Leaderboard

KYB has been around for just over 100 years, so they must be doing something right. They make a good shock. Had them on my 78 3/4 ton Chevy truck and they lasted many years. The consensus is the Bilsteins are better. But they’re twice as much money, and depending on your budget, and with the other modifications you are doing, the $$ rack up quickly, so I get where you’re coming from.

Finally got the new tires on and the carb tuned !!! Took her for her first real run of the season........ So glad spring is here !!!

I used the sem trim black like Dennis suggested to you on my son's dash before doing the chrome trim with a paint marker.

In a few days we will be leaving the 50's in our countdown and entering uncharted territory, for this year, because we are now at 53 days and a wake-up until our first members begin arriving in Carlisle to begin our Eastern Meet. rob

Just saw this, figured it was right down Glens alley 🤣 I know its a 77 but a vert !

No need to worry about A/C in that !!!

What rear end are you using? The 12 bolt has a longer pinion than a 10 bolt. Also the u- joint is made by a few companies. It used to be called a "trick" joint by Lakewood. Moog also makes it, I believe it's called a "combo" joint. It has the 350 big caps and the 400 small caps.

SEM makes real nice interior trim paint. You can get it anywhere that sells automotive paint

That’s not cruise control. That’s the rare electro tip wiper control.

Thank all for the suggestions. Surgery has put me behind on this so nothing to report back yet. Will let you know when I get some "feel better" time to try the suggestions.

I wonder if we can find the real owner of that internet pictured car, and maybe get him to be a club member...

In 54 days and a wake-up our first members will start arriving in Carlisle for our 2024 Eastern Meet.

Might require some type of a crane/elevator system to get all the passengers loaded though....

Call Denny's driveshafts. They'll have solutions/answers to all of your concerns. Top notch workmanship too. https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/index.html

They sure do. Their color coat automotive interior paint works well. They also make a mild solvent based wax and grease remover for prep, which is extremely important because of all the silicone based spray and wipe protectants used on interiors. Silicone is a painters worst nightmare.

Rather ambitious pricing, I would say. It would make for a great parts car if you was doing a restoration.

They are asking $39900

“Ain’t nuthin’ wrong with the radio!” Somebody’s dreaming with that reserve … JMO

Willie, I went through my build sheet for my 71, and as Glen said, there’s nothing that addresses the s/b holders for the console.i just assumed that at least on the 71s, they all had them. My first 71 that I bought in 74 had them. As for the chrome trim, I’m sure it was necessary to keep the mounting screws from pulling through the somewhat soft material the cups were made of over time.

Willie, I see nothing obvious on the ‘70s Build Sheet that would lead me to believe it appeared as a “code”. I’d ASSUME that if it did appear it might be logical to be located near the seatbelt boxes (#87 and #88). For what it’s worth, there ARE seven boxes missing on the BS, so I guess there’s always the possibility it may have populated one of those. The picture I have for the ‘71 is garbage… so blurry it resembles hieroglyphics. I’ll have to check that another time and get back to you.

Yes Glen, those are the ones i seen, minus the chrome strip on all the consoles. But what Lyle posted looks like what i seen in the pic from that Gentleman at Carlisle on the bottom of the back seat. Tkx for the pics, cars look great!!!

Its in the safe 🤣 Registration and Ins will have to do I'll pull the plates of just so there will always be some questions 🤣

Nope, all my Monte pic's are mine . Its easier to keep the story straight if your the only one telling it 🤣

But, did Glen provide you with a photo shopped photo? rob

I asked for a legitimate title months ago.

After looking at my old harness, it appears that the power for that switch goes thru the Radio/TCS Solenoid 10 Amp fuse, thru the power bulkhead in the engine compartment, and then to a short pigtail harness that goes thru a hole in the firewall to the Accelerator switch. From there, it would go to the transmission mounted switch. Dave and I were on the phone a few times and were both using multimeters at the same time, on our perspective harnesses, figuring out the circuit, lol. He doesn't appear to have power coming thru the engine side wire, which could be as simple as a poor connection at the bulkhead mating halves, or as bad as a broken wire. He tried to move the bulkhead connection a bit, but its location, plus it being bolted together produced no favorable results. We decided, If later attempts to re-seat the bulkhead don't work, a short jumper from a switched fuse block stab will work to power up the circuit. None of the diagrams or manuals I have showed that accelerator pedal switch.

Bilsteins arrived. Found a coupon for a few extra bucks off. Saved $100 buying them in the BMR kit from Jegs.

I guess it may be time to start to figure out where "Big Red" is and see what, if anything she may need after a LONG winters nap. 🤔

Dan aka Overdrive fabricates the brackets. They are a work of art. I have them on "Big Red" absolutely beautiful!

Denny, Dan (overdrive) makes the brackets. I thought I just saw that he posted a set. I bought them from Dan years ago, they are identical to factory. The diaphragm will be a hard find. Someone on the forum made some at one time. overdrive - First Generation Monte Carlo Club (firstgenmc.com)

Hi David, Have you had anything rebuilt ? Assuming that you're running a stock engine, I'd look for some type of a vacuum leak. Might even be in the modulator or the carb. I've also read that an open element air filter can affect engine vacuum at high rpm's, Another factor is also the rear axle ratio...... Once you're up in that speed range, there's not much left to dig into. Just a couple ideas. Hope you get things figured out.

Hey Dennis, Another thought.... Are there any kinks in the cable ? And, are the ends of the cable that mount to the controller and housing secure ? I'm talking about the little tab ends with the hole for the screw. Sometimes if they're loose, they'll twist and bind the cable. Just a thought you might want to check. Scott.

Corrosion in the cable or on the "hinge" mechanism might be the problem. If you can get to them, a little penetrating oil might solve the problem.

Hi Thomas, The th400 has a 32 spline output shaft whereas the th350, 200r4, and 700r4 all have 27 splines.... so you'll have to change the transmission end of your driveshaft no matter which one you choose. The 200r4, which is the one I went with, is pretty much a bolt in, excepting for moving the cross member back. (350 cid/th350) and trimming the balance weight at the transmission end. The th400 cross member is different and the transmission is a couple inches longer, so you will have to find/build a new driveshaft. I've also read that there's minor clearance issues using the th400. Personally, I like the 200r4 for the wider gear ratios (0.67 to 1 overdrive and 2.67 to 1 first gear) for highway driving. But if you choose the 200r4, make sure you get it rebuilt with heavy duty internals..... 400 hp is a lot for the original "off the shelf" units where as the th400 could take that kind of hp. As for the rear gears, 3.55 should make a nice street/highway combination.... Montelishi originally had 2.73's, which are really nice on the open road, but a little lagging at the stoplight. I eventually went to the 3.42's. Still a little slow at the light, but I've pulled around 20 mpg on the highway with them. There are a few threads here that discuss who likes which better, I'm sure more will weigh in eventually. Good Luck with your swap, Scott.