MC1of80

Go to the TCI speedometer calculator on their site, put in your info and it will tell you what you need.

Then, if hot water is hot, why do you need a hot water heater? Why do we drive on a parkway and park in a driveway? When a building is being built it's called a building but when it's done it's still called a building and not a built? Things to think about....

In the second pic, The white and brown were used for the coil when the car had a points distributor. With the key in the on position, make sure you don't have power to the terminal. If you do, tape it up so it doesn't ground out.

And that ladies and gentlemen is The SNOWBALL EFFECT.

Welcome Greg! Nice looking example you have there. Tell is more about it and of course, more pics!!! Lolol

The exhaust doesn't hang too low of done properly. My 70 SS, 496, 3 1/2" to 3" x pipe with ultraflow mufflers, I'm told, sounds amazing! Can't upload the video, 😡🤬 Here's a pic when I got the front end aligned to see how the exhaust hangs.

I'm running an XPipe on my 70 SS. I had a 3" x pipe on it and now I have a 3 1/2" from the hooker comp headers to the X then out of the other half of the X is 3" to the rest of the 3" exhaust system. I purchased the last Torque Tech kit and it was made with the 3 1/2" front section. I will try to get pics. We also installed one into my son's GTO convertible. We used a universal x pipe kit from summit. 2 1/2" front to back. Here is a pic of my brother welding it up outside the car.

Rosendo, Maybe this will help on your request for 2 1/4 tailpipes, if that's the size you have. Inlinetube lists CHX70T4. Out of stock right now their website says.

I don't know the bulb size Mike. I did see, I believe inline tube now makes the maplight lens in case you do break yours. Just in case.

Leave. The return line off or cap it. Fuel still coming out of the vents even with the floats adjusted low sounds like the needle and seats are stuck or have debris in them. I would remove them end either check or replace them.

Fuel coming out of the breathers on the float bowls indicates the floats are too high. I constantly run all my holley carbs at 8psi. Never had a problem in over 35years. That being said, if you want a good mechanical pump try the holley pump. Holley lists a few for the small block. Read the description and pick the one that best fits your application. I have the 170gph Holley pump on my 496. The highest fuel pressure mechanical pump that can be used without a regulator. I was going for a stockish look. Couldn't be happier with the pump. I would go over the float level adjustments again. With the car running, fuel pressure will fluctuate alot with a mechanical pump.

What you want to do can be done. I have done an LS swap into another vehicle, not a Monte Carlo. 6.0 with a th400 behind it. The th350 bellhousing will bolt up to the LS except for one bolt. No biggie. Do you plan on getting a different torque converter? If using the stock converter you will need a flexplate and spacer combo. TCI makes a good one. If going with a custom stall or just wanting one that will bolt right up, I used a Continental torque converter. They make a converter that goes into the th350/th400 and has the front to bolt to the LS flexplate and center hub size of the LS. Hope this helps. Ohhhh! One other thing, will you be using a carburetor or factory style fuel injection? The th350 uses a "kick down" cable for passing gear. The nice thing with the th350 is that you do not need it for shift points like a 700r4 or a 200r4. But you will manually have to put the shifter into 2nd and punch it to get the "passing gear" feel/reaction.

Really?¿? That's interesting. 🤔 All these years.....

Did you use Teflon tape or the liquid version on both the filter cap and the fuel line?

As long as it prevents squeaks, you should be good to go.

Removal of the shims is what my son had to do to both of his cars. Make sure to coat the back of the pads, where the shim was with "disc brake quiet" or similar product. The shim is an anti- rattle/squeak shim.

I have the steel ones in my 70 SS and they bolted right in. Try to install them with the weight of the car on the wheels or stands near the front bumper to keep the nose from sagging and misaligning the fenderwells.

Thank you for the laugh!!! 🤣

Yes, it is kicked out for the bigger tank like the top plate is. I believe it's Henshaw that sells both the top plate and the extension.

Hey Dan. Big Red, my 70 SS was built at the Flint plant, has/had a/c and has the 3 core radiator top plate and matching core support. It now has a 4 core that I had in stock. I removed the a/c box due to not having all the pieces and header clearance. The build date is 9/69. My brother's 71 SS has the 4 core rad with the top plate and rad support extension. A/C car. I know it's not a 70 but hope it helps.

Glad you are making progress and what was advised is working out. You were warned by myself and others about that fan!!! Git er gone!!!! Just glad it wasn't you fingers or someone else's.

Philips screw through the metal tab on the column.

Yes, same principal. The vacuum can on the distributor turned towards the carb is advancing the timing and towards the firewall is retarding. You want to advance. Change the oil to a thicker oil with zinc and then see how the valves sound.

When you get a chance, play with the timing. Advance it a little. See how she reacts.

Factory oil pans are 5qt and one in the filter for a total of 6qts. 10w30 in my opinion is too thin for an old school engine. The tolerances are not as right as the new cars. I recommend Rotella 10 40. It's diesel oil but cleans and has a high zinc content for the cam and lifters and it doesn't hurt the wallet too bad. What temp thermostat did you install? I like the 160 some like 180. It's up to the owners preference and climate the car is used. Did you adjust the air mixture screws? Check the float level? Timing? It may be a little low. Great progress you are making!