Scott S.

Are you to the point of welding the doors shut, painting a big Union Jack on the roof, and becoming the Duke of Summerland ????

Sorry, I listed clearance issues with the th400, should have been 700r4..... As well as the 700r4 can take more hp.

Hi Thomas, The th400 has a 32 spline output shaft whereas the th350, 200r4, and 700r4 all have 27 splines.... so you'll have to change the transmission end of your driveshaft no matter which one you choose. The 200r4, which is the one I went with, is pretty much a bolt in, excepting for moving the cross member back. (350 cid/th350) and trimming the balance weight at the transmission end. The th400 cross member is different and the transmission is a couple inches longer, so you will have to find/build a new driveshaft. I've also read that there's minor clearance issues using the th400. Personally, I like the 200r4 for the wider gear ratios (0.67 to 1 overdrive and 2.67 to 1 first gear) for highway driving. But if you choose the 200r4, make sure you get it rebuilt with heavy duty internals..... 400 hp is a lot for the original "off the shelf" units where as the th400 could take that kind of hp. As for the rear gears, 3.55 should make a nice street/highway combination.... Montelishi originally had 2.73's, which are really nice on the open road, but a little lagging at the stoplight. I eventually went to the 3.42's. Still a little slow at the light, but I've pulled around 20 mpg on the highway with them. There are a few threads here that discuss who likes which better, I'm sure more will weigh in eventually. Good Luck with your swap, Scott.

Catches on the jab, or on the front quarter panel ?

They forgot the furry interior.........

The "goop" is an early method of anti-vibration tech.... If they gooped the bolt, it wouldn't loosen, and things wouldn't fall out of adjustment. Cheaper and easier than a lock nut/washer.

My Aunt had a '70 back in those days....(the reason I fell for M.C.'s) It was a base model, and she was willing to sell it to me for $800.00 Can. All it needed was a new distributor cap and a good cleaning...... But as I was under 18 and still living at home, Dad nixed that idea..... Probably a good thing.

Paul, If you're talking about the window felts, a magnetized #2 Philips (cross) screwdriver will reach the screws on the doors fairly easily.... As for the rear side windows, it's easier to remove the interior panels and have the windows rolled down to reach the screws. If your hands are small enough, you may be able to reach in through the vent panels on the door jabs...... Just a thought, Scott.

Cragar Keystones always stood out on a classic...

When I switched from the 8.2" 10 bolt to the 12 bolt I had clearance issues on the driver's side. Found this that explains it.

The brake light wire is an independent circuit that runs from the fuse box, through the brake switch, and out to the tail light. Grounding at the frame. Most likely the yellow wire has failed. Or it could be a switch gone bad. (dirt/corrosion in the contacts.) Easiest way to test is to take a jumper across the two contacts on the switch. If the brake lights work, it's the switch, if not, it's a broken wire. Good luck ! Scott.

There's always the option of wandering around at the local auto wreckers and seeing if there's anything.....

I've seen something like those used for holding brake lines under older cars...... But they might be to big as well.

If it returns, you may want to try a little flat washer between the linkage end and the spring clip on the pin...... Fills the extra space stopping the linkage end from flopping around.

Yeah, batteries can be like that..... One day all's fine, and then poof.... no amps. They'll still read 12 volts, but the actual cranking amps won't even engage the starter and still all the light work. I'm not sure if those testers are built to test amp load all that well. I'm sure there are high end ones that do, but they ain't cheap. There is a whole conversation on the site as to which battery is the best...... I personally like the Interstate one I got this spring. Noticed a big improvement over the one it replaced. (it was at least 4 years old) Good luck.

Battery cable ends/ worn battery posts ? Montelishi had cheap loose clamps that lost contact when warm.... Found that if I twisted them they would re connect and I could get power. Replaced them fairly quickly after that. And the battery as well.

If I remember right, the back up light wire is a "light green"..... And runs from ignition power to the smaller contact switch, and then out to the rear bumper. Looks like a smaller version of the NSS, which is purple. And thicker.

Don, Is the wiring original ? It could be that the wire itself has deteriorated and can no longer carry the current. Might want to think about replacing/upgrading the wiring...... Just a thought. Scott.

I know that feeling.... Like the smell you get right after changing the oil. Did I miss something ? Is there a leak I didn't see ? How much did I spill on the headers ?? Stuff like that........... When I replaced the bulbs, I went with the LED ones, makes a nice difference. Scott.

I found Dorman has some good items, but others are hit and miss.

I have the same "large finger/dexterity" issue.... lol When Montelishi first arrived, there were several electrical issues...... So I wound up pulling the front seat to make access more comfortable. I spent the better part of 3 days tracing and re wiring what was under there. And as long as I was down there, I figured changing all the bulbs couldn't hurt. Luckily, I don't have anywhere near the options you've got, or I'd probably be bald by now. You'll eventually get around to figuring it out..... Scott.

With all the reproduction parts available these days, re chroming became to expensive unless you were REALLY attached to your original wheels. Even powder coating has one thinking twice about restoring vs. repro....... I've still got my '86 T-Type wheels and to get them redone is at least $600.00 !! Not to mention that the center caps are now listing for over $100.00 each.... Who knew that things like this would go up in value so much ???

As discussed in another post, if you pull the top dash pad, reaching the gauge lights is fairly easy. It's held in by about a half dozen screws along the top of the dash and simply clips into the front along the windshield. Scott.

I did see one a few years ago on a used car site when I first started looking for my car. It was really rough and I wasn't sure it was original paint..... It was also a '70.

Another thought is the 4 way hazard knob.... I had a similar issue with the turn signals activating while driving, and found that if I pulled the knob out to the "off" position, it would stop. Or sometimes it would self correct if I turned the wheel. The little tab in the switch could be worn out and the thing might just be dropping into contact randomly. Just a guess.... Scott.