MC1of80

Glad to hear it's better. I would still disconnect the vacuum advance and try it before doing a compression check. You could be that far advanced. Plus, it's easier. Lolol

Lol I have one and a convertible version also.

Welcome! I'm sure someone has something. Any pictures? We all love pictures!!!

I personally wouldn't use the car dolly. Rent a u-haul trailer at least. With the way people drive now a days I would want at least a trailer of some sorts to try and protect my investment or I would just drive it there. My .02

My vote is for the 15s. I'm more old school. Lol

Definitely looks like a true 1971 SS Monte Carlo built at the Baltimore plant would have the BF on the trim tag. whatcha'll think?

The pic of my red 70 SS, the tank is black and it's a flint built car.

No

The dual snorkel air cleaner on the blue 71 SS is from a Pontiac GTO. The one on the red 70 SS is from a 70s Camaro.

Have the M&H engine and front lamp harness in my 70 SS. Fit great and correct connectors.

Willie, no wires. It runs off of engine vacuum.

I have seen both. Mine is black.

Here is a pic of my 70 SS.

Hey Willie. The 350 harness should work. I have converted small block cars to big blocks and used the small block harness. Only thing is if it's a gauge car or an idiot light car. The engine harness must match whichever the dash is.

Disconnect the vacuum advance and drive the car. See if that makes a difference. I bet it does at idle when you rev it up. Most likely won't "pop" out of the secondaries.

Do you have a timing light with a dial? Or digital? What is the timing at at idle with it hooked up? 35? 45? 55 degrees or more?

Do you still have the vacuum pump you mentioned? A vacuum can usually is good for 2-3 pumps of the pedal before you get a hard pedal. How are the rubber brake hoses? With age and today's brake fluid the rubber hoses tend to close up internally. I have a comp cams vacuum pump on my 70 SS with a 496 and dual diaphragm 9" booster. No hard brake pedal ever. Some noise with the pump running but the 496 drowns it out. Lolol

Ported vacuum is a vacuum port that has almost no vacuum at idle and increases in vacuum as the idle goes up as compared to constant strong vacuum port. 5 and 7 is a very easy mix up. The "popping" coming from the carb when racing up the engine concerns me. Sounds like a worn lobe on the camshaft. With a timing light hooked up and the vacuum advanced hooked up also, what is the timing at idle?

oil pan kits are sold to fit the chassis without cutting the cross member. Also kits are sold to relocate the a/c compressor.

Still needs ported vacuum. Not direct. With the carb rebuilt it probably works much better. The issue may have not been as noticable with the worn carb. 5 and 7 plug wires in correct locations?

Aaron, at no time should you have constant vacuum going to the distributor. If that's how you run it, the engine is constantly running too far advanced. All vacuum advance distributors should be to PORTED vacuum. Otherwise just disconnect and plug the vacuum line and power time the car and leave it alone. You will have less timing than if you run constant vacuum to the distributor. Also, silly question? Did you adjust the valves or have the spark plugs wires off and maybe 5 and 7 crossed? The popping out of the carb is not normal or good. Either 5 and 7 are crossed or possibly a cam lobe is rounding out. Hopefully 5 and 7 are crossed.

Aaron, check the choke pull off. You state when warmed up the idle is high without the idle screw touching. That has nothing to do with timing. The choke is still on. If the choke is still on when warmed up, the secondary air flaps will not open causing the condition you recently experienced. An over rich condition. Sounds like choke adjustment when warmed up which can also cause your rough cold start.

I know the feeling. Lol "Barn Find" was off the road since 1985.

Ummmm, could convert to a pertronix electronic ignition or other manufacturer that retains the original housing, rotor and cap but is electronic (no adjustments) as opposed to the factory points. Here is a picture of "bard find" with the pertronix conversion, including coil and wires.

Floor shift or column shift? Any GM A-body steering column will interchange. You may need to change out the directional stalk and the column shifter depending on what donor car you get it from. Just letting those who may not know, what will work. Doesn't have to be Monte Carlo specific.