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Now that they are making upgraded parts for the 2004R it is a better choice.

 

Everyone was building 700's for a long time bc of the really low 1st gear it was the girst OD tranny to get Ftermarket upgrades available. Problem is with a big block there is no need for such a low first gear due to low end torque. Another problem is you hit second gear very hard and many BB were blowing second gear.

 

Now that upgrades available for 2004R it is a better choice. The gear split is similar to a T400 with a 2:75 lower gear set. Lower first gear than standard T400 but not as drastic as a 700.

 

Honestly the best/strongest option is to build you T 400 with 2:75 lower gear set and add a gear vendors overdrive. You'll have a Bullit proof tranny with OD. Likely similar in cost to a 2004r, lock up converter and cable. Plus you can set it up to dump into overdrive automTically or gear split manually for 1st -1st over-2nd-2nd over 3rd and overdrive.

 

My two cents

Dan

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Hey Dan....I went for a ride in a customer of Pete's car. The gear vendors knocked the rpm down by 500 rpm. It did not seem worth it for the money. I think the hot ticket for built motors is the ford a08 trans.

 

Now that they are making upgraded parts for the 2004R it is a better choice.

 

Everyone was building 700's for a long time bc of the really low 1st gear it was the girst OD tranny to get Ftermarket upgrades available. Problem is with a big block there is no need for such a low first gear due to low end torque. Another problem is you hit second gear very hard and many BB were blowing second gear.

 

Now that upgrades available for 2004R it is a better choice. The gear split is similar to a T400 with a 2:75 lower gear set. Lower first gear than standard T400 but not as drastic as a 700.

 

Honestly the best/strongest option is to build you T 400 with 2:75 lower gear set and add a gear vendors overdrive. You'll have a Bullit proof tranny with OD. Likely similar in cost to a 2004r, lock up converter and cable. Plus you can set it up to dump into overdrive automTically or gear split manually for 1st -1st over-2nd-2nd over 3rd and overdrive.

 

My two cents

Dan

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Hey Dan....I went for a ride in a customer of Pete's car. The gear vendors knocked the rpm down by 500 rpm. It did not seem worth it for the money. I think the hot ticket for built motors is the ford a08 trans.

 

I believe you meant Ford AOD? Right?

Scott has that in his 10.5 sec 1969 Camaro ……. but it cost him $5000 for tranny. Bellhousing to convert to GM mount etc. I agree behind a high hp Big Block the Ford AOD is the only OD tranny that can be built to real high HP standards.

 

Bobs car is bone stock with 3:73's and has had new Turbo 400 installed recently that is working fine with a mild 2000 rpm stall converter. Based on the Gear Vendors website in final drive ratio with OD engaged it will make his car feel like he has 2:91 rear gears. Seems low enough for me? I have never driven in a car with a Gear Vendors and have only read up on them. Guess the best recommendation is to call them.

 

Only thing I can think of is the Gregs guy had a high stall converter that may have been slipping at the lower rpm the OD provided. Therefore based on tachometer showed only 500rpm benefit. Who knows?

 

 

Dan

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Hey guys, I run 402 CI BB, a TH400 stock tranny with 331:1 ratio rear axle and interested in getting the RPMS down on the highway.

What recommendations would you suggest?

Replace TH400 with (??) or look into re-gearing my TH400.

 

I don't race it and motor has a mild Cam. On the highway I am hitting about 3200 RPM at around 60/65 miles per hour. Just not comfortable running higher RPMs for extended period of time and wouldn't mind getting up to 70 MPH without stressing the engine.

Not attempting to steal this thread, but looked like a good place to pose this question.

 

Thanx and all have a GREAT day.....

 

Doug

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Yes Sam. It is a 331:1 Ratio Posi rear axle. If I get into the 70 miles per hour, I'm nearing the 4000 RPM range. My understanding is Big Blocks don't like to run for extended periods at those RPMs. I don't have any overheating issues anymore since going with a Aluminum radiator. Just investigating re-gearing (if possible) the TH400 or more practical to replace and what other makes most sense.

