Rancid87

Looking good! I have been working on control arms, spindles, calipers, and all the small items i can take apart and refurbish. Would like to get the frame cleaned up and painted this month but weather hasn't been that cooperative on the days I have off.

I should have told you about the discount after I bought the fuel lines! Lesson learned! I set an alert on their site to notify me next time they are available.

I placed an order for brake lines and wanted the fuel lines but the 3/8 fuel line is out of stock now! I ended up buying trans cooler lines instead!

If you buy before the end of the year they are 25% off at Inline so now would be the time to buy them! I am looking to buy brake and fuel lines also.

If you didn't tighten the distributor hold down enough the distributor could have moved. I'd get it running again and adjust the timing.

You would need to make sure the foam is compatible with ethanol/E85. Foam used with gasoline will deteriorate in ethanol blended fuels.

Looking good. What kind of wire are you using for your welding?

The car would still run if the 12 volt starting, resistance wire, and capacitor were connected to the negative and the distributor wire was connected to the positive. It probably just wouldn't run as good as it does when connected the way it was designed. Is your car not starting now?

The R terminal on the solenoid is correct. That terminal will give the coil 12 volts during cranking.

The wire from the distributor goes to the negative side of the coil.

Do you have a coil capacitor on your coil bracket? That wire would go to the + side along with the resistance wire from the harness(probably crimped to a yellow wire).

The 0-90 ohm sending unit is the one you would want to work with the original gauge.

Nice car! I have a 4 speed and bench in Chevelle and love it!

I agree with Antoine. Just clean up the rust and reassemble.

Mine has a tan wire instead of pink/black and the black connector looks slightly different but its a 72.

I have found it depends on the particular panel. Sometime AMD is the way to go, other times Dynacorn is better.

Nice looking project! That old mountain dew can is pretty cool too!

I've used Sierra brand in the past and it worked just fine.

Those are fairly heavy gauge steel so you should be able to clean yours up and reuse them. I ended up removing mine and blasted them and then welded them back in place on top of the new section of floor. AZChev is a good guy so if you guy from him you will get good service!

I think that is just called the under seat panel. I replaced the one on my car and I used a Dynacorn panel. Google GMK4032511681S. Thats the Goodmark part number so you see what it looks like.

Good video! I watched the one showing where you trimmed also. I'm about to put a roof skin on mine in the upcoming weeks so this helps! Thanks!

The rain gutter/drip rail (part with the molding on it) is spot welded to that panel and it should be flush up against that piece. The quarter panel fits into that that rail Aside from maybe a smear of seam sealer there is nothing that should fill that entire area. It looks like it probably rotted and began to separate. I've attached a picture of what that area looks like without the quarter installed.

C-clip eliminator kits are generally bolt on items. Converting to something like a Ford 9" housing end requires welding and is probably the better way to go.

That is really neat and it looks like a great way to access the underside of the car. Nice job!

He probably used a brake switch that has two sets of contacts. One for the brake lights and the other would go to the tcc.