monte70car Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Guys got a major issue which is driving me batty. I've been tweaking the EFI since last week with the garage door open and a big floor fan blowing air into the radiator but my water temp got as hot as 220 degrees and kicking coolant out the over flow tube. The motor is a 67 block that was bored .0040 over stock with the block being deck as the stamping under the alt is no longer there. My timing is set for 32 degrees by 3200rpm's car starts great so I don't believe its a timing issue but I could be wrong. I did check coolant level thinking it might be too level causing the high temp reading but its full. I know the fans are pulling alot of air as you can hold a piece of paper on the front side of the radiator where my trans cooler is and it sucks the paper to it. I know its not my sensor in the head reading high do to the headers as all three show the same temp. I'm open to an ideas on what could be. Would the timing set make a change is the dots were not lined up so the one on the crank at 12 and the one on the cam at 112 instead of pointing at each other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 get it out of the garage and drive it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7tonemonte Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Hit the road and see, get some more air into it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Rob that floor fan is not going to move enough air...that would be like idling along at 20mph...also it shouldn't be blowing fluid at 220, maybe a new cap (14lb) is in order.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 I do have this cap its a 16lbs cap. and looking at stock replacements it comes up as a 16lbs cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS5 Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Hey Rob, I have the same problem in the Chevelle from time to time and it is a 454 that is bored out too, and everything is brand new. I am now looking at a 4 core Aluminum rad as Vaughn has one in his 502 car with electric fans and all seems to run just fine in that and Vaughn does run it..you can paint it Black to look OEM as I am certain I will have to do that as well....so maybe Aluminum is the way to go with the Big Blocks...??? What do you think Davey..??? Darren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Try bumping he timing up to 36 total Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Try bumping he timing up to 36 total  X2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 i agree with Mike and Scott, 32 is pretty lazy for a BB... Â Darren I run a 4 core Matson aluminum in Red's car with the stock clutch fan, hangs out at 180 and up to 195 in 100 degree weather but that's about it...no issues.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 How lean is it? I had a issue when starting out with the FI and it was way too lean at idle.. Mine never gets over 200 with a stock 4 core radiator and stock clutch fan... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 I will try bumping the total up to 36 later today if not tomorrow. Darren as for the aluminum radiator idea and elec fans those are already in place. I don't have a 100% aluminum radiator as I picked up a 93 gm pickup/van radiator same size as a stock unit for $193 years back, last year I painted the front side black for a stock look. Â Ian as for being leaning its far from it from what the people on the powerjection website says. If I can't get raid of the popping on aceel I might just throw the 750 holley back on it. I guess that's what happens when there ain't a configuration file for your motor and you have to build one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 I did a little checking on why the motor runs hot and I believe the issue to be a blockage somewhere. With the radiator cap off and just playing with the throttle coolant gets pushed to the radiator cap opening and out comes the coolant even down the over flow tube. Now to figure out where the blockage is the only thing that has not been change over the last 16 years is the heater core so that might be a good place to start. And since the coolant is drain maybe put a new thermostat in would a stock thermostat work best or go with one 5 degrees lower? I have one heater core hose going to the water pump and then the other hose goes into a port on the radiator instead of the intake would that make any difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jim Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Hopefully compression is not pushing that coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 It's not the heater core. Even when our cars were new they had a mechanical valve to stop water flow through the heater core when the AC was turned on. If that was the kind of thing that would lead to overheating, you can bet they wouldn't have added the valve! (Hot weather+ AC usage+ restrict water flow? I think not). Â One thing to consider is the heater outlet going to the radiator tank: sometimes the simple turbulence caused by the water returning there can cause spillage out of an open cap. The problem would seem to be TOO MUCH flow through the heater... but once you put the cap back on, every thing works fine. You can't always get a good idea of flow by opening the cap; sometimes it's like opening the door on a front-load washing machine to see if it's working ok. A couple of things you CAN look for is the water flowing through the radiator itself. Lower the water level a bit and see if you can see the water coming out of the core tubes...they should flow freely, and not be pouring out from too much above the water level. The other thing to check for is the lower hose: see if it is collapsing from suction there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted August 11, 2011 Author Share Posted August 11, 2011 Well i hit up off Summit this afternoon for a few parts. I went ahead and order a new heater core along with a 195° thermostat as the stock piece open at 192-198°. I also went ahead and throw in a non-thermal clutch and a replacement fan blade. My goal is for the elec. fans to come on when the clutch fan is not engaged. I also order a little bottle of Red Line's water wetter which is supposedly drop the temperature 20°. