Jump to content

Strippers


black07ss

Recommended Posts

It's not what you were thinking so get your minds out of the gutter. LOL. I was wondering your input on paint strippers. I want to get the car down to metal. Sanding all the paint seems very messy. I was thinking of stripping first and then hitting it with a DA. You all have nice cars what worked the best for you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember helping strip my Dad's Vette when I was a kid. Very messy job. I think sanding to the bare metal would be very time consuming.

 

To sum it up... Strippers are dirty... very dirty

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No matter what it is going to be messy. I figured with a stripper it would clean up a little easier. only the floor to clean. With sanding it will be over everything. I could build a screen around the car though out of plastic and that would keep all the dust off the shelves

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember helping strip my Dad's Vette when I was a kid. Very messy job. I think sanding to the bare metal would be very time consuming.

 

To sum it up... Strippers are dirty... very dirty

 

well not all of 'em, just the ones on 3rd street..... cool

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's what happens: You start glopping paint remover onto your car, and it tries to run downhill...it's a bad thing to brush it around because it doesn't work if you disturb it. If it doesn't either dry out or have zero effect, it begins to turn the paint into a gummy mush and krinkle the surface. Now you decide it has done about all it's going to do and you use a putty knife to scrape off the gummy mush that burns your skin, and realize the remover isn't having any effect on the primer underneath. Start the process over as you try to keep the mush from destroying your shoes, and it still has no effect on the primer.

 

In the end you have to do some sanding, but now the paint is soft and destroys your sandpaper.

 

Anyone who has done this...go ahead and tell me I'm wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are not wrong! I used the aircraft stripper on the hood of our 71, with the hood off. It worked well. I had plastic under it to catch the mess. Rinsed it well with water while using a red scotch brite pad. Like you said, it wouldn't affect the original primer! How can that be? I had to DA sand the primer off, but I still think it was better than sanding all of it off. Just make sure you rinse very well to get rid of all the stripper. It can ruin new paint, if you don't get it all off. I didn't use it anywhere else on that car, but I might use it for any panels that are removed from the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know Mark but they used aircraft stripper on ours and it seemed to work pretty good....it will not go through the E coat though because that is not paint....

 

100_3832.jpg

 

100_3833.jpg

 

100_3835.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can use stripper without problems. I used it on a car that had three paint jobs. needless to say it would have been a lot of sanding. The trick is to do small areas 2 foot square at the most. Let it sit and take off with a dull putty knife dont scrape just use it to remove the loose stuff. Clean off each area as you strip the paint then wash. Stripper is just to remove about 80 to 90 percent. After you wash it You then have to use a 8o grit to bear metal. Wash again and then etch the metal with metal cleaner. let dry wipe down with wax remover let dry again. Prime with metal etch primer before it rusts. Watch out for the fumes and wear gloves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used different brands of strippers on the Monte before it was repainted. Depending on the paint some strippers wont do anything. Sanding does take alot of time, but it gives you a feel on how many colors is on the car. The aircraft stripper has no smell. After the stripper has been used 60 to 80 grit on a plam sander or a d/a will knock off any paint that remains. Don't use anything less then 60 grit other wise you will have straches in the metal. The tail light extenstion you will have to hand sand to get all the paint off of it, again same grit as before 60/80 grit.

Once all the paint if removed take a metal file to any areas that have dents. If there are dents you might be able to get to them and beat them out using a hamer and dolly. Start on the outside of the dent and work your way into the center of it. If you can get your hands on a stud gun you can weld little studs to the metal and use a slide hammer to pull them out as well. The stud gun will put heat onto the panel so space out the studs so you dont warp the panel.

With the dents gone you have your choice of filler either plastic filler(bondo), fiber-glass filler(strains of fiber-glass in it), metal-to-metal, and spray able filler. Most fillers don't like going more then a 1/4" as it will crack. Metal-to-metal is a very nice filler "Aluminum filled body repair filler for metal surfaces. Has excellent corrosion resistance and superior adhesion to galvanized steel and aluminum. Will not sag. Best known as the "nearest thing to lead." Moisture proof. Rustproof. Easily sands to a fine featheredge. Metal-2-Metal™ liquid reactor included." Another good thing with metal 2 metal is if you need to tap the area you can. Some filler likes bare steel to grab onto others like a primer surface.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My point was that paint remover is not a clean process. It does create less dust, and makes less noise, but for me the jury is still out on whether it's any easier. I used strpper to do my entire Land Rover, but that was removing paint from riveted aluminum. There was simply no way to get around all the rivet heads with a sander...but it took a long time. I was glad I didn't have to worry about rust on the exposed surfaces like you do with steel.

Any stripper that is left behind will ruin your new paint! Any seams, or areas you can't reach will be the places the stripper will lie in wait to ruin your new paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My experience, especially with the older laquer finishes, is that the paint stripper just turns it into a giant watery mess and doesnt remove it anyway.

I always seem to try a panel on the older cars, and regret it. I stripped my Monte with 80 grit on a DA, then went back over it with lighter grits before any primer. The chemical stripper is usually just a nightmare and I would recommend you steer clear of it completely!

If you do use chemicals, Tape up everything real well that you dont want to ruin, usually run tape about 1/8" from any jambs, you can sand that edge off later.I like to scratch the paint first with a 36 or 80 grit,just to let the stripper get down into what your stripping,it speeds up the process. Use cardboard and whatever else you can to protect it.You need to completely clean the metal extremely well when your done, then sand it down.. I use TalStrip II when we do use a chemical, but like I said, with the older finishes, it doesnt take care of them like it does on the newer urethane paints. PM me if you have any questions, Id be happy to try and walk you through anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...