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Replacing motor mounts on 402 with the motor in a 71 MC. Can someone walk me through the best way to replace the motor mounts with the motor in the car. I'm removing the exhaust manifolds, they need to be to be ceramic coated anyway, hoping that maybe I can bring the mount out the top, don't know. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks

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The correct way would be to pull the hood and take the wieght from the top "but" I have a half round piece of 2 x 6 cut to fit the balancer than use a hydraulic jack to take the wieght of the engine to pull the mounts.  Haven't had a problem in 50 years but wait for feedback from others.  Did my 454 oil pan seal last year this way.

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Pretty straight forward. Remove the through bolts that hold it to the frame mounts, lift engine to remove weight from mount, remove bolts that hold mount to engine, replace, reverse. That's pretty much what the factory service manual says.

What it doesn't say is how are you lifting engine? Do you have an engine hoist, using a floor jack, etc?

Also, you'll probably want to either loosen/remove fan shroud or the cooling fan so it doesn't stop the engine from lifting enough to clear the frame mounts.

EDIT: I was typing this when Grant posted his reply. If you have an engine hoist, it can be done without removing the hood, some guys even pull the engine without removing the hood (I don't. If I'm pulling the engine, I typically remove the hood because I want room to move around in there to clean stuff, etc.) .

I've also lifted from the bottom at the harmonic balancer, and will often use the oil pan too with a large enough piece of wood to spread the load. As in Grant's case, replacing the seal would necessitate using the balancer as a lifting point. 

May want to check the rear trans mount while you're under there.

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Replacing motor mounts on 402 with the motor in a 71 MC. Can someone walk me through the best way to replace the motor mounts with the motor in the car. 
 

STEP 1:  Pony up the $25 annual membership dues and become a member of the FGMCC

STEP 2:  Reap the benefits of the mechanical advice which you seek. 

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i was told by a local mechanic never use the harmonic balancer to lift the engine as that can damage the balancer. I have always used a big block of wood under the oil pan with a floor jack. I have never had a problem but did crack my distributor cap once, now I remove the cap from the distributor before raising the motor

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1 hour ago, Leghome said:

i was told by a local mechanic never use the harmonic balancer to lift the engine as that can damage the balancer. I have always used a big block of wood under the oil pan with a floor jack. I have never had a problem but did crack my distributor cap once, now I remove the cap from the distributor before raising the motor

I don't exactly 'like' lifting by the balancer either, and prefer the oil pan. Still, if removing the pan gasket for a job, there's not too many options if working on a lift.

I just woke up from my first nap of the day, and was thinking about the distributor clearance. Certain cars are really tight in that area, so it's something to watch for. Also, keep an eye out for fuel line stretch, and anything else attached to the engine.

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I agree not lifting the engine by the harmonic balancer . Put wood as large as you can under the oil pan. another thing I will add, if you rebuild or put in a new engine, always put in a New harmonic  balancer.

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I did the same thing to "Barn Find", my 71 402 Monte that was off the road for over 34 years. Check out the thread" awake after 34 yr slumber. 

With  the exhaust manifolds off it's easier to r/r the engine mounts. I used a ex and a floor jack under the sump of the oil pan. Do one side at a time. Should go smoothly. 

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when removing the oil pan I do the same process but after raising the engine I put a block between the block and the motor mount on each side

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