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POR-15 QUESTIONS


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Anybody used it? How much is needed for a Monte's frame? Do I really need to use the Marine Clean and Prep & Ready? I am not removing the body from the frame. Is there any way to get the top of the frame done? All help is appreciated. Thanks

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Rodney, for what your doing for your car, I would personally just brush some Rust-O-Leum on it and call it a day!

I wire brushed my frame, and used it and its still holding up great. When I replaced the body bushings I had the body lifted slightly, it was enough to brush some paint in there. Granted, sandblasting and powder coating would be ideal, but I dont regret not doing it on my car. I used Por15 on a truck frame before, and it is good stuff, but I dont think its needed for your car. Just my opinion on it, save your money for better things

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Like others have said the ideal scenario is frame off, sandblast and paint but some wire brushing and a good quality rust paint will work just fine. I wire brushed parts of my frame in the late 80s and the rust paint is still holding up. I also sprayed some corrosion control (Rustcheck & Krown) in the inside boxed areas.

 

Good luck whatever your choice

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My store manager gave me a pint size can of the stuff and a brush. I figured if I get another pint or two I would be ok. I really just want to do underneath the car and maybe the floorboard and inside the bottom of the doors. I also would like to do my metal inner wheelwells. I plan on keeping my Monte and drive it also and if I get caught in diverse types of weather I want it to be OK.

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It is I important that you use the Prep and ready

It converts the rust into phosphates. If you then seal it off with Por 15, it should be good for quite a while

 

I did a few rusty spots on my Monte about 10 years ago with that approach and they are still the same as the day I treated them...

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Rodney,

 

I have only limited experience with POR-15, having used it to coat several front suspension parts a couple years ago. While I like the results and will use it again, I have learned to respect the stuff. It behaves more like liquid J-B Weld or epoxy than any paint I have ever used. Just be super careful to wear gloves and don't unintentionally get it on anything you can't throw away.

 

It does NOT respond to any of the normally useful paint solvents. If you get it on your skin, you will be wearing it for at least a week, probably longer. Use disposable brushes, containers and rags. After you first remove the lid from a container, don't replace it without first placing a fresh sheet of kitchen wrap over the can opening. When it dries between surfaces, it welds them together (and that is not an exaggeration).

 

It is durable after curing but is subject to break-down under exposure to UV light. Of course you can paint over it for any exposed areas but you shouldn't have to worry about UV exposure on your undercarriage. The entire underside of my SS car was sprayed with POR-15 before I got it and it has held up very well.

 

If you use it, I predict you will like the results. Just show it the proper respect and everything will be fine.

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Hey Rodney,

 

I've used POR-15 and other products for years and here is what I have learned. These are just my personal opinions and observations:

 

- POR-15 is a good product but pretty expensive.

- Recently I have switched to a product called Chassis-Saver and it is just as good as POR-15 and at about 1/2 the cost.

- Both products can be dangerous if you are not careful. Wear gloves, painting jump suit with long sleeves, respirator, and most of all good eye protection. Years ago I got a small drop of POR-15 in my eye and spent several hours in the Emergency Room getting my eye flushed followed by a visit to the Eye Doctor who had to use a large pin to remove the Rust Ring in my eye. Not a fun experience at all.

- Either way I would prefer to spray the paint rather than using a brush. In my experience I've found that an even coat of either paint is better than a brush when it comes to durability.

- To get to the top of the frame I prefer to jack up one side of the car at a time (after loosing up the body mounts one side at a time).

- I would also suggest new body mount bushings from someone like PST since it will be easy to do at that point.

- Cleanup and prep are always very important before any paint is applied. Lately I have been using a product called Rust-Mort as a prep after cleaning the area to be painted. It is a mild acid that attacks the rust in the pours of the metal. You just spray it on with a plastic spray bottle and wipe it in using a scotch brite pad. Let is dry 24 hours and sand lightly to remove any excess then paint.

- POR-15 and Chassis-Saver are much more durable than Rustoleum. Any undercarriage Rustoleum work I did years ago I find myself re-doing because it didn't hold up of the years.

 

Good luck!!

Mike

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I have used POR-15 on a mower deck about 8 years ago. When I scrapped the deck it was still there unharmed but rocks and what ever else was thrown at it. I just used the prep and clean before the Por and it held up very well. I wire brushed of the loose stuff and then the prep and ready. I did the same thing on the Monte frame when I had the motor out last Dec and I have stood on it, dropped tools and hit it with the motor when we reinstalled it. Very good stuff but NOT UV resistant.

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Thanks Everyone for the comments!! I got quoted $82.70 for a three quart system consisting of semi gloss, marine clean, and prep and ready. Along with the pint that I am getting from my manager I think I should be fine.

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