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bought my "Coca-Cola Red" and "Sport Gold Metallic" paint today!


Kevin Wiles

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Well folks the good ol tax refund came in so I decided to go buy my paint, seeing as the Coke Machine is dangerously close to being ready for it.

 

So heres what I got: Limco brand Urethane Basecoat 2 qts of red/ 1qt+1pt of gold, and one gallon of urethane clear. (the red was sampled up to the door jamb of an actual 1960s/70's coke VENDING machine, the gold was just something I picked out, its a 99 pontiac trans-am color.

 

I had used RM Diamont on my black cherry 70 monte and was happy with the results but this time I decided to use Limco because its less expen$ive. and believe me red paint can be expensive (in fact in my case I could buy 2 quarts of gold for just about the same price as 1 quart of red) I've used Limco before with great results too. Limco and Diamont are both made by BASF.

 

I have been block sanding for what seems like ages, and there is plenty more to do, but its all coming together and will be painted soon. Not soon like 2 weeks from now but soon.

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Limco really isnt a bad product Kevin, Ive used it for the less expensive jobs in the shop, it is definately less than the Diamont, and red will kill you!! Nice choice, should last quite a while. Did you get any type of sealer for under the base yet? If so, what did you get?

Tony

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Well its coming together. Glad you was able to buy the paint Kevin.

 

Guess I need to get out there next oppurtunity and help you do some sanding, keep saying that, just busy... smile

 

Maybe Saturday....if something else don't come up. frown

 

Jared

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Tony, as for what is under the basecoat:

I have stripped to bare metal and used RM's Metal conditioner, then RM's Epoxy Undercoat Primer. On top of that I have Limco's 700K High Build Primer.

 

Jared, hope you can make it, Saturday is fine. We only leave the house on Saturday to go to the inlaws at about 5:30 for supper. Anyway, I might even do some more priming (if weather allows) and of course sanding that day.

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rob, it WILL be ready for indy, i've just gotta figure out how to get it there. don't really want to drive the beast that far, only has 2 seats and i want my wife and daughter to come with me... my dad has a big truck and trailer right now but who knows they might be sold by the time indy comes around... i'll find a way though.

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rob, it WILL be ready for indy, i've just gotta figure out how to get it there. don't really want to drive the beast that far, only has 2 seats and i want my wife and daughter to come with me... my dad has a big truck and trailer right now but who knows they might be sold by the time indy comes around... i'll find a way though.

You drive the Monte and wife and daughter get to ride the HHR pace car... laughlaugh
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Kevin, I would recommend some sort of sealer overtop of the primer before basecoat. It acts as an adhesion promoter, and seals minor sandscratches in the primer. I think Aaron(Mccall72) had a problem with scratches visible through the basecoat. This will especially be noticable in the gold color. Talk to the jobber you got the paint from and see what they recommend. Diamont DS30 is a good choice, its a transparent sealer with very good adhesion to the primer. Its not very expensive and considering what it would cost to repaint it, its money well spent. There is also an epoxy sealer that works very well too.PM me if you want and Ill help in any way I can. Glad its coming along well and I cant wait to see it in person.

Tony

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Kevin, I would recommend some sort of sealer overtop of the primer before basecoat. It acts as an adhesion promoter, and seals minor sandscratches in the primer. I think Aaron(Mccall72) had a problem with scratches visible through the basecoat. This will especially be noticable in the gold color. Talk to the jobber you got the paint from and see what they recommend. Diamont DS30 is a good choice, its a transparent sealer with very good adhesion to the primer. Its not very expensive and considering what it would cost to repaint it, its money well spent. There is also an epoxy sealer that works very well too.PM me if you want and Ill help in any way I can. Glad its coming along well and I cant wait to see it in person.

Tony

Quoted for Truth! Go ahead and go the extra mile and go with the DS30. You don't wanna have to do it twice like I did. frown

Also, for your final sanding, I wouldn't go with anything courser than a 800-1000 grit sand paper for the gold parts. Those metallics are very transparent.