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 Iron Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Hi Robert, If you read my post in the last couple of days "Rad Overflowing" Mine started overflowing bad this past wk end,it may of been doing it a little off and on. I changed the stat thinking it may been stuck open forcing it back to the rad too fast and allowing it to come out the overflow. I used this funnel type thing,don't know what its called but it get all the air out of your system. It has a seal on the bottom which acts like the lower seal on the cap preventing it from coming out the overflow and also has a cap built on it to tighten down where your reg cap would go.You fill the rad up full then place this on and tighten the cap.You can put some antifreeze in the top so you can see it bubbling while getting all the air out.this is like running it without the cap but don't have the spilling out when it burps.You allow it to run until all the air is out.Mine had a large amount of air ,it took about 1/2 hr for it to stop bubbling,You also need to turn the heater on too.I had to add more Antifreeze to it after some of the air come out.The extra that I added to the top of the funnel thingy when I started went down and needed to add more just to see the bubbles so I would know when the air is all out. Some one here will know the name of this likley. I took a pic of it and will ask Tony (Green tony) if he will post it . I think the stat was partial the problem but mostly the air pockets. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7tonemonte Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Heres the Pics from Terry. My friend uses this same funnel at his shop, you pretty much need one of these to fill the newer cars anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 Well I start tearing into the Monte this afternoon. I pulled the current stat out and gave it a quick test in a pot of boiling water, stat open right up at 160 degrees like it's marked. I went ahead and start to take the heater hoses off at the fire wall but ran into a problem one of the hose clamps wasn't turn the right way so the a/d delete box had to be pulled. Now I did take the 3/4 hose off at the heater core and noticed that part of the core was dry. Dad brought up the point about the heater valve not working right but that is returning the coolant back to the motor right(or in my case to my radiator) or is it the 3/4" that's the return? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 3/4" is return  whether water is circulating thru the heater core or not, it has no connection to your high water temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 are you running one of those small diameter crank pulley's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 Its a small diameter pulley, it's suppose to get more water flow. I know with the stock size pulley's it ran the high temps. I just hope I'm not going down the wrong path. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 the small crank pulley SLOWS! the water pump pulley, the alternator and power steering too  at low RPM's I had all kinds of high temps, as soon as I put the stock pulley back on, I have never gotten over 190 even running dream cruise at over 90 air temps in stop and go traffic, I don't use a mech fan, just two 14" electrics  your charging system will be much happier with the stock pulley too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Heater core came in today along with the other parts. I did put the water hose to the core and the water came out without a problem. I will swap out the pulleys for a set that's on the 454 down in the elkie, before buttoning up the engine with the fan and the clutch. I did measures the crank pulley this afternoon and it is a 5" the one on the elkie is 7" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 Well got it all back together but now I got to take it back apart for some reason my 19.25" fan wont fit my 19.5" opening. I had ordered a stock replacement fan for a 70 Monte so one would think it would be right. My other choice for right now is to pull the clutch off and see what it will do with the bigger pulleys and the 195° stat in it. here is the old and new core and the pulleys borrowed from the elkie and the clutch fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 Iron Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Hope it works out Robert,You have had a time .You need to catch a break Mine is doing great now after a few minor issues but it drove me nuts for the couple of days elimitating this and that. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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