MC1of80
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Everything posted by MC1of80
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You state the front brakes dont work like you feel they should. I would also check the front rubber lines to the front calipers. Over time some tend to swell up inside and hamper the calipers from providing the correct pressure to stop properly.
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That would be your best and safest bet. Like I stated somewhere. Lol my eagle rotating assy could have been either also. Happens to be a neutral balance 496 crank.
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Look at the spec card that came with it or call Callies
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Yes indeed they do. I used them on another Monte project years ago.
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What Canuck and RealRed70 said and pictured. No bowtie emblem, those are repops. Only the derby caps that say Chevrolet motor division are correct. RealRed70, PM sent.
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You're welcome. I believe you should be able to do it that way also.
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I would put them in. Keeps the body and chassis from "meeting" when flexing.
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Clutch Frame side Bell crank Bracket location
MC1of80 replied to gareth001's topic in Drivetrain Tech
Looks to be some " backyard engineering" I have seen worse. Lol the bracket you have pictures should bolt directly to the frame. Maybe your binding issue is from the height of the installed set up? -
Alot of parts are like that. Just a "phantom" fit.
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Looking good! Especially with the slight overhang, I vote for all the tail mouldings. I feel the 72 should have it/them. That's one of the unique parts that make the 72 distinct from the 70 and 71.
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Lolol apologies Rob
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Like Mr Peters said, looking good! Nice work. Can't wait to see her finished!
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Hi. I recently replaced that exact line on my 71 402 "barn find". I used the steel line, prebent from inline tube. It came fast and fit like a glove.
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I have gone 10 teens in a drag car with 10 bolt arms on a 12 bolt for many years. I'm sure they made the different arms for a reason. I'm just saying they work the same.
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Hi. Nice score! Just bolt it in with the 10 bolt arms. It will bolt right in. I have installed way to many rears in my time like this. Especially if you don't mind if you have the factory correct arm or not. The stock 10 bolt upper arms will work.
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You may want to find out from the engine builder. My 496 is internally balanced. If it's a 454 crank, then yes an external balanced flexplate and balancer. I have an eagle rotating assy in mine and again, it's internally balanced.
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Sweet ride! Why the buckets and no console? I had a 70 like that. The story I was told is that the lady who purchased the Monte wanted a place to put her purse. On a bench seat it would keep sliding to the other side. Lolol. True story.
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Also the Oldsmobile 12 bolt has a different cover.
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Buy the prebent! You will be Soo happy. Lol. Especially that the body is off like cny first gen 71 said. I also hate spending money when I can save some but sometimes it's just worth it in the long run.
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Hey Tommy! Nice progress! I personally used to think like you about prebent lines. Now I won't use anything else unless I can't get them. I use regular steel prebent lines. Not stainless. I usually get them from inline tube. Soooo much easier and faster and nicer looking. Just saying. Lol.
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I recommend a 4 core brass old school radiator or of going aluminum's 2 row, 1inch tube should be good also. To be positive, call a radiator manufacturer and see what they recommend. I have an old school 4 core in my SS and an old school 3 core in a 402 car and both cool fine.
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If you swap out the nut/fitting with one from a Monte SS (g-body) on the back of the p/s pump that would work also. I have done a few.
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I agree with the others. The a/c cars had tint and the non a/c cars did not.
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Also, if you do some research on the ls1 site, there is a place that sells fittings that lets you use your stock hoses with the o-ring/metric steering box.
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Value of matching number vs non-matching numbers
MC1of80 replied to sredmyer's topic in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum
Merry Christmas to you! Sweet ride! Enjoy!!
