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Sure, it would look good with the dancing bananas.

Do they hook up an extra battery just for that paint color? Mighty bright !!

Thanks lads, just me and the insects Bob! I was at it for 8 hours straight between tack cloth and last coat of clear. Really pleased with the result and the color. Just have to sand out a few creatures and dust nibs. Unavoidable for a diy job I think. Happy Halloween!

i think it is perfect Dennis, same color as a banana!!!! rob

I do know one of the Mass guys here was trying to order Gahlick knots at a pizza place in Scottsdale. I told the waitress he was trying to order garlic knots. LOL

7 rooms booked, 19 remaining

It was going to happen at some point Steve. Last week was a tease with temperatures in the high 70’s and low 80’s. Time to tuck it away for the winter.

I have heard that if you use solid copper (old school from the 60's) spark plug wires, the unit will not last. Standard wires from the 70's will work fine. FYI

You can use the stock coil, wires and plugs. I have installed the Pertronix ignition on three GM cars. Be sure to bypass the ballast resistor so you will get full voltage to the coil. I recommend the LS model for longivity.

I think you have to upgrade the coil, I believe the stock coil won't work but not 100 percent sure but I believe that's why I did the one I did. Plugs will be the same but I did open the gap just a bit, wires should be ok.

Waynesboro Va , Eastside Speedway. Used to have both circle dirt track and drag strip but they stopped the dirt track years ago. There was also Natural Bridge which still has circle dirt rack but stopped drag racing years ago before I got a chance to run there

Thought I had a rear main seal leak. I didn’t see any oil tracking coming from the rear main bearing. I have a couple pictures looks more like oil pan leak at the front. I’m not going to attempt the rear main seal now I could make it worse. Of course it evolved into more. Had to replace motor mounts and get new bolts for the mount to engine bolts since they were corroded. The frame mount bolts after checking were all loose. Took the mounts off got new bolts. Used flange head bolts since on the inside of the frame is rough look like somebody attacked them with an impact. Those bolts are fairly easy to get at if you have a 9/16 universal socket not a universal and a socket but a swivel socket. Also, thought I’d check out the starter fairly dirty on the inside solenoid shift lever was worn. Found one on eBay an NOS shift lever solve that problem. Had to fight a little bit to get the motor mount through bolts to line up. I don’t know if others had this problem, probably due to both mounts being new, but a couple lineup bars took care of that. The Fel-Pro one piece gasket sure seems to be the ticket went in very easily. Also I did measure the opening at the front to make sure I did get the proper seal, and it required the thin seal. Now pull the transmission and change the shifter shaft seals. Correct me if I’m wrong but the reverse shifter shaft in the tail stock appears to have a pin that is driven out to remove that pretty straightforward should be reusable, correct? John S

Yea I saw you "working at Carlisle" 🤣 But I hear ya, just that MY time is money, between the tire kickers and no shows it can get a little frustrating.

Looks good, I prefer the derby caps. I also have a set of the small derbys from a 67 camaro on the car. but that's just my opinion. Enjoy the ride...

That 62 looks a lot like a friend of mine had redone just after ole red was completed. He passed away a few years ago and his car got sold and I do not know where it went. Maroon and silver 62 Impala very very nice car

I used VHT Flame Proof cast iron gray on my exhaust manifolds 10 years ago and it is holding up well.

I want to thank everybody who posted on this subject. All the info helped this old guy at 76 because I did these things years ago so I just don’t remember a lot of things. I took my Monte apart which I didn’t need to. I will finish this project and can’t wait to do cruise nights once again.

It's on whichever one you want. They both, the upper and lower do the same thing. Turn signal, stop and parking lights. They do it together, so it doesn't really matter in that way. As for where the factory installed it, idk. But who is going to take the cap off to check? Even if you are doing a concourse resto to be judged. Only you will know.

The assembly book kinda shows the fiber optic at the upper bulb, I think I can put it at the lower bulb, just because I will have extra length on the cable. Both bulbs do signal flashing and it shouldn’t matter.

Well now looks like it might be time to put the car away, here's what it's doing here today 😪