stangeba Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 So, here I am just a few weeks from my 1971 Monte Carlo's 50th birthday and I have never opened the trunk with the key. Wait, what? That is correct. I ordered the electric trunk opener and have never used the key to unlock the trunk. Guess what stopped working last winter when I put the Monte away. Correct, the electric trunk would NOT open, so I didn't open it. Spring is here and I tried again and the trunk did open with the electric "green" button in the glovebox! YEA!!!! My fear is gone! NOT TRUE!!!! Today I could not get the trunk key to turn so I removed the trunk lock cylinder. Soaking it in WD-40 but remember, it NEVER did work. I tried the glovebox lock and it locked and un-locked just fine with each (trunk AKA glovebox) keys. Here is my question, WHAT WOULD YOU DO NOW?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 Just for kicks did you try the other key? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 And another thing. If it was my car I would scrap it. PS but tell me first so I can give you scrap money for it. Just kidding. LOL 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 Bruce, how worn is the key. My door key was worn badly so I had a new one made from the old worn one and it left enough material on the new one to work. If that doesn't work pull the rear seat bottom and back and rig something up long enough that will reach the mechanical little shaft and turn it to release the latch. Fairly recently someone here was able to help someone do this exact thing. Just a note, if it is a bad switch button and not the solenoid you could pop the switch out and jumper across the wire connections.... also, check for a bad fuse rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 Ok, here is my question.... If the electric trunk didn't work, and you say the trunk key cylinder doesn't either, then how did you remove it???? I know you state it never worked, how did you open it to install the power set up? Has the lock cylinder been just laying in there for show? That being asked, if the cylinder is out, and it worked before the electric unit was installed, then most likely the tumblers are stuck/ frozen. I would soak it in a penatrating oil and a couple of jolts/whacks to try and loosen the insides up. You could change the door locks and trunk lock with a new set and have one key for them and one for the ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 If the lock cylinder is out can't you stick a screwdriver in and turn it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC-71 Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 He said the electric green button does work. Buy a new lock and have a lock smith re key the new one so you can use your old key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bell Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 It sounds like your trunk cylinder doesn't match the glove box cylinder. Take it and the key you want to use to a locksmith and they'll re-key it for you. Do you have a center console in this car? If yes, it's lock cylinder should be keyed alike to the glove box and trunk. You can buy a new set of cylinders but you'll need an engineering degree and a rocket scientist as an assistant who doesn't mind cuss words to remove & replace the glove box cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 1 hour ago, Paul Bell said: It sounds like your trunk cylinder doesn't match the glove box cylinder. Take it and the key you want to use to a locksmith and they'll re-key it for you. Do you have a center console in this car? If yes, it's lock cylinder should be keyed alike to the glove box and trunk. You can buy a new set of cylinders but you'll need an engineering degree and a rocket scientist as an assistant who doesn't mind cuss words to remove & replace the glove box cylinder. I spent multiple hours on the glove box. What a joke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbolt Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 I dont recall too much trouble with the glove box. The only thing i do remember is the glove box tumbler was the most difficult of all of them but it has been years since i rekeyed my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 12 hours ago, Dtret said: Just for kicks did you try the other key? Yes, I tried both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 11 hours ago, Rob Peters said: Bruce, how worn is the key. My door key was worn badly so I had a new one made from the old worn one and it left enough material on the new one to work. If that doesn't work pull the rear seat bottom and back and rig something up long enough that will reach the mechanical little shaft and turn it to release the latch. Fairly recently someone here was able to help someone do this exact thing. Just a note, if it is a bad switch button and not the solenoid you could pop the switch out and jumper across the wire connections.... also, check for a bad fuse rob Rob, the keys are not even scratched because I never used them, never locked the glove box till yesterday and I have always used only the electric power trunk unlocking button (Green) in the glovebox. I remember the keys wouldn't work 49+ years ago and I just ignored that fact as a teenager I never thought I would still have a 50 year old car. The electric unlocking system was working yesterday, but I notice the button must be held for about 5 - 10 seconds and I believe it is faster when the weather is warm and slower (or won't even work) when the weather is cold. Thinking back this has happened for a year or more. This is why I want to finally fix the key not working issue. I wonder if it is still covered by warranty? 