70 Iron Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I replaced the MC,Booster, Porportion valve and front lines in the latest Monte today.I bench bleed the MC before mounting it.I bought a hand held vacumn pump so I can do it without help because I lost my helper (wife) about a yr ago to "C".I was reading the manual about using the pump and it says to start with the CLOSEST wheel to the MC and work away.I have always bleed from the far rear and worked to the MC. Does this sound correct for using a vac pump or could the manual be misprinted ? Its all back together but didn't have time to start bleeding,plan to do that tomorrow.I would like to have pic to show ya but need some help trying to figure things out.I did join photo bucket and car domain so I did get that far. I may ask Tony to help an ole guy out :-). Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chevyss Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I always start at the right rear. Works for me. I use a kit that fits over the M/C and applys a small amount of pressure to the M/C. It makes it easier for one person. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nygel Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 For as long as I can remember, it has always been start at the farthest and work your way to the closest. Â Â Nygel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7tonemonte Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 You can always send pics to me Terry. I use my cardomain site for alot of pics then post them up here. I always started furthest point also. I actually just gravity bled mine when I first did all the lines and such. Send me some pics, I need to load some of my motor cleanup anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 When you are pumping the pedal to bleed the brakes, they want you to remove the air from the longest line first. The idea is that right away you can remove most of the air in the system and start getting a firmer pedal to make the rest go much easier. When it comes down to it, you can do it in any order you want. I'm not sure what their thinking is with your vacuum instructions. If you open a bleeder and use some patience, the fluid will start to drain out all by itself without any help. I always do that at all 4 corners just to get the system primed: then you can bleed as normal. Â Let us know how that vacuum bleeder works out...I've never used one and it seems to me that it would pull air from around the bleeder threads? Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rothe Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I have a vacuum pump and never had good luck using it to bleed brakes. The best method I have found for bleeding brakes by myself is by using speed bleeders. I have the Russell brand and would highly recommend them. Below is a link to the Russell speed bleeders on the Jegs website if you are interested. If I remember correctly you need 2 different sizes because the threads on the front are different then the threads on the back. Â http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/639590/10002/-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Like everyone else, I had always hear start with the wheel the farthest from the Master Cylinder and work your way to the nearest. That is the way I have always done it. Rob   Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I'm with everbody else here starting at the furthest working my way to the closet...but then again I never used a vacuum pump so I don't know how it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsmc Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 vacuum bleeders do not work well till the fluid is at the bleeder. gravity bleed it first then try the vacuum im with everyone else farthest first. good luck! bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 Iron Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 I'm allowing it to gravity feed this morning but need to visit the kids today so I'll try bleeding the system tomorrow. The vacumn bleeder is kind of alkward to use , the hoses are so stiff it makes it hard to keep the fitting on the bleeder and also keeping the cup sitting up.The manual says to pump it about 8-10 times and then open the bleeder and do this until the air is gone.It also says about the air around the threads and that they will be very small bubbles and not as large as the air coming from the lines and if you want you may put grease on them to stop the air. I looked at the solo bleeders from Jegs and would like to try a set ,any idea what size they are,front and rear ?I can call them and get the size tomorrow. Another thing is about the porportion valve on a 70 the one that has the button on the back thats up near the MC,Do you need to depress it while bleeding? Thanks all,will update the progress tomorrow :-). Royce,where did you get your bleeding tool and about how much are they ? I may invest in one of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I have the same one, it works pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 Iron Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 I finally got back on the Monte to do the bleeding today.All went well and I did start from the right rear and worked forward like always and not by the vac pump manual :-).The pump did work fine and it really pulls the fluid thru quickly .It is a little messy because if you don't hold your finger over the hose that you remove from the bleeder it will drip on the floor and on you.But overall it did work good and fast pulling.You really need to keep an eye on the resovoir more because you can empty the small one in the rear of the master cyl quickly with the volumn of the hose.Ask me how I know :-). Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Just curious, are you using DOT 3 or DOT 5 silicone brake fluid? Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 Iron Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 I used Dot 3 syntheic for now.I will be changing the front to rear line and the lines to the cylinders and rear cylinders sometime later.I replaced all the front lines when i did the booster and MC.There was alot of rusty fluid coming from the remainding lines when I was bleeding them.I will however use silicone when I get the new parts on.I have it but didn't want to waste it on this system yet.I did my other monte the same way. Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I replaced the original ft hoses several years ago, after having silicone fluid it the system for about 14 years and it was so clean I was amazed. Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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