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1972 MC 350/Auto - Roof, Sail Panel and Trunk Repair / Replace


B-Man

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So as the title suggests, I'm starting down the path that many have paved before me. The vinyl top has just absolutely wrecked a good portion of the roof, both of the sail panels and continued down into the trunk. Ugh!!!

I really don't feel like finding a donor roof and welding it in. But obviously that's the common path. I don't know, maybe.

The path of least resistance for me is to cut out as much rust as I can, treat the rest, prime it and then lay fiberglass over it with a microsphere finish. I built a 4-seat airplane (real one) out of foam and fiberglass, so I have the experience and know how.

I don't know. We shall see. But starting here!

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Like cancer, that's just the surface that you see. 

I would personally, an have, change the 2 quarterpanels with either NOS or AMD. Also the panel between the rear window and trunk. As for the roof, the aftermarket now supplies a Monte Carlo specific roof skin. 

Kevin gets credit for removing and I stalling all metal. Lol he welds. I on the other hand do the bodywork and paint. We make a good pair. Lol

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Hats off to Kevin and Tom and Jr for tackling that. As Dennis said, i couldn't do that either!!

 

I know one thing Brendan, The snowball begins!!! Alot of work for sure!!

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Yeah, I'm not sure I'm up for all that work. I'm going to play around with some fiberglass in a few spots and see how it starts to go. Again, I have way more experience with fiberglass over metal!

For the piece between the rear window and trunk, I will definitely replace that with metal. For $60, why not. I have a good buddy local who can weld that in for me. In fact, he is horrified at the idea of me fiberglass repairing, but at least that means I won't be Knocking on his garage door!

Stay tuned folks!!

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7 hours ago, B-Man said:

 In fact, he is horrified at the idea of me fiberglass repairing, 

Listen to your buddy & Tom F. above, do the job right and replace the damaged panels with metal. It'll probably be quicker than trying to to use fiberglass and bondo, and will also help maintain the structural rigidity. The old saying, "Rust never sleeps", will come back to haunt you in the future, when it just pops back up again.

Yeah, it sucks, but it'll suck more in a year or two when you start to see it it pop back out again and realize you wasted a lot of time and money, that could have just been put towards doing it correctly in the first place. 

You planning to replace the vinyl top, or leave it off?

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A nice, driver-quality restoration is what I'm going for here. I've had so many cars that I put way too much time and money into, more out of interest and excitement than need. I'm now on a path of just really enjoying these old cars and preserving them a bit for the next guys/girls.

Anyway, yeah ... fiberglass with some metal backing (not rust, haha) is the plan. The plane I built is a Cozy MK IV. It's all fiberglass over foam core, with a few pieces of wood for the longerons. It was ALL structural. Pretty cool skill set. And I still have all of the tools :)

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I have to say Brendan, i have never seen anyone do it this way (fiberglass). So if that's what you are planning on doing, Please take a ton of photos so we can see how it done and the results!!

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It looks like the POR-15 crew actually sells a kit for restoring trunks and floor boards with what they call "Power Mesh" reinforcing fabric.  I like POR-15 in general, though a bit pricey.  Some of the Rustoleum products would probably work just as well for a roof application (vs trunk or floorboard) at a 10th of the cost.  So I may use some of the components of the POR-15 kit (metal prep, rust preventer, etc).  But I would use traditional BID or UNI fiberglass from a local supplier that I have used for years.

https://por15.com/collections/all/products/floor-pan-trunk-restoration-kit

@willie, I will definitely post some pics as I go along.  At the moment my challenge is to get rid of the goo left over from the thick, butyl rubber roofing tape that someone put over the rust holes many years ago.  It's incredibly gooey and sticky.  Goof Off, etc are all in play here!

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1 hour ago, B-Man said:

I'm now on a path of just really enjoying these old cars and preserving them a bit for the next guys/girls.

 ..fiberglass...Pretty cool skill set. 

Sorry, but I can't think of anyone that would want a vehicle that has been 'preserved' in that fashion.

As far as skill set, here's a perfect opportunity to expand you're skill set to include metal working. I can guarantee that you'll find those skills will serve you for many, many years beyond this project, in numerous ways around the home and shop.

 

1 hour ago, willie said:

I have to say Brendan, i have never seen anyone do it this way (fiberglass). 

