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Rancid87

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Everything posted by Rancid87

  1. I have an FTI th400 in my Camaro and it has been great. I wouldn't replace a transmission over the broken mounting tab though.
  2. You can try to shim the corner of the quarter extension to get a better fit with the trunk lid but that gap is kind of large. What does the filler panel to trunk gap look like?
  3. These projects are an accumulation of small victories. Looks like you're winning! Good job!
  4. The 72 Chevelle drum brake setup will be the same as the Monte.
  5. Yeah, a breather on one side and a PCV on the other.
  6. A PCV valve is the way to go if your valve covers have good baffles.
  7. A competent machinist could likely repair that shaft for you. It's worth looking into!
  8. I'd just drill it out and install a new cylinder. At leastyou will have the key!
  9. You can find those on McmasterCarr. Just search for isolation mounts. I bought some from them for the AC condenser though I didn't end up using them.
  10. Looks great! It's a nice feeling when it starts to look like a car again!
  11. I converted a first gen camaro to floor shift and ended up cutting the column sleeve to remove the boss for the shifter stick. After it was filled and smoothed it looked like a factory floor shift column.
  12. I think the cutlass upper quarters give it a finished look. I like it.
  13. Ebay is a good source for new in box Delco Remy battery cables if you wanted original looking cables. I ended up finding one that was a replacement for my car. The other one I bought was too long but I was able to remove the terminal, shorten the cable, and reinstall the terminal.
  14. If you have a way to brake a strip of sheet metal at a crisp 90 degrees you can make those sections yourself. If you need to repair the channel that runs the length of the windshield a shrinker/stretcher will help provide the correct shape.
  15. If the panel under the deck filler is decent I'd clean it up and section the replacement panel to fit in there. If you are going to need to replace one or both quarter panels than I'd remove and replace it completely. Kevin's got the right idea, though!
  16. C clip eliminators are prone to leaking. With the ford housing ends you will get a larger bearing that bolts to the housing end. If you are doing the work yourself and do not want to weld the ends on than the C clip eliminator may be the way to go.
  17. I'd go with ford 9" housing ends before I did the C-clip eliminators. If you are concerned with axle retention in the event of failure you could upgrade to rear disc brakes.
  18. I cleaned the frame the best I could with wire wheels on angle grinders and a needle scaler and then sprayed it with the Mastercoat paint I mentioned a few posts up. The first two coats were the rust sealer (similar to por 15 and gray in color) and then a satin black top coat(also from mastercoat). I was pretty happy with it and ended up using the same paint for the radiator support and the underside of the car and the firewall. I sprayed it on with a cheap hvlp gun. You can get a kit that has a quart of the sealer and a quart of the black paint for $85+shipping. That is enough for a frame for sure.
  19. I used Mastercoat on the frame of my Monte and used an HVLP spray gun to paint it. I'm in NJ so decided to give it a try since it's an NJ based business. I've been pretty happy with it.
  20. Core value on used engines is just my personal opinion. By all means get as much as you can for it!
  21. I replaced the roof skin on mine. Overall, a pretty easy job. You'll have to make a couple small filler pieces in the back but it didn't take very long to do it.
  22. I'd pay core value for something like that. Maybe $4-500 tops.
  23. My brother has one. It seems like a good option if you are just using it for commuting and the occasional trip to home depot or lowes. I was not impressed with it towing a dump trailer full of stones though so if you plan to do any kind of towing it is something to consider.
  24. If you slice the beaded areas you can bend the panel to a 90 pretty easily. Then just weld the reliefs and grind them smooth. I ended up cutting the outer portion off and then added a couple strips so the tail panel could mount to it. Putting the body on the frame would make it pretty easy to line up(id use new body mount bushings all around). If you get lucky maybe you will find a tail panel that still has a piece of good trunk floor. That would make for a nice install like John's!
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