😁 As of today, the trunk lock has been removed and I can open it, if needed, with a screwdriver from the outside. I will look more closely at the solenoid, I WD-40'ed the latch assembly yesterday also. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 1 hour ago, Dtret said: I spent multiple hours on the glove box. What a joke Dennis, Yes the trunk and glovebox probably don't match. I wonder who got mine! Thanks for the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bell Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 Bruce, I know you're the original owner of this car. If you have the Protect-O-Plate, the key codes are on it. They're also on the build sheet. An old school locksmith with the GM books from back then will be able to cut your key from the code. It's actually a hand held tool that punches out the notches in the key. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 10 hours ago, MC1of80 said: Ok, here is my question.... If the electric trunk didn't work, and you say the trunk key cylinder doesn't either, then how did you remove it???? I know you state it never worked, how did you open it to install the power set up? Has the lock cylinder been just laying in there for show? That being asked, if the cylinder is out, and it worked before the electric unit was installed, then most likely the tumblers are stuck/ frozen. I would soak it in a penatrating oil and a couple of jolts/whacks to try and loosen the insides up. You could change the door locks and trunk lock with a new set and have one key for them and one for the ignition. The electric trunk lock did NOT work last fall when I put the car away for the winter but DID work (however slowly) yesterday so I could pull it all apart to check it out. I ordered the electric trunk release and it was installed at the factory in Canada April 27. 1971. Yes the lock cylinder is just for show and to keep out the water. I am soaking it now but it NEVER did work, I just ignored that fact till last fall when it failed. I would like to keep the keys original. Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 7 minutes ago, Paul Bell said: Bruce, I know you're the original owner of this car. If you have the Protect-O-Plate, the key codes are on it. They're also on the build sheet. An old school locksmith with the GM books from back then will be able to cut your key from the code. It's actually a hand held tool that punches out the notches in the key. 10 hours ago, MC1of80 said: Ok, here is my question.... If the electric trunk didn't work, and you say the trunk key cylinder doesn't either, then how did you remove it???? I know you state it never worked, how did you open it to install the power set up? Has the lock cylinder been just laying in there for show? That being asked, if the cylinder is out, and it worked before the electric unit was installed, then most likely the tumblers are stuck/ frozen. I would soak it in a penatrating oil and a couple of jolts/whacks to try and loosen the insides up. You could change the door locks and trunk lock with a new set and have one key for them and one for the ignition. I do have the protecto plate! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 21 minutes ago, Paul Bell said: Bruce, I know you're the original owner of this car. If you have the Protect-O-Plate, the key codes are on it. They're also on the build sheet. An old school locksmith with the GM books from back then will be able to cut your key from the code. It's actually a hand held tool that punches out the notches in the key. 11 hours ago, MC1of80 said: Ok, here is my question.... If the electric trunk didn't work, and you say the trunk key cylinder doesn't either, then how did you remove it???? I know you state it never worked, how did you open it to install the power set up? Has the lock cylinder been just laying in there for show? That being asked, if the cylinder is out, and it worked before the electric unit was installed, then most likely the tumblers are stuck/ frozen. I would soak it in a penatrating oil and a couple of jolts/whacks to try and loosen the insides up. You could change the door locks and trunk lock with a new set and have one key for them and one for the ignition. I do have the protecto plate! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Paul, I have it in my hand. I also see the dealer wrote these on the warranty folder the tag is attached to. Looks like OA27 and 4P15 or 4D15 here is the metal protectoplate: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 TRYING TO DECODE USING THIS SITE: http://chevellestuff.net/1971/pop_decode.htm I see where 71 Monte's built in CANADA have line 3 and line 2 switched! Cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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