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About to order LED dash lights


thelastsession

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Have a question that I didn't see on any of the other threads. I feel like I have extra bulbs if you guys are only replacing 10. I have 8 BA9 style bulbs, has anyone replaced these single post style bulbs with an LED bulb?

 

If I count correctly I will need 10 194 style bulbs and 8 BA9 style bulbs, plus 2 more BA9 style bulbs for my console lights under my shifter. (will the bulbs work in the console?)

 

The car is a 1970. Does anyone have a pic of the back side of their cluster?

 

Thanks a lot

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Black 07ss, I will take pictures and post them once I'm done installing. I am going to do the red LED's and I plan on using 2 green bulbs for the blinkers. I have the cluster completely out right now, my clock is dead and I am going to be buying and installing a tach where the clock was.

 

This is the back of my cluster. I only have idiot lights (because its a 70 there are no small gauges) I have 2 extra bulbs here, 2 194 style and 2 BA9 style. (left side)

IMG_9978.jpg

What I mean- 194 style

IMG_9984.jpg

BA9 Style-

IMG_9982.jpgIMG_9983.jpg

 

Also, is this circuit board damaged on the part under the tab? I was going to replace it just to be sure, you can see its wrinkled a bit. It was working fine when I took it out but man that was a tight squeeze.

IMG_9980.jpg

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Keep in mind that the letting on the 70 cluster is green so the red blubs so you might end up with a odd color. Now on the 71-72 I could see doing the red color blubs as the gauges have a white tint to them vs the green tint found on the 70 gauges. You will not need green for the turn signal blubs as there is a green lens on the cluster housing.

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Hey Dustin, have you ordered your tach yet? Are you going with Shiftworks? PM me before you order, I have a new 70 tach from Shiftworks but I need a 71/72 style.....maybe we can make a deal??

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That's seems to make quite a difference, I've been considering doing something for mine as I also find those 194s to be quite dim. I assume the LEDs are dimmable with the headlight knob rheostat?

 

As far as your flexible circuit board goes it looks good to me. I've seen them in pretty bad shape and working. As long as the individual circuits are not cut you're good. I had a short in mine a few years back and was able to fix it by soldering in a splice from one I got in a junk yard. If you notice that some of the circuits are exposed, cover them up with some brush on (liquid) electrical tape, you don't want them to come into direct contact with any metal parts in the dash.

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the LED's are not dimmable by the factory head light switch. Here is my old stock 70 cluster with the strand 194 blubs 010-2.jpg and when I changed over to the LED's I stayed with the clear LED's 013.jpg the bottom left corner is dim as the blub was in wrong. Since those pictures that cluster has been removed in flavor of a newer style IMAG0047.jpg which has the display lit up during the day and at night.

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Thanks for sharing those photos, Robert. I am about to start a project to upgrade my dash cluster to full gauges and am also considering a conversion to LEDs at the same time.

 

In the last photo, I am wondering what the "newer style" of cluster is that you are referring to? I love the idea of the gauges being brightly illuminated during daylight (even with the headlight switch off) since they are so deeply recessed that I can't read them in full daylight when wearing the dark sunglasses I prefer here in sunny Florida.

 

Short of buying a totally different cluster, I wonder if there is any electrical change I can make to get the instrument panel to illuminate without the headlight switch on (i.e a parallel circuit powered off the IGN port that bypasses the headlight switch)? I suppose the simplest solution is to just engage the park/running lights during daylight driving.

 

On a lighter note, according to the gauge indications in the last photo, it looks like that photo was taken while you were cuising 145 mph and clocking 7300 rpms!!! grin Since neither of those conditions are likely, why do your gauges have non-zero rest positions?? Just curious ...

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Dennis the last picture is the Dakota digital cluster. That picture was taken while the cluster was in demo mode. I do have my stock cluster box up and for sale. When demo mode is not on the gauges do rest at zero for all the gauges in the cluster, the newer cluster has a elec speedo so change rear gear and tire size is easy.

 

Dennis to solve the head light item like you want I have seen on the Dakota digital website a system to give your car the automatic feature like newer cars. And they also have the feature for acc staying on after the switch is turned off.

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I have a question did you have to remove the dash to get the gauge cluster out or can this be done with just the pad of. I have to replace my circuit board and I hate the thought of removing the dash.

 

Leo

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You can remove the cluster by just undoing the bolts on the drivers side and the center bolt by the a/c control panel and loosen the passenger side to be able to pull the dash out at an angle. There is 7 1/4" or 5/16" headed bolts that hold the cluster to the dash which has to be removed along with the headlight switch and the speedo cable.

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Leo,

If you like, check out the pictures I took several years ago when I pulled the heater core and entire dash from my 71 NO A/C Monte. I added a few tips to the pictures about removing the headlight switch knob, speedometer cable, clock knob and the shift indicator cable. If any help, great.

Bruce

71 NO A/C Heater core replacement pictures

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I have heard that a 168 bulb has 3 candlepower, the 194 has only 2. They both fit in the same socket.

 

It might not make a tremendous difference, but it's a cheap step in the right direction.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Superbrightleds.com has dimmable led replacements. A nice vehicle search section as well. I like the Dakota Digital dash, but a little out of the budget at this time. I'll try the superbrights first.

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