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I'm afraid to spray sealer because it does not allow sanding.. for instance, what if i spray the sealer and it goes on uneven or runs or orangepeels?? hey some additional sealer info:

 

 

When do you use a sealer?

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Bob Williams

Houston, TX

 

 

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it depends on what you're trying to seal.

 

 

Phil V

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In most cases you seal to stop your topcoats from being absorbed by the substrate. The more porous the substrate the more important it is to seal it.

 

 

Len

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The only reason i seal is to make a uniform base color for my basecoat on new parts.Then depending on the color,i might or might not use sealer,because some colors,metalics esp,light blue,pewter,silver etc..sealer will help fill a courser sand scratch.But like today,i sanded a new hood with 320,and put my base right on top iof it,of course it was white.

 

 

Chris L

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Len, could you please elaborate. I have on my car now a 2K primer, apllied 2 thick coats and have blocked with 320 and 600. I am preparing to apply a gold metallic bc/cc. Is a 2K primer porous?, should I apply a sealer?, would a sealer help with adhesion?, for a first timer would it give better results? would the sealer provide better long term durability? or am I just adding an unnecessary step?

1 more question, do I apply bc/cc to the roof? even though I am putting on vinyl?

Thanks for all your help, this is a really helpful board.

 

 

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If the entire car is covered with 2K primer then sealing it isn't going to make the color any more consistant but it can help make the surface less porous. Some 2K primers are more porous than others and the difference between sealing or not sealing is like the difference between painting on cardboard or painting on glass, one will absorb the coating and one will not. The safe answer is "yes" seal it but it's not always absolutely necessary and, in many cases, I would rather not add the extra film build. So using sealer will depend on the characteristics of the 2K you're using and the stability of the primer, sealer, color and clear. When I'm afraid or uncertain of the absorbtion rate of my substrate I seal my paint work.

 

 

Len

 

 

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I agree with Len here but I'll go further to say that I've never felt the need to apply any form of a sealer over perfectly good 2K primer. In my opinion, it only adds to the millage buildup and reduces the overall durability of the final product. I only reserve it for small areas where I accidentally sanded through to bare metal or filler in which case it is very useful just before topcoating.

 

 

Jon E

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Len and Jon E. The entire car is covered with the 2K primer so I will not use sealer as the surface is uniform. FYI, I have used RM products, first the Epoxy then the 2K (DP 20) and will continue with the RM line with their bc/cc.

Thanks again, Tempest

 

 

 

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Metallic colors, high metallics especially are very sensitive to showing sand scratches. If you don't plan on using sealer, make sure you've removed all of your 320 sand scratches with the 600.

 

 

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Thanks for the tip Hurst. I sprayed a black 'guide coat' over the grey primer down both sides, and after wetsanding with 600, the black almost completely dissappeared. I've never painted before but I think I'm getting close. From all that I have read, I think the clear is the most difficult part, But I figure if I put on 3-4 coats, that should give me enough to work with to fix the problem areas. Thanks again.

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Sounds like you have compiled some good info. If you're not confident in spraying a sealer then I think if you just stick to a very very fine sandpaper you should be okay. Good luck with it, and of course take some pics! Hope to see it at the Auto Fair at Lowes Speedway one day soon!

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RM has a product (EP689) its a epoxy sealer, that can be sanded if youd like before you spray basecoat, also, with DS30 you can sand the basecoat after it flashes off. Any basecoat can be sanded as long as you put another coat or two back over it to even out the metallic. The EP product provides excellent protection against sand scratches also. Whatever you decide to do, you will probably be ok, Im just giving my opinion as to what I would do. Not saying that I am the know it all, Im just telling you what I would do, and what I do on a daily basis. Good luck with the car Kevin, Im sure itll turn out great

Tony

Actually reading that section again Kevin, it sounds like Len agrees that sealer would be best. I am not saying its necesarry, just an added safety measure.

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