Got some new junk.

[Dtret]

So when I was picking up load one of this junk , I started my truck and noticed an exhaust leak. Who would have thought that the exhaust manifold to head bolts would just break off. If you look at the picture close you notice the rear has been broken for awhile, the closer one , by the wire (hard to see), was fresh. You can see the clean metal. Now I have to pull that manifold off to get the rear bolt out. So what are the chances that I get the other 4 bolt out of the head and get the pipe off the manifold ? This is gonna suck. 

[1970mcss]

Maybe the yellow truck is an option....

[Dtret]

8 minutes ago, 1970mcss said:

Maybe the yellow truck is an option....

A new truck is in the future plan but not that one. Lol. I want a 3/4 ton. 

[1970mcss]

5 hours ago, Dtret said:

A new truck is in the future plan but not that one. Lol. I want a 3/4 ton. 

I understand, and a bowtie.

 

[DragCat]

8 hours ago, Dtret said:

A new truck is in the future plan but not that one. Lol. I want a 3/4 ton. 

And a diesel , for when you finally finish all your Monte projects and buy a stacker trailer for Carlisle 🤣

[Dtret]

16 minutes ago, DragCat said:

And a diesel , for when you finally finish all your Monte projects and buy a stacker trailer for Carlisle 🤣

I may need a semi tractor and a pull behind parking lot. Lol. I guess I won’t need the 3/4 ton. Lol. 

[714024SPEED]

Have the same problem on my truck . I'm just afraid of opening up that can of worms to fix it. Once it gets hot the exhaust leak goes away.

[cny first gen 71]

That is a real common problem on those, my 03 and my 11 both did the same thing. Ticking when first started then goes away when it warms up. I guess a guy good with a welder can weld a nut to the remaining stud and back it out, or so I'm told but tge manifold has to come off. I've learned to live with it.

[Dtret]

1 hour ago, 714024SPEED said:

Have the same problem on my truck . I'm just afraid of opening up that can of worms to fix it. Once it gets hot the exhaust leak goes away.

Exactly to all the above. Do I tackle it today, supposed to get around 60, or just wait till spring. I have zero motivation to do it because I know what’s going to happen. 

[Dtret]

10 minutes ago, cny first gen 71 said:

That is a real common problem on those, my 03 and my 11 both did the same thing. Ticking when first started then goes away when it warms up. I guess a guy good with a welder can weld a nut to the remaining stud and back it out, or so I'm told but tge manifold has to come off. I've learned to live with it.

I’ve always had the ticking issues. Since new. Gm says it’s piston slap. Don’t worry about it, it’s fine. Just like the brake lines. Lol. But yet I remain a loyal gm guy. I probably need my head examined. ( quiet smart guy’s). 

[cny first gen 71]

You know what's going to happen! So plan ahead,  like I said I've learned to live with it.

[71SSclone]

So, since no one else asked. Are any parts for sale??

[Dtret]

1 hour ago, 71SSclone said:

So, since no one else asked. Are any parts for sale??

I will have a ton of parts for sale. Eventually. I have to pick out the stuff I need for the 70SS, the 72 W Custom and the 70 4 speed car. And I have the 72 nothing fancy car that I might get running and driving just to sell. 

[Dtret]

So I finished my pressing yard work and decided to tackle the truck. Phase one was a success. I got the manifold to pipe nuts off within breaking anything. Rust belt people, buy the infrared heater. Several different brands out there now and the pricing is not to bad. 

[jft69z]

20 minutes ago, Dtret said:

So I finished my pressing yard work and decided to tackle the truck. Phase one was a success. I got the manifold to pipe nuts off within breaking anything. Rust belt people, buy the infrared heater. Several different brands out there now and the pricing is not to bad. 

 

That tool has saved me a few times as well. Another example of 'not cheap', but works well.

[cny first gen 71]

I got lucky on mine when we switched it from single to dual exhaust my buddy built the 2 front pipes but when he took it apart he used an impact on the manifold nuts they came right off no problem and they were the original nuts and studs and original steel gaskets and were good enough to reuse on the new pipes he built. I know it came from California originally but I don't think it ever saw snow or salt.

