Rob Peters

If you use Moth Balls what I would do is either leave them in the box and punch holes in the box or put them into some kind of container so they don't come in direct contact with the interior. I used drier sheets in my Model A (Mohair interior) and still got mice. If you are going to use traps I would make sure you check them regularly.... maybe if you used the tacky strips that you don't have to reset. I store my Monte in an away from home storage garage and did not use anything and had no issues. Rob

No, me signing my posts is nothing new, I have always signed my posts either Rob, rob, RVP or rvp. some here even used to refer to me as RVP rob

If I remember correctly they were both used. rvp

Just a note here. The full halo is not an indication of a 70 being an early, mid or late year build. The lack of a full halo trim is more an indication of a plant that ran out of the 1970 trim and just started using the 71 trim they had for the new production year. Mine is a very late year build (June 1970) with a full halo two-tone. (Mine is a Baltimore built car) rob

BEAUTIFUL!!! rob

Great information, thanks for sharing it. Rob

Great Score Larry. I take it this one is also NOS, if not it is in amazing condition. rob

I bet you are so excited you could almost wet yourself rob

On most of them you will need to enlarge the holes a little. Just dont try to force the holes to match because it can buckle the fender. Yes, it can be done without removing the fenders. Dont forget to get the dust flaps for the a-arm openings. rob

Very Nice Work!!!! Rob

No, that's NOT RVP.... Rob is much better looking than that guy. Just sayin.

Like Sam said, Pull that kick panel off along with the drivers side kick panel. I would also pull off the top dash pad and then run the water on both sides.... one at a time to see if you can tell where it is coming from. Good luck. rob

My Baltimore Built Monte had several. One in the front seat bottom just above the hump, one in the rear seat springs, one in the drivers seat back (but this one was for another Monte a few cars behind mine on the assembly line). I found another one just under the carpet on the drivers side which is a very complete build sheet but it is stained due to the sound deadening material. I have not removed any of the original carpet so there may even be more under the carpet. I have never dropped the gas tank so there may be one up there also. Since your interior has been replace I doubt you will find one in the seats but if the carpet has not been replace that may be a good bet. Rob

If you give us the letter in the middle of the VIN number we can tell you what plant it was produced. The reason I say this is because there is no reason to tear apart the car looking for a build sheet if the car was made in the Flint plant because nobody has found a build sheet in a Flint built car. rob

First off, i see this is your first post. Welcome aboard the boards. We hope you like what you see and decide to become a dues paying member of the club. When you pulled up the carpet and padding was there any rust? If so, it may have been leaking for awhile and if not it could have been what he said. If it was coming from the heater core it would be anti-freeze. If the AC hasnt been run then the drain from the AC box drain couldn't be the issue.. rob

Slacker, you look fine to me. Did you go to the doctor? rob

Like Bob said, the larger one (1156) is the backup lamp. The smaller one (67) is for the license plate lamp socket. rob

It could be the Idle Stop Solenoid is not properly adjusted or not working properly. It is mounted on the drivers side of the carb. When you turn the key on this solenoid energizes ane you adjust your idle speed there. When you shut the key off this should disengage the solenoid causing the throttle linkage to drop the throttle out and starve the engine of gas and prevent the "diesel" effect you speak of. I has been awhile since I adjusted one but I think, with the engine off, you turn the solenoid idle bolt all the way in and adhust the solenoid so, the throttle linkage won't touch the idle bolt head sticking out of the solenoid. Then start the engine, let it warm up to a normal idle and then adjust the bolt head to a desired idle speed. Like I said, it has been awhile since I adjusted one so my adjustment description may not be correct. Hopefully the below link will take you to a pi"ture of an idle solenoid, not necessarily the correct one. Rob http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=idle+solenoid+picture

I don't think the ones on my 70 Monte blink either. I didn't think they were supposed to. Rob

Looks great Andreas, great to see the results of you wrenching with Leo. Rob

Took both the Monte and Model A to a community car show. They gave two trophy's at the meet, one for the "Best Antique" and one for "Best Classic". I registered the Model A in the Antique Class and the Monte in the Classic Class. The Monte was selected as the Best Classic and was awarded with the trophy shown in the thumbnail picture but better than that it came with a cash award of $75.00. The day was not without incident. It started out with the Model A breaking down just a couple blocks from the show area. A bolt came out of the starter bendix causing the starter locking onto the flywheel locking the engine up solid along side the road. I called AAA for a flatbed tow. While waiting for the tow I called my son to have him bring my tool bag up to me. I then pushed the car a little to get it rolling, jumped in, shifted it into reverse and popped the clutch. (My idea was with the car rolling forward, putting in reverse and popping the clutch it would disengage the bendix from the flywheel and it worked.) By then my son arrived with my tool bag and the motor now unfrozen I removed the starter. With my son working the spark, choke and throttle, I tried to start it with the hand crank and it would fire but not stay running. By then the tow flatbed arrived and she was loaded up. He unloaded the Model A at the top of my slanted driveway. I decided to give it a try rolling down the driveway and popping the clutch. When I moved the hand throttle to increase the throttle I felt no resistance where there should have been. When I looked under the hood I found I had knocked the throttle linkage god off and that is why it would not stay running. I connected the rod, hopped into the car, let start rolling, popped the clutch and she fired right up. The tow truck driver, who was still winding up his cable, heard her running and looked up and smiled said, you figured it out. I hopped out of the Model A, tipped him and headed back up to the car show blowing the Aooooga horn all the way out of the neighborhood.. All in all it was a great day looking back rob

That was also my understanding. rob

Build Sheets were found in the following areas of my 1970 Baltimore built car: 1.) Bottom rear seat springs. 2.) Bottom front seat springs. 3.) Driver side front seat back (this one turned out to be meant for a different Monte) 4.) Driver side front carpet between carpet and sound deadening material. I havent had the door panels or carpet out or the gas tank down so there may be more. rob

Like Sam said, all of the part numbers in both of those links are the same. You didn't say what size engine you have or if you have factory manifolds or headers. I have a 350 with stock manifolds ane the link below should take you to to a post of mine showing my manifold with the new heat shield installed. Click on the link and go to my post from April 13th. If your manifold is not stock oris a big block you may need to go with one mounted right onto the starter. rob http://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/13393-this-will-not-snowball/page-4

Pat and I went out to dinner this evening for my birthday and then I took in a car cruise. Haven't been to very many cruises since the Eastern Meet and it was good to get the Monte out. Met another guy with a 70 Monte and not only was it the best year Monte, it was also BLUE. Nice guy. Gave him one of the club business cards, hope he stops by. Rob