There's a reason for that Willie.

 

Not trying to pick on you Brenden, but I just don't see the logic here. All the time, money and effort to 'clean the goo off', band-aid repair, etc, when you could simply use that effort to replace it, and have a long lasting result. It just seems like going to the barber shop, to get a broken leg repaired.

Again, sorry & good luck. I'll shut up now.

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Back in the days when I was on Guam, half the cars there were put back together with beer cans and bondo… Most of them actually looked good on the used car lots. What really amazed me was that many were purchased by our military and shipped back to the US. 

Average life expectancy for a so called "restoration" was about two years. We called them "Guam Bombs" because the rust would always eat away and bubble thru.. The beer cans never rusted.

My point being, the heroic effort to put and keep the classic cars on the road has become an art form in many places around the globe. Parts were not readily available in many places. 57 Chevys and other classics still roll in many places , some even have Toyota drive trains… 

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52 minutes ago, EVC said:

Parts were not readily available in many places. 

Correct parts are available for this repair though.

OK, now I'll shut up..😄

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Brendan, I'm in admiration of those who try to save cars like this. I'm sure you've value judged the car and it has a level of rust that can only be slowed down and never fully repaired…. My claim to this effort was my 56 Ford Crown Victoria. I'm sure she is still on the road and it's been 45 years since I owned it. Fix her and keep her rolling… 

I managed to get my junk yard car to a level that sparked the interest of a Ford Dealership who could afford to finish the job and make it a real show winner. 

The best you can hope for is to die in your sleep before your car rusts out.. LOL

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Not my car but in my opinion, I agree with Joe, the sheet metal repair would be my choice. If it was a old corvette then I would use fiberglass. Good luck with your project whichever way you go and like Willie said please update us with plenty of pictures.

 

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I just went this route, my car was in similar condition!

Full right quarter, full roof, rear deck filler panel, right wheel house, right trunk drop down, full left quarter just to get the sail panel.

$2,300 in parts, $4,000 for install.....

No more rust!

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Bob, your car turned out great, fantastic color selection as well.  I am sure, you will have no regrets in the future as having done it correctly in the beginning.  Now it's time to enjoy that beautiful ride !!!

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:dt:dtto what Joe and Tom said.  With the expanse of an area that needs to be filled and ytthe a.ount of rust that will be left untreated,  I can't see the fiberglass holding up.

rob

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My $.02 only!   As i am not and never claimed to be a body guy. (wish i knew half of what some of the members could do).  I as a non body guy would want the metal to cover my but incase of an accident. However Bobs car looks fantastic and if Brendan can do what he says i am all in to watch him do it and see what it is in the end. Why Not??

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Brendan like you I had limited knowledge and skills for metal fab and bodywork. Luckily for me there's a trades college not to far from where I live, that offers a 1 year part-time autobody coarse. Signed up and surprised myself, I really enjoy doing it. Finished the coarse with a grade of 96. Tied for highest mark in class. 0ldest person in class (58 at the time). Maybe there's something like that around your area. Never worked with fiberglass before so very interested in following .

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  • 3 weeks later...

So a month later, after a number of non-Monte delays I finally have a moment for an update to this thread.

I removed all or most of the goo glue from the butyl rubber roofing tape that's been in place for years. And I took some wire wheels and flapper discs to all the metal to see what I have to work with - not much, haha!

The rear window came out quite easily. And there is a ton of silicone around the edge. So I am not the first to go this far on this car, for sure.

I'm waiting for the trunk / window filler panel to come in before I remove the existing one. I want to make sure I leave enough metal to connect to of course. And in general I'm just figuring out ways to restructure what's here. I will eventually cut the rest of the Rusty edges out.

There's a can of POR15 and some primer in my near future, no doubt. The incoming fiberglass will bond really well to both.

Fun fun!

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I have to admire your determination.

I'd say follow your plan and the important thing is put her back on the road.  Make her beautiful and shiny again …. It's an art form and I've seen it done before.

With rust levels like this, you'd probably have to replace most of the sheet metal panels ,doors, possible fenders ,etc… At some point she will cease to be the same car. 

Personally, I'm a bit weary of seeing so called "restored" cars that are nothing more than an original frame with donor parts and newly stamped panels.  

She's yours, make her your own … 

Ed C. 

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