Leaderboard

Got the engine bay and some of the chassis parts sanded, primed and painted. I used POR-15 for parts I couldn’t remove enough rust from, and zinc 182 primer on bare metal and over some existing paint. Final coat in 30% gloss urethane enamel. Just 1k in a rattle can. Pretty Pleased with the result!

The Hot Rod Power Tour Long Haul in 2018 put the water pump on its way out. Car got parked in late 2020 for repair. Last year I acquired a nice nos radiator from Mr. Richey here as the car has traditionally had flow related heating issues. I have both a low miles takeoff 72 corvette water pump and a rebuilt one to choose from. While I am there, I am doing belts, hoses, thermostat, fuel filter, and replacing the fuel line from pump to carb to get rid of the aftermarket filter that has been there 20 years. Previously I removed all the hoses and lines and drained fluid. Today, I pulled the top plate, radiator, shroud, then hopped in and got the clutch fan. Loosened all belts, AC could just sit there, removed alternator, and PS pump is hanging on one bolt and hoses. Pulled water pump, thermostat, and fuel line, and called it good for the day. Taped up the ports in new radiator for leak check and flushing and did that. I am checking to make sure I have everything. I need to replace some bolts and chase some threads, the thermostat housing into intake bolts I don't want to reuse. The long alternator bolt was galled to the aluminum but turns, and the threads are fine. Please pardon my aftermarket radiator jug, it has been there 50 years and my grandfather put it on. It does well where it is. The red heater hoses on the floor in one pic are staying gone, however.

Montelishi's First cruise gathering !!! Over 200 cars at a local mall, but she was the only one of her kind.

15 of 20 photographed.

Which molding’s are you looking for? All the lowers I got from the parts place. A little thinner then original but I think they look really good.

The drip rail, window, and vinyl moldings are stainless, so they'll clean up with any metal polish. I've heard that they're flash chromed, so if you get too aggressive you may see a color difference where you break through. Unless the trim has huge scratches I would just use a wadding polish like Nevr-Dull, small scratches become hard to see when it's shiny. I believe the rocker trim on the very bottom is stainless as well. The quarter and wheel moldings are bright anodized aluminum, so they're harder to clean up. You could remove the anodizing and polish them, but you'll need to keep up on it. Some places say that they can clear powder coat polished aluminum, or you can try chrome powder coat with a clear on it. That's my eventual plan.

iCloud Photos.html

My dad's 1966 Olds 98 had power windows and I remember one of the wires broke on the drivers side door from thousands of times the wire harness was bent opening and closing the door. I did tape it together but it was very tight, no room.

1) I don't use adhesive on mine. Too much of a pain to clean off down the road. 2) I have had the same problems with the push retainers they include with the weatherstrip. A trim screw would work, but I bought a box of plastic ones that work fine. Got them from my paint supplier locally, but probably available online. (ebay has them in multiple places for around $10-12 with free shipping) 3) I clean & grease the mechanisms when I'm in there. That old grease is 50 years old and typically hard.

Not much to report but things have been moving on my Monte. They discovered a little rocker panel rust, all rusty sections were cut out and new metal was welded in. Very small amount of rust was found on the front fenders behind the front wheels. Repaired accordingly. All new body mounts were installed, and used replacement GM door hinges were rebuilt. I ordered 2 doors from Leo, and they arrived a few months ago. My shop sent them out to be blasted and they came back as expected...rust free. But one had a dent in it, not sure if it was covered up by bondo, or if it fell and got dented after blasting. My body shop said they would take care of it. Much easier to fix a dent then work with a rusty door. I'll check on it this week and see if any progress has been made. He lets me keep my enclosed trailer on his property, and I need to pick it up and trade it for a new one. When I was moving to Fl. I pulled my car into the trailer and couldn't get out. Too large (fat), so I guess I need a trailer with a left side escape door. More money. Pictures to follow

I got all of mine from Leo Konick of Konicks Klassics

My sympathies on the cat. I like both cats and dogs; it's a different relationship.

So I finally got the gap closed up and the wheel houses are welded in. The quarter is 95% welded on except the rear and around the rear window. Going to get the rear window filler panel put in before I button that up. I ended up removing about a quarter inch section of the front of the outer wheel house where it meets the rocker panel. That allowed me to rotate the wheel house slightly. That helped the gap. After that it was lots of test fitting and using clamps to get it in position. Im pretty happy with it. I talked to a body man that has worked on several A-bodies over the years and he says the wheel houses didnt fit very good straight from the factory. Ill try to get some pictures up.

Single adjustable allows you to adjust the shock's rebound while double adjustable lets you adjust compression and rebound. The upper control arms need to add caster; not all of the no-name control arms do this. I'm running Summit Racing 'premium' control arms, which look to be whiteboxed Ridetech arms. If you're running coilovers I would recommend lower control arms made specifically for coilovers instead of springs as they allow a coilover with greater travel. QA1, UMI, and Ridetech all make arms designed for their coilover systems and they're all around the same cost. For the rear I would recommend a kit that either reinforces the stock shock mount or doesn't use it at all, like the Global West system. If you use the upper shock mounts I would get a stiffener bar to tie them together. The cars weren't really made to support the ride weight on the upper mounts.

A few items to add to my collection. The model Kit will be a Harry Gant #77 Sportsman Stock Car. I already have the correct decals.

Took mine out today, cleaned it up from the nationals then went out to see my grand kids. My grand daughter wanted to sit in the car and was playing with the crank window. My grandson walked all the way around like he was inspecting it to make sure its still good for when he gets older.

Dennis there is going to be alot of fixing before you sell it, its called restoring her!!!! And your well on your way!!! lol and when your done even i will have one with you!!