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Mini starter?


wallaby

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I'm looking into getting a new starter motor for my 454.

I'd like to upgrade to something more modern, like a gear reduction unit. My question is whether I should go with a production full size starter or a mini starter.

I don't really have any clearance issues, as the stock starter fits just fine...so it looks as if it's a matter of price and availability. I don't run point-type ignition, so the extra solenoid terminal isn't needed.

I have heard good things about the #6449 GM starter that came factory on just about every chevy truck 1994-2001, and I can easily get new or rebuilt units at my local parts store. These weigh just 8 lbs compared to the 22 lb original starter.

Starter6449.jpg

The other option is an aftermarket mini starter that might be harder to replace if it should go bad, and costs about $50 more. I have heard complaints of the "throw" being too short on these, resulting in less than full engagement with the flex plate. I don't want to deal with that. These mini starters weigh 11 lbs.

pwm-9612_w.jpg

 

I don't have high-compression, or trouble with the stock starter doing its job...I just want less battery draw and smooth, quiet operation. I guess I'm looking for someone here who has had some experience with a starter upgrade. Thoughts?

 

 

 

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So you guys with the mini starters aren't having issues with gear engagement? I was reading a lengthy post about a Summit brand unit that only came out far enough to mesh with about half of the thickness of the ring gear...it was eating up both the flex plate and starter pinion gears. It also had issues with the retaining bolts coming loose.

That E-bay unit has a price that's hard to beat. It has the in-line mounting pattern, but looks as if it can handle large dia ring gear as well. With a savings of nearly $100, it's food for thought.

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After removing the lower access cover on the TH350 it gave me a great visual of the meshing of these components. With the additional shims that came with the starter (in my previous post)and the instructions for precise measurements at the flywheel/flexplate, it was a piece of cake. Even an Iowa farmboy like me could figure it out............

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Never had an issue with my Hitachi-Style mini starter. I did have a issue with a gm style mini starter. It was not a gm and had nylon planetary reduction gears. It let me down in the final round of a race one weekend. Make sure what you a getting!

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Some of the mini starters out there have an "inline" bolt pattern and I thought our cars needed a "staggered" bolt pattern. Am I wrong on this?

 

Thanks!!

Mike

MOST SBC350 have an additional mounting hole (towards the block) and is visible without removing the starter. But......you have to slide under the car and look straight up at the starter mounting position, you will see another hole inline with the outward most bolt. This guys name escapes me now but he was really nice & accomodating to questions. I had called other people (retailers) to ask questions before I purchased and NONE called me or emailed me back. Guess who got the business!

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I just installed my new mini high-torque starter that Murphy recommended in an earlier post and it works great. I really like the sound of it cranking the engine. It doesn't sound at all like the older style starter and seems to have lots of power for my 383 engine (10.5 to 1 compression). I checked all of the clearances in the instructions and did not have to make any adjustments or use any shims they supplied. I may get another one as a spare.

 

Mike

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Interesting, I have been thinking about one of those mini starters when mine packs it in mostly to get some distance from the headers to the starter. Mine takes in a lot of heat when the engine is hot I can sure feel it struggling.

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I posted a little video in the "modifiers" section..the post was for flowmasters VS magnaflow comparison, anyway, you can hear the Monte start up, to get an idea of the cool sound these starters make.............

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I went ahead and got the Powermaster 9612:

pwm-9612_w.jpg

The starter is almost upside-down with the motor on top and the solenoid below. The fit is very nice; it came with the billet mounting plate as shown with the staggered and in-line pattern.

I had to use the included shim to move the motor far enough forward to allow the gear to fully disengage the flywheel.

There isn't much gap, though....looks like maybe .060-.080

I'm hoping that once the torque converter is bolted up it will pull the flex plate back a tad.

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  • 4 weeks later...

My Tilton starter died recently after about 20 years. I looked around at some different options and went cheap with a DB Electric starter. For $100 for a 3hp starter, I took the chance. http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1304-chevy...3-hp-mt200.aspx

 

I quickly found out that when it was heat-soaked, the solenoid would only click and it wouldn't turn over. They told me to put a relay... blah, blah, blah. I didn't need a relay with the Tilton, why with this? Then I realized I could put a Tilton solenoid on the DB starter- it works perfectly now.

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Some of the mini starters out there have an "inline" bolt pattern and I thought our cars needed a "staggered" bolt pattern. Am I wrong on this?

 

Thanks!!

Mike

 

I was told that most blocks have all three holes. 168 tooth flywheels typically use the staggered holes OR if you have a mini starter that has two sets of holes drilled in-line, you can use one of those. If you have the 153 tooth flywheel, you typically use the inline holes.

 

I have installed two DB Electric starters. I had a regular non gear reduction mini starter ($80) and it worked fine. I just ordered a 3hp gear reduction style starter and it spins the engine much faster and sounds better. I hope it doesn't have heat soak issues like mentioned earlier in this thread.

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