[Dtret]

So an alive at 5:00 update. Breaking news. Manifold removal went fine. I even got the one stud that had the head broken off extracted. Well the very rear one isn’t going to happen. It’s broken off about a 1/4 inch into the head. No straight shot to get it out. I’m not pulling the head or the engine. So I did a little investigating and apparently this is a very common issue, as noted, and there is a clamp made specifically designed for this issue. See photos. I’ll let you know how it works. 45 bucks at the Zone. Cheaper online but I’m not waiting. I’m going to press my good luck here and do the passenger side also ( one broke but I should be able to extract it). Stay tuned for further updates. 

[DragCat]

4 hours ago, Dtret said:

 And I have the 72 nothing fancy car that I might get running and driving just to sell. 

Thats funny ........the selling part not the driving part 🤣

[EVC]

On 11/3/2023 at 5:24 AM, Dtret said:

So when I was picking up load one of this junk , I started my truck and noticed an exhaust leak. Who would have thought that the exhaust manifold to head bolts would just break off. If you look at the picture close you notice the rear has been broken for awhile, the closer one , by the wire (hard to see), was fresh. You can see the clean metal. Now I have to pull that manifold off to get the rear bolt out. So what are the chances that I get the other 4 bolt out of the head and get the pipe off the manifold ? This is gonna suck. 

Not to interrupt,  but if this is an LS engine there is an easy fix.

On the back of the head is an extra bolt hole. There is a reach around piece of cast metal that will bolt to the rear of the  head and it has a bolt on the front that will torque and hold to the required specs.  It's comes as a kit and I believe you can get it on Amazon… I did my wife's Yukon about three years ago and it works. This bolt on the corner has a propensity for breaking because of the heat and being over torqued.. I believe it needs to be torqued to about 10 to 15 ...lbs. Most people over torque because it sounds ridiculously low. 

[Dtret]

2 hours ago, DragCat said:

Thats funny ........the selling part not the driving part 🤣

I don’t want 5. 6 if you count my 88 Monte, 7 if you count the Chevelle. Besides it’s just a 72 who would want that?  Might I interest you in an actual car?  Lol. 

[Dtret]

2 hours ago, EVC said:

Not to interrupt,  but if this is an LS engine there is an easy fix.

On the back of the head is an extra bolt hole. There is a reach around piece of cast metal that will bolt to the rear of the  head and it has a bolt on the front that will torque and hold to the required specs.  It's comes as a kit and I believe you can get it on Amazon… I did my wife's Yukon about three years ago and it works. This bolt on the corner has a propensity for breaking because of the heat and being over torqued.. I believe it needs to be torqued to about 10 to 15 ...lbs. Most people over torque because it sounds ridiculously low. 

See pictures above. 

[Dtret]

So I went for the passenger side before I put the driver side back together. My thought was to pull the bolts and move the manifold towards the wheel and get the broken stud out that way I wouldn’t have to pull the pipe off the manifold. It worked. Stud extracted. Reassembling begins. I wish I would have bought parts for both sides instead of the one. O well. 

[EVC]

I believe the bracket is a better fix than replacing the bolt, especially for a vehicle used for heavy towing.. There is a lot of heat at this location. Mine broke off even with the head and would have been a nightmare to fix. 

[71SSclone]

22 hours ago, Dtret said:

I will have a ton of parts for sale. Eventually. I have to pick out the stuff I need for the 70SS, the 72 W Custom and the 70 4 speed car. And I have the 72 nothing fancy car that I might get running and driving just to sell. 

I'd be interested in some dashboard parts. Took mine out last week and there seems to be some butchery going on that I did not know about.

John

[jft69z]

34 minutes ago, 71SSclone said:

.... there seems to be some butchery going on that I did not know about.

 

That happens more than you think, lol.

I have a job I'm working on now that came from a restoration shop. Their paint/body is very good, but whoever they have do their electrical and finish work are butchers. Botched up a new American Auto Wire harness, wrong circuits landed, mis-matched colored wires for add-on circuits, plastic wire taps on a bunch of wires, butt splices everywhere (especially if they cut the wires too short and added a foot), etc.

Gave me a perfect opportunity to add a Dakota Digital dash though, customer loves it!

 

(yep, another thread hi-jack)

 

Tip of the iceberg:

 

Cleaned up, wired properly & used harness tape to tidy it up:

 

Initial Start-up, still have some programming to do.