willie Posted December 4, 2023 Share Posted December 4, 2023 Brendan been there done that!!! Not really, had someone do it. I like Steve said WAAAAAYYY above my skill level!!! But just remember new panels are your friend! Once you put 2 new 1/4s and the filler panel in, She will look like a different car!!! Keep up the great work!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared Richey Posted December 12, 2023 Share Posted December 12, 2023 If you were closer to SC I could work you in my resto schedule to fix the rust. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 I've got the vinyl top, butyl rubber tape and major rust removed and cleaned up. I went through a bunch of heavy wire wheels and flapper discs. I picked away at it over the last couple of months, not having near as much time to work on the car as I would have liked (typical). I just cleaned it all up with acetone before I took these pics. Next step is to apply the rust reformer / primer to the whole top. I want to keep as much of the metal, and particularly the shape, as I can. It will make it easier to form the fiberglass correctly. It won't be perfect in the end but it will be A LOT better!!! Here we go ... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 Looks better already!!! Time to start some fiberglass work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 $285 at West Marine. Let's go!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 Ok, I've got the patches and first layer of fiberglass on. This stage always looks incredibly messy but it's actually a good start. Just wet the prepped metal with some resin, lay some fiberglass on it, then tap it with the tip of the resin-wetted brush. Tapping with the brush will push the resin into the cloth and get rid of any major air bubbles. From here I expect to go at with a 60 or 80 grit DA. After I get all of the high spots and edges down it will be prepped for the next layer. I'm hoping the next layer can be a full 4ft wide layer that will cover the whole roof. But I will probably have to fill some areas and build up and shape the big holes that we're missing so much metal. More later 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 Looking good Brendan. Remind of working Corvettes back in 70’ and 80’s. Just thinking about hs started me scratching the itch. LOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared Richey Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Less work to replace the roof and sail panels, definitely not a skill everyone has. It will get you riding without leaks though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted March 1 Author Share Posted March 1 A quick interim update. The first go at patching the holes with fiberglass went very well! I wasn't happy with a few spots so I cut the hardened glass out and filled with flox (resin with cotton fiber bonding). And I put a first layer of micro (resin with microspheres) over the glasses areas. I will be sanding them in a few minutes here and will report back. I'm only working the passenger side for now. The resin sets up too quick to work too large an area at once. Happy with where I am so far! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 A couple of small spots to fill and resand, but for the most part the passenger side is all done. On to that GIANT hole in the driver side!!! I haven't used any of the thick fiberglass mat that I bought yet. And only about 1/4 of the resin. I'd estimate that I'm about $100 to $150 in materials into this, and about 6 to 8 hours of glass and sanding work. Certainly a big $$ savings, but a good amount of time. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Wow what a change. Coming along nicely. Looking forward to seeing it when your done. Keep the pics coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 @Robert, yeah man, will do. I'm out in my garage right now. I just put the final primer-filler coat on the passenger side. And getting ready to do the initial 'gross sanding' on the driver side. I do think I will end up pulling the glass off that giant hole in the driver side sail panel and rethinking my approach - it needs more structure under it than what I was going to end up with on my initial approach. We shall see. Something creative will come to me! having fun, and looking forward to some spring driving!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 After nearly a month this rear window to trunk panel has finally shipped from SS396! Some more surgery coming up, but at least it's metal this time boyz haha 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve G Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Are you going to weld it in or bond it? I had opera windows in my Monte and I went with rivet/adhesive bonding to repair the holes. One thin coat of filler and it was done. I am going to put a vinyl top back on though so i don’t have to worry much about visual flaws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Panel bond is great stuff for sure but just remember vinyl top is not thick so make sure the flaws are very minor otherwise they will show through after the top is on. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 @Steve G and @cny first gen 71 I'm just going to bond it in, but will see to just use the resin and fiberglass that I've been using, and am familiar with. I will check out the 'Panel Bond' stuff though. I'm not planning on putting a vinyl top back on. Not sure what I'm going to do actually, but presumably paint it. The glass / micro work has come our VERY nice, and worthy of a good paint job for sure. Certainly good enough to vinyl over. And I do have all of the vinyl top trim still ... hmm, have to get the creative juices going here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Brendan you can paint the roof and put the trim back. Like the two tone cars. Saw this one while out for a walk . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 3 hours ago, Robert said: Brendan you can paint the roof and put the trim back. Like the two tone cars. Saw this one while out for a walk . Yeah, wow! That looks great! I'm definitely not getting rid of the vinyl top trim. Something to think about as I'm getting closer to finishing the work for the season. All of the little studs that hold the trim retainers on are long gone due to all of the rust. I would have to figure out where it's supposed to lay and then install some small screws with proper heads to hold the retainers in. But yeah, awesome idea and photo reference - thanks for posting that!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks71 Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 I would definitely use a thread sealant on the screws. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 47 minutes ago, B-Man said: Yeah, wow! That looks great! I'm definitely not getting rid of the vinyl top trim. Something to think about as I'm getting closer to finishing the work for the season. All of the little studs that hold the trim retainers on are long gone due to all of the rust. I would have to figure out where it's supposed to lay and then install some small screws with proper heads to hold the retainers in. But yeah, awesome idea and photo reference - thanks for posting that!!! Beldon speed sells the proper screws. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 7 minutes ago, Dtret said: Beldon speed sells the proper screws. Good to know, thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 Well this was a horrible task. I guess I have some work to do before I start installing this new panel. Ugh! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 @Steve G and @cny first gen 71 I've purchased a 200ml cartridge of 3M Panel Bond (see link below). And I'm going to borrow a 200 ml cartridge gun from my work, so I dont have to buy it (see link below). The cartridge comes with the mixing tips (swirls the 2 parts as you squeeze the cartridge with the gun, then throw away the tip after use) but I will grab more as needed Once I treat the rusty metal under the window to trunk panel with a rust reformer I'm probably going to throw a layer or two of glass over it as well to reinforce it. It's pretty thin. Then I will just bond the new panel place and use the panel bond as sort of a seam sealer too. Should be fun! And I should have this knocked out over the weekend. I still have to deal with that giant hole on the driver side at the base of the rear window and sail panel. Even though it looks somewhat finished in the above photos, there's no structure there. So I'm going to have to tear back into the area and rethink it. More panel bond, haha!! 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive, 08115, OEM Recommended, Two-Part Epoxy, 200 ml/6.75 fl oz Cartridge, Black https://a.co/d/9yNLFaL Innovations 200 ml (1:1 and 2:1) 26:1 High Thrust Dual Component Cartridge Gun https://a.co/d/05rt8ur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 The panel bond has to be used on clean bare metal, not sure if it will work over any kind of paint or fiberglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Man Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 17 minutes ago, cny first gen 71 said: The panel bond has to be used on clean bare metal, not sure if it will work over any kind of paint or fiberglass. Yep, agreed. I'm going to leave any bonding surfaces free of fiberglass. It's just that structure that I'm going to reinforce. I will cut away any glass on the bonding seams as needed once its all cured up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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