speedfreak71 Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 To me the problem with welding it in is if you ever had an accident and the shaft break it could mess up or mangle the loop. Then you would have to CUT the old one off to get a new one on. Second, I know when a shaft breaks it can mess up a lot of things but it's not a repetitive force. It's one BIG impact I would rather it pull the bolts threw the floor than rip and or mangle a big spot of floor pan that would need replaced. If it pulls the bolts out it would be easier to fix than if it rips where the welds are at the floor pan (or braces) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Well, I'm not sure I agree with the "not a repetitive force" statement. If a shaft breaks it's still bolted to the differential at one end, and the transmission at the other...the front part might stop if you shift to neutral, but that rear half will continue spinning wildly under there until the car comes to a stop. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 like I said... a broken driveshaft took the entire rear floor pan out of a car before.. Â if it breaks at the trans (main reason for needing a loop) it's gonna keep flailing around until the car stops. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 My uncle broke a driveshaft in his 56 pro-street and it beat up the tunnel pretty good. His loop wasnt at the tail end of the trans but at the rear of the car where he tubbed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chevyss Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 Why can't you put a loop at the rear also?? Contain the whole shaft if it should break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 ert: yep.. that's why NHRA calls for "within 6 inches of the front u-joint" Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowtieThunder Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 You need the loop up fron to catch the shaft if it breaks a front u-joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 no reason you can't put one in the back either.. just make sure you have enough room for suspension travel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chevyss Posted June 7, 2010 Author Share Posted June 7, 2010 Thanks Tim; Â I'm going to check it out once I get my new driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedfreak71 Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 if it breaks at the trans (main reason for needing a loop) it's gonna keep flailing around until the car stops.  95% of the time the drive shaft breaks at the starting line  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72Monte Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 If you had a loop in the back and the rear u-joint broke, you could waste your 3rd member...it would make the yoke act like a blender fed with a drive line. If the rear breaks without a loop it will pull out of the trans and drop behind you...right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chevyss Posted June 9, 2010 Author Share Posted June 9, 2010 Just want to keep the bottom of the car from getting beat up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowtieThunder Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 then dont use a rear loop or just install the upper portion leave the bottom off that way it stops the drove shaft from hitting floor but allows drive shaft to fall out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72Monte Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 I've dropped my drive line before (front U-joint) most often it is the front U-joint that fails like speed freak said. If you have good U-Joints and the correct length drive shaft, the loop is a "just in case" precaution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 The better your 60 foot time are the more that "just in case" comes into play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 yep. .that's why I'm not worried about 1310 ujoints with a 60' well over 2 seconds lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chevyss Posted June 11, 2010 Author Share Posted June 11, 2010 Installing a Nitrous ready driveshaft 3.5" w/1350 solid joints. Guess it's all a guy can do to ensure safty. Build it as strong as you can and hope for the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 Royce, that is the same unit I ordered from Denny's. You won't be disappointed. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuffaloBillPatri Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 So what brand is a good bolt on? Â I have a GV OD so mine will go a little further back. Â BBP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wiles Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 metco motorsports has the best. and they have supported this club with door prizes. buy a metco loop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 thread hijack: Â at what power levels does the stock drive shaft itself become not strong enough? (assuming I had the yokes changed to 1350 u-joints) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 it's not so much power Tim as it is exceeding the critical rpm speed of the shaft. The DS will fail in the middle when this happens, I have never seen one fail at the ends, just the joints or yokes...Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy's Auto Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 Tim, once you start getting serious with power, just find a driveshaft shop and get a new one built. My guy does just about any driveshaft for $375 out the door with new everything and balanceing is included. I have built everuthing from low 12 second donks to 9 second Chevy Luv trucks. Â One thing in common. I build you an engine. You put it in. I build you a drivetrain, I put it in. If I put it in, you get a new driveshaft. Just a very cheapo piece of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowtieThunder Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 I would say once you get into the 11's it wouldnt be a bad Idea to start looking into it..... Like andy said it is cheap insurance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy's Auto Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 Burp!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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