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Adding a fuse block


MC-71

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Any recommendations on adding a fuse block? I want 3 Battery terminals and 3 accessory terminals . I think I need a relay for the accessory’s.

not sure of the amps for the relay. I think 30amps should work. Any info would help.

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Look below. Maybe something Andrew shows in the posts can steer you in a direction, or adapt to your needs. He's very sharp, & meticulous as well.

https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?47957-Wiring-considerations-for-Holley-EFI-systems/page3&highlight=fuse

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I did something similar to what you're looking to do.

Simply took a connector box and linked one side to the leads in the main fuse box, (4 to batt., 4 to Ign.)

and mounted it on the firewall below the box. That way I can link fused wires to which ever supply I need. 

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I mount an auxiliary block behind the kick panel inside the drivers door. hardly noticeable unless you are looking for it 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/15/2022 at 6:13 PM, jft69z said:

Look below. Maybe something Andrew shows in the posts can steer you in a direction, or adapt to your needs. He's very sharp, & meticulous as well.

https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?47957-Wiring-considerations-for-Holley-EFI-systems/page3&highlight=fuse

The link errored out for me 🙃

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1 hour ago, DragCat said:

The link errored out for me 🙃

Looks like the Holley site is down. I'll check it again later.

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My '70 4-speed was very low optioned from the factory.  When I added power windows, locks and seatback releases, I used a simple 6-port ATC fused expansion panel mounted under the dash above my left knee.  I powered it from a dedicated power wire through the firewall direct to the battery connected via a 3-port "C" plate behind the positive terminal (see pics).  I did not need to go through the IGN circuit because the factory power windows have their own relay, the locks need direct power to work with my keyless entry system and the seat back releases operate off of the door pin switches.  It was simple and cheap but it did what I needed and works well.

Not sure why the photos always load in reverse order - guess I need to learn to think backwards!

 

697.JPG

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6 hours ago, cbolt said:

Where did you get that 3 port C plate Dennis?

NAPA Part #: NW 785124 is a kit with two plates and other connectors for $9.99 at https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_785124?impressionRank=21 Their name is "Battery Cable End Taps Frame Ground Tap / Side Mount Terminal Tap". 

When I got mine (also at NAPA) several years ago, it was a single part in a small package but I don't see that listed at NAPA online.  You can get a single plate on eBay for $5 at https://www.ebay.com/itm/221733809403?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=d9a259c3e966123d78af3ac9272a23a6

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Thanks Dennis for all that information. I’m going to post pictures to what I bought. My question is do I need to come off my battery? My Monte is highly optioned and have 2 -30 amp fuses on my fire wall. One is for AC and the other is for my power options, PW PDL and Power Seat. Can I tap off or the AC one to the new added fuse block. Let me know what you think.

 

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12 hours ago, MC-71 said:

Thanks Dennis for all that information. I’m going to post pictures to what I bought. My question is do I need to come off my battery? My Monte is highly optioned and have 2 -30 amp fuses on my fire wall. One is for AC and the other is for my power options, PW PDL and Power Seat. Can I tap off or the AC one to the new added fuse block. Let me know what you think.

 

Carl, your original post said you wanted 3 battery terminals and 3 accessory terminals but I don't know what kind of loads you plan to run off of them.  I assume you will want to have each additional terminal properly fused for whatever you are powering through it. 

Tapping off of either of your current 30 A fused ports sounds like daisy chaining to me.  That could possibly work but I would wonder about combined load on the original port if several of your additional devices were drawing power simultaneously.  I guess you could try it and later wire it direct to your battery if you start blowing 30 A fuses.  What sort of additional devices do you want to power?  You should only need a relay if you want the power to be accessible only when your ignition is on.

If you do run a direct line to your battery, be sure to use an adequate gauge of wire (i.e. #10 AWG for 30 A DC) to carry your highest fused terminal or highest combined amperage for simultaneous loads, which ever is greater.

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