 

Doug

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using Wallace racing calculators, your RPM at 70 mph with a 27" tall tire should be 2883 RPM's and give some slippage with the torque converter around 3000 RPM's

 

my 3.73 w/ 27" tire at 70 comes to 3249 rpm's, and I have a 3000 stall converter so 3500 rpm's puts me in the ballpark

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Keeping in mind I dont have over drive, sounds like I have some investigating to do here. Will verify Tach RPM is accurate. As far as speedo, I did a highway check this past summer and determined speedometer was off by approx. .1 miles per every mile driven. Basically speedometer is turning faster than actually driven. Hmm, think I need to figure out exactly what the speed is as well in order to compare with RPM reading as a starting point.

Last year I replaced 15" tires that on rear were (if I remember correctly) 29" tall with 16" BF Goodrich T/A Radials and knew this would upset the MPH reading. But even so, the RPM result had no significant change.

Okay, need more info! Once I have better confirmed data, then I can explore a solution.

 

Thanx guys. Your suggestions/opinions have broadened my scope of possible problems/solutions.

News at 11:00 smile

 

Doug

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Sam, they are 245/60-15R X4. The tire dia. is 26.60" and tread width of 8".

 

My previous tire dia. was 235-15R (if I am remembering correctly) on the rears & 225-15R fronts. I had measured the dia. of the rears at 29" and change. The dia. difference reduced tire dia. when replaced by around 1". The replaced fronts were equivalent in dia. with the T/A radials replaced with.

Prior to purchasing the T/A radials, I did evaluate specs of each and this is what I remember. I hadn't retained that info so taking it from memory.

When the weather breaks, am taking it to the shop and checking Tach calibration. I know the miles driven are exaggerated since replacing tires. Tranny was rebuilt and a different driven gear used to calibrate with engine, rear axle and tires and was pretty accurate with previous tires. I think I should also compare with what original tire specs were just to see how much of a difference there was vs. now.

What would be a safe extended RPM for the BB on highway trips? This has always concerned me since the entire drivetrain had been replaced. I have run her up to 70 / 75 MPH for short periods but always laid back to 60 / 65 MPH ensuring I'm not over taxing the motor.

I believe around 2900 RPM at 60 MPH now. I had hit around 4500 RPM a couple years ago and remember it was around 80 / 85 MPH.

The engine has never over heated since replacing the Radiator so am not concerned there. Although at extended periods of 65+ MPH, the tranny temp jumps from average 200 degree's to 250 degree's especially when pulling hills. Engine oil pressure about 28 lbs. at idle when warm and around 45 lbs. pressure at 65 MPH.

Okay, got a little carried away there as we're talking Tire specs.

 

Doug

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Doug I think someone changed the rear gears. using the calculators Dab posted it shows our rear gears being 3.90 that's running at 65mph at 3200RPM with your 26.60 tires. I know with the 700r4 behind my big block and the 2.73 we run 1900RPM at 60mph with 26" tires.

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Positive on the axle ratio Sam. At least 4 years ago I bought a 402 CI engine that turned out to be a package deal. Included a complete rear axle that supposedly came from a parted out 72 Monte. Once I got this lot home and sorted through it, I realized it was a 12 Bolt axle. Had the 10 bolt 273:1 axle in my car at the time. Decided I wanted the 12 bolt but needed to know what gearing it was. Decided to rebuild it anyway so opened it up discovering it was also a Posi. To make a long story short, it ended up being from a GM 1967 Model year that had 1" shorter tubes than the better axles I selected to use. Had another 12 Bolt that I had taken the axles from that ended up being the one rebuilt and installed. It was during the swap/rebuild that I discovered it to be a 331:1 ratio. Posi unit taken from the 67 12 Bolt and put into the 69 12 Bolt unit now in my car.

In retrospect, I should have rebuilt the 67 as it being for the Chevelle. Would have fetched a pretty penny with cash left over after rebuilding the 69. However, did sell the 67 housing that defrayed the cost of rebuild.

So yes, am sure of the gear ratio. Did the math when unit was opened up. smile

Because the numbers don't seem to align with your guys experiences, I will focus on the Tach at this point to determine if it is reading properly. If so, will confirm tach reading on the highway at speed(s) before I proceed further.

 

Doug

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Well anyone watching my orginal post, I have a tip for you, I sent a spare carb base to a company Carb Junkys Atlanta GA & they are rebuilding the base bushing etc but updating the throttle arm to a mid 80S Monte SS so I will have the proper hook-up for the TV cable, No micky mouse adapters will look stock rebuilt/replated correct arm $75. Later Bob PS ordered a Monster Tranny

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