Aftermarket Driveshaft Recommendations

[Winston Wolf]

Looking to get a new driveshaft for my car. Standard/stock length TH350. Would like some insite on who people have used and experiences. I don't need carbon fiber or something wild, as I have a few other things I need to spend money on also. Needs to handle a fair amount of horsepower though.

 

Thanks.

[TN454Monte]

If memory serves there are several people here seem to use a place called Inland Empire Drive Shafts.

 

Website for Inland Empire

[CrazyDavey]

lot of people back east use Denny's....Inland Empire is great....There are some local type guys too, no mystery, just good materials, yoke ends and such. I think most guys go with a 3 1/2"...some use 4" but I think at our power levels that would be overkill. Upgrade to 1350 joints as others have memtioned. The most expensive part of the ds are the forged yokes...Carbon Fiber and Aluminum are not good choices for heavy cars...you want steel

 

They will want you to measure, the Inland Empire site Greg gave you tells how to do that correctly. Car needs to be in its "on the ground" position (great if you can use a 4 post)and you want about 3/4" play at the transmission ....Dave

[72MC]

Winston, I know I have already stated my recommendation in your other post. Also from your other post, Mike57 states ( "I run a Denny's nitrous ready, not a cheap date but comes with a lifetime guarantee"), That is the same one I run and all I can say is you won't be disappointed. Along with the guarantee, if I remember correctly my conversation with Denny, it is also capable to handle up 1000 hp. Also comes with 1350 non-greaseable joints. Don't use the greaseable 1350 joints as they are not as strong. With this driveshaft, it will no longer be the weak point in the driveline. And yes, the downside is that it is almost a $500 investment. Good luck with your decision. - Dave

[Sam (Bones)]

but a $500 investment is cheap insurance, just think of the destruction a blown shaft can/will do!

 

I run a dynotech custom shaft, have had zero issues with it

[72MC]

but a $500 investment is cheap insurance, just think of the destruction a blown shaft can/will do!

 

I run a dynotech custom shaft, have had zero issues with it

 

Totally agree Sam - Dave

[Chevyss]

Denny's for mine. Good reputation.

[Mike 57]

inland and Denny's are both good. give them a call and see what they say. Seems like most east coast guys use Denny and west coast use inland probably shipping cost and time

 

[Andreas]

Denny's here

I was impressed when I talked to them...

[kc8oye]

custom shaft, have had zero issues with it

 

of course you haven't.. your engine broke first *snicker*

 

[680HPStroker]

If you are going custom I agree with Dave and Sam, but you might want to check with local tranny shops as there might be a driveline shop that manufactures driveshafts. Mine was built locally out of 3.5" tube with the 1350 non-greasable Spicer u-joints. I could spray a 500HP shot of NO2 and my driveshaft would laugh at me and say "is that all you got". Good luck.

[BowtieThunder]

IMO find a locall place the does drove shafts.I use a place called C&U driveshafts and paid 375 for mine.No need to go long distance when you more than likely have a place close that can do it.Quick search of Mineapolis showed a places.Even goto a machine shop or speed shop and ask them if there is anyone in town that makes driveshafts.

 

 

http://www.provenforce.com/

 

 

Adl Driveshaft Services

2626 University Ave Ne

Minneapolis,MN55418-2706 (map)

 

(612) 789-3553

 

 

[Andy's Auto]

Usually if your town has a heavy duty truck shop they will also build driveshafts. My guy Butch at Total Truck will build me a nice tough shaft for around $300.

 

Andy

[Winston Wolf]

Well, Found a guy in town that has a 200-4r case for 100 bucks. He will also swap my internals for 300$ more, so I think I'll just go that way instead of doing it myself.

 

Will try and get a driveshaft ordered up this week before I pull the trans so I can get the correct measurements. Still haven't decided where to go, but it looks like it will be a 500$ investment. Would I need to install a new 1350 pinion yoke before I measure? or are they the same length as a stock yoke?

 

I feel I also need to upgrade my axles, as they are still stock and will be the next weakest link.

 

For those who have done it, did you go with C-clip style or use the eliminators? With the eliminators do the axles/hubs stick out further? This would cause an rubbing issue with my big tires...

 

For this HP level, I would think some standard c-clip axles would live just fine?? Opinions and suggestions?

[TN454Monte]

On the drive-shaft question; the guys at Dixie doing my work would be happy to help as well.

 

Dixie Performance

 

3133 US HWY 25E

Middlesboro, KY 40965

 

606-248-1200 / 1900

 

Ask for Kurt or Eulan.

 

 

[Mike 57]

Get the measurements that they require and they will figure out the new yokes.

I went with these C clip eliminators from strange c clip eliminators They use a tapered bearing and are double sealed, I have not seen any leakage, and are made for side loading that you get on the street. A lot of the c clip kits use a roller bearing and they should not be side loaded. It is up to you, but at 10.99 you have to have to have c clip eliminators

[680HPStroker]

I prefer weld on housing ends with no c-clips. Kinda like a 9" hybrid rearend.

[Andy's Auto]

Mr.Wolf. I swear by my Moser Street Strip C Clips axles. Not exactly NHRA legal but have seen literally hundreds of mid 10 second passes. Never an issue.

 

And I say this through experience, not what I have read. I went with a set of Superiors in my 71 496 car, but they have only been in for a dozen or so passes. Time will tell. Or just a few more passes on the trans brake might tell a different story.

Andy

[CrazyDavey]

Justin the slam against the c-clip elims is potential leaks however as Mike says I too have not had that problem. The up side is that if you do break an axle they could quite possibily save a quarter panel. Also as Mike said if you plan on taking it to the ten's you will need them anyway...Dave

[Winston Wolf]

I will not take this car to the 10's, in fact it will never have a roll cage so 11.50 will be the limit, I think for a street cruiser, stock body/interior sleeper that's plenty powerful. My main concern would be that the wheels are pushed further apart, taking away some fender to tire clearance. C-clip axles are around 250 or less, to convert would be that plus another 150.

 

For those who have done it, do you cut off the ends of the axle after the backing plate? Then how do you press on the bearings to the axles? I think I just use normal axles, correct? Again, main concern is if it widens the width.

[wallaby]

I remember someone here was complaining about extra width after instaling aftermarket axles...Can't remember who it was. If I remember right, the heavy duty axles had a thicker flange and moved eveything outward as a result.

[CrazyDavey]

I don't believe that's an issue Justin. The actual width problems come from the aftermarket axles themselves where flanges are thicker like Mark said

[bobsmc]

i had big problems with moser axles,it throws off everything from my disc brake spacing to needing a different offset on my rear wheels.what makes it worse is the reps at moser told me i was crazy!they say all factory measurements are mantained,but my wheels never even came close to rubbing before the change.if you ask nice they will machine them to your specs.

 

bob

[502ci]

I'll agree on the "C-clip Moser axles having a thicker flange of a 1/4". In my particular case it worked to my advantage as I was using a 1/4" spacer already and was happy to remove it.

 

Like it was said they will make them exactly to whatever width you want if you ask them.

[Mike 57]

The C clip eliminators allowed me to move my axles in slightly to gain more clearance on my wheel wells. I remember a guy that said he would never put a roll bar in his car. It really looks good in there with the factory interior!