Jump to content

Loop


Chevyss

Recommended Posts

Just received my driveshaft loop yesterday. Looks good. NOW! What is the best way to install it. Bolt or weld??

 

If you weld, you need to pull carpet and insulation??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I can speak from experience that you don't want to weld underneath carpet and insulation...the tar stuff on the floorpans is a problem too.

I had a muffler shop show me the wrong way to weld a hanger to the floorpan, and it was not a good feeling to see smoke rolling out of the interior as the lift slowly brought the car to ground level. LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Royce there is a reinforcing runner on the floor pan just aft of the cross member. By the shape of the BMR unit it looks like it's designed to use that as a mounting point. My shop simply drilled holes where needed and welded nuts flush with the surface of the runner and bolted the loop in. No worries with getting the floor too hot or putting in any plates.

 

It's not a structural piece, just there to catch something and they rarely do. Don't over think it, save your brain cells for another day..Davey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the BMR piece and like Davey said, it mates up directly to the cross brace for the floor pan. I welded mine in and did not remove the carpet. I was concern, of course, but the transfer of heat from the floor bracing to the floor pan was not significant. I also took my time and am sure that had something to do with relatively small heat build up.

 

To get it in the correct location before welding, I used 5/16 fender screws and attached to the floor brace.

 

And Burton, call me crazy, but I actually really enjoy welding wink . It used to scare me before I actually started learning to do it years ago. Wait, you can't call me crazy, we already have one "Crazey Davey". - Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is the quality? Are they fitted? smirk - Dave

 

Quality???? why nothing but the finest for anyone crazy!!! they're gonna be Flexfit..... crazy

 

and Scott............go order your heads.... wink

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally Posted By: 72MC
What is the quality? Are they fitted? smirk - Dave

 

Quality???? why nothing but the finest for anyone crazy!!! they're gonna be Flexfit..... crazy

Ah, those flexfits are nice. - Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info. I have to agree with the welding procedure. I will take the extra time and effort needed to lift up the carpet, and weld the loop. I'm just a firm beliver to do it right the first time and then you never have to do it again. I will do it all at once with the install of the new driveshaft. Thanks again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

crazy......I'll send you a Crazy Davey hat so you can be one too!!! grin

 

Could just call me what my mom used too when I was young, "Loopey" crazy - Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally Posted By: 72MC
What is the quality? Are they fitted? smirk - Dave

As you can see, it's a one size fits most:

dunce.jpg

 

Judging by the pic that would mean even I could do it right? wink

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Judging by the pic that would mean even I could do it right? wink

 

Except yours would have a chin strap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used a universal loop.. and welded it to the front floor brace (Where the front of the front bench bolts down) didn't pull the carpet and had no issues.

 

Remember, NHRA rules require it be within 6" of the front u-joint!

 

having my rather long 700r4 put that floor brace in exactly the right spot for me smile

 

my front u-joint is 6" further back then it was when I had a TH350..

 

here is one pic of it

http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/transmission/driveshaft_loop.jpg

 

forgive the ugly welds... they AREN'T mine!

http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/transmission/driveshaftloopmount.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a shot of my setup. BMR loop welded in(excuse the touch up paint on the welds, for now). Like Tim's 700r4, my 4L80 sits back far enough for the loop to attach to the floor brace so as to be within NHRA 6" inch rule.

IMG00155-20100522-1234.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i actully modified my loop a little bit too. instead of both halves of the loop bolting in, which made it hang rather low..

 

I cut most of the ears off the top half of the loop, and welded the top and bottom halves together. then mounted the bottom half of the loop into the top half's holes.. which pushed it right up into the floor pan so it doesn't hang low under the car smile

 

this way I can still unbolt the loop and take it out if I want to... i just have to drop the driveshaft as well

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did Mythbusters not prove that a car cannot pole vault from a broken front joint?

 

Get Wally Parks on the phone.

 

Andy

 

Hello...this is Wally....where the hell am I????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't see that one. but the problem isn't pole vaulting..

 

a broken drive shaft can come thru the floor like a propeller thru a piece of paper and injure the driver.. (Same reason we have SFI Flex plates)...

 

our local track started requiring rear loops for cars that trap faster then a certain speed cuz a guy broke a rear ujoint, and the drive shaft removed the entire rear seat floor pan for him.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...