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fiberglass or bondo?


JOHNR

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I need to know what works better over the long haul? fiberglass epoxy stuff or bondo? I want to start my cars bodywork but not sure what works best for rust prevention and longevity? SOS!!

johnr

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Fiberglass should never NEVER be used as a filler on metal.

Good quality body filler (not bondo) Used under the right circumstances and over the right materials will last a very very long time...

Remember 99% of all bodywork failures is from improper workmanship.... And everyone is a bodyman and a painter...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Don't use "Bondo" brand body filler. Use a good professional filler from a paint supply store. I used the off Brand "Smart" that is the same thing as the more expensive brand Finish Master sells.

Its like a Klenex tissue, every tissue is a Kleenex but not really, its just the brand. Like every body filler is Bondo, but that is just the brand.

Bondo also has a premium brand that is better, but I just don't know how much.

 

Which Bondo got a band rap back in the day when they would bring in low mileage northern cars to the south, Fill it full of BONDO as you hear then sell them on used car lots only to see your car a few years later blistering from the covered up rust.

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i dont know if you have tried this or want to try this but theres aluminum bondo thats a mix of bondo and liquid aluminum and its just like bondo spreads good and is as hard as nails when it dryed. and as far as know its a rust proof thing because the aluminumcan rust and it bonds so well i dont think water can get to the steel if its done write.

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I've used Bondo brand filler, used Rage extreme on a friends car(nice filler). I use metal 2 metal or all metal in seam and areas that are low then top off with some type of plastic filler. I will be trying the Eastwood filler on the hood project that's in the works. On our 70 El Camino we used metal 2 metal and bondo brand filler and their fiber glass filler.

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Like Steve said above, minimal filler is the key. You are not going to be able to fill rust with anything and expect it to last.

A good lasting repair starts with bare metal, epoxy primer, and bodywork over that. The epoxy primer creates a waterproof barrier in case any moisture ever gets to the filler, it will not rust the metal under the filler then bubble the filler off. The Smart brand stuff that Jared mentioned isnt bad, Rage Extreme that Rob talked about is my personal favorite.

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the "aluminum bondo" you are talking about is the final cry to patch up a rust bucket that has past a point of no return....

It does not block in well, fillers dont adhere well, epoxys, urethanes, etch primers dont react well long term....

Do yourself a favor and keep it simple.. get a nice solid metal foundation on your car and go from there..

Fiberglass/resins, aluma bondos,fiber bondos etc. will in no way fix your car or make it look good.

My filler of choice is U-pol gold with U-pol gold glaze.... its a production filler but wont shrink or leave feather edges and pinholes...

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better listen to Tony & Steve, cut out the rust, patch with good steel, then fillers, I'll start with duraglas where filler needs to be thicker, then finish with body filler, then putty

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I know I purchased Rage Extreme for Steve when doing my resto because supposedly it has reduced pin holing. It was his first time using it and he liked it a lot.

 

To prep Steve either blasts, sands, wheels or cuts out the rust, then uses rust mort (or any type of rust neutralizing agent) to insure anything that might be left is neutralized, then an epoxy primer as mentioned by others.

 

It was a good idea to put the question out there before diving in.

 

Dan

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