Whons Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Got a little problem. I had already swapped the boxed lower rear control arms from my 70 to my new 71. so I decided to replace the short upper ones as well. Got the driver rear out and when I finally got the front bolt out, I felt the car shift a little. The rear driver side lower bracket on the frame bent. Any advise how I'm going to be able to straighten that when I put the new upper ones in? Also couldn't get the upper bushing on the differential out, drilled all the rubber out and just have the metal sleeve to cut out. Know big deal, but am worried about the lower bracket. Attached a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I always removed the bushings on the rear with a BFH. (Big F@#$&;g Hammer) they also make puller/ installers for the bushings. As far a s a bent bracket, ? How do you have the car supported? I usually have jack stands under the frame, near the forward position of the rear lower control arm. Then use a floor jack to hold the rear/ move the rear as needed. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whons Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 I have the car on wooden blocks under the tires just as it would be on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Doing it on blocks creates more work than yo need.... As for bending the bracket, a really big cresent(monkey) wrench works. Just clamp it to to bracket and you'll effectively have a pry bar. When it came to getting the bushing sleeve out, I used a hacksaw to cut it down the length and basically split it. Not sure if you'd have room while the diff is still in the car, so a small sawsall and a lot of caution might be the way to go. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 52 minutes ago, Whons said: I have the car on wooden blocks under the tires just as it would be on the road. Support car like Tom stated and use a floor jack under the pumpkin to move the diff around. You bent is because you left it weighted. You should be able to straighten no problem. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whons Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Thanks everyone for the info. I made a mistake. I have it supported on the frame now. I can see what you mean. I have room to get at those bushings on the differential. I'm going to use a small ball carbide end mill with a die grinder and cut thru one wall to get them out. And I have a big monkey wrench to straighten the bracket. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Wayne i think i used an air chisel, and i say that because i dont remember having a problem getting them out. Then i used like Tom said a BFH to put them back in, i did put a dab of grease to help them back in. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whons Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Thanks before I put the new ones in I'm going to clean out the ID with emery clloth and grease the bushings. I've done a lot of work making press fits and slip fits as a machinist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Put the new bushings in the freezer. They will shrink slightly and make installation a little easier. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 With your experience in machining, you should have no problem. I made an installer with a piece of 1/2 inch fine thread all thread, two correctly sized pieces of pipe one braced against the ears on the pumpkin, and the other sized to the diameter of the bushing, and a flat plate and drew them in by tightening the nut. And yes, I did freeze them overnight and lubricated them when installing. John S 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whons Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 28 minutes ago, John S said: With your experience in machining, you should have no problem. I made an installer with a piece of 1/2 inch fine thread all thread, two correctly sized pieces of pipe one braced against the ears on the pumpkin, and the other sized to the diameter of the bushing, and a flat plate and drew them in by tightening the nut. And yes, I did freeze them overnight and lubricated them when installing. John S Yes all good ideas. I have a lathe and Mill. I always am making special sleeves for installing bushings and bearings. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420ponies Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Do the freezer trick. You'll have no problems with those bushings. My UMI bushings went right in with a little tap of a brass hammer. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 The bushing kit I bought came wit a lube to install them..... And the freezer trick was a great help. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 17 hours ago, John S said: With your experience in machining, you should have no problem. I made an installer with a piece of 1/2 inch fine thread all thread, two correctly sized pieces of pipe one braced against the ears on the pumpkin, and the other sized to the diameter of the bushing, and a flat plate and drew them in by tightening the nut. And yes, I did freeze them overnight and lubricated them when installing. John S Large sockets work too.... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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