Crom Cruach Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 Local mechanic is advising me to replace the water pump, get the rad cleaned and sealed, and replace hoses. the water pump is likely the original. Looking at a high flow aluminum “Proform Parts 67265” from summit. Would you be inclined to go for this one, or an AC Delco, or even leave the old one in there? The coolant was getting out and it looked like overheating, but I found the overflow hose was blocked and it hasn’t leaked since. Don’t fix what ain’t broke, or preventative maintenance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 If it's not leaking and has no play in it why replace it? How does the anti freeze look? What kind of shape are the hoses in. You probably don't need to upgrade to a performance water pump but if it needs to be replaced do insist on a new unit not rebuilt. It's not a real hard job to do either just make sure you clean where the gaskets go good. If you do replace it that would be the time to do anything else the cooling system needs too. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 FWIW, when I got my Griffin aluminum radiator, they specifically said NOT to use a high flow water pump. They suggested a stock replacement pump. They want the coolant to stay in the rad for sufficient time to ensure heat transfer, otherwise it's just recirculating hot coolant in the system. Granted, it's a high performance radiator vs. a stocker, but they're the 'experts'. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 I may not be that knowledgeable on these performance water pumps but I can give you an example from where I worked at about water flow and heat transfer. I spent 29 years in the natural gas business working at compressor stations. One of our stations upstream from where I worked had a problem with the engines running hot particularly in the summer. One of the old original pipeliners that I worked with noticed that they were running both auxiliary water pumps for these engines. He stated the water was traveling too fast through the engine to properly transfer heat. He told the superintendent at the station to shut off one of the water pumps , it was hard to get an old guy to do this because it had run a certain way for over 25 years but he shut down one of the water pumps. That changed the flow rate and did not have any more heat problems from those engines. Evidently the flow of the water was correct to get a proper heat transfer and keep the engines at a consistent temperature. John S 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 My .02 is if it aint broke leave it alone. If you do be sure to replace short for short or long for long. And like Steve said, if you do might not be a bad idea to check /change other coolant related items 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 A good flush and a new thermostat may be in the cards too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted June 29, 2022 Author Share Posted June 29, 2022 4 hours ago, Scott S. said: A good flush and a new thermostat may be in the cards too.... I ran the garden hose through with the engine running for 10 minutes, is that a good flush, or are you talking about a professional treatment Scott? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 I think that’s good enough for the engine and radiator but there’s a good chance the heater valve didn’t open so you may not have got the heater core and hoses. It wouldn’t have gotten warm enough to open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted June 29, 2022 Author Share Posted June 29, 2022 So, same but for longer? Chemical flush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 3 minutes ago, Crom Cruach said: So, same but for longer? Chemical flush? I don’t recommend chemicals. But the best option for the heater core is to to pull the hoses. I do recommend warm to hot water. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420ponies Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 I have done the flush on heater core. Yup ,remove your heater hoses at engine hot water in,see how much flow you have. If not what is going in, you need to fill with 50% distilled vinegar, let set over night, drain ,then hot water again.You'll see the stuff holding back flow. I used an old hose end and plastic tube clamped to heater hose on the inlet side(hose coming from water pump). We call that a MacGyver move over in the States. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted June 30, 2022 Author Share Posted June 30, 2022 While I have you guys here - should the bottom of the shroud be tucked inside the rad mount (first photo), or outside and held on with clip (2nd pic)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted June 30, 2022 Share Posted June 30, 2022 Bottom pic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted June 30, 2022 Share Posted June 30, 2022 20 hours ago, Crom Cruach said: I ran the garden hose through with the engine running for 10 minutes, is that a good flush, or are you talking about a professional treatment Scott? Nope... Just the garden hose while running. When the water runs clear, most of the chemicals are out. P.S. Drain the old A/F first, less mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted June 30, 2022 Share Posted June 30, 2022 20 hours ago, Dtret said: I think that’s good enough for the engine and radiator but there’s a good chance the heater valve didn’t open so you may not have got the heater core and hoses. It wouldn’t have gotten warm enough to open. You can always remove it for the flush.... If you're talking about the thermostat. The hearer valve is controlled by a cable to the inside, if I'm reading you right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted June 30, 2022 Share Posted June 30, 2022 The cable controls the air flow to the interior of the car. It opens and closes the flapper doors under the dash. The heater core always flows at engine temperature with thermostat open. It’s controlled by a valve on the fender well (70) or by the valve on the intake (71). I’m not sure about 72, I don’t have one. Yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted June 30, 2022 Share Posted June 30, 2022 72 doesn't have a coolant control valve in the engine compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted July 1, 2022 Share Posted July 1, 2022 22 hours ago, Dtret said: The cable controls the air flow to the interior of the car. It opens and closes the flapper doors under the dash. The heater core always flows at engine temperature with thermostat open. It’s controlled by a valve on the fender well (70) or by the valve on the intake (71). I’m not sure about 72, I don’t have one. Yet. O.K... Weird question, I have a flushing tee in my heater return line that only leaked (through the cap) when I used the heater. Otherwise it never gave me any problem. Why would that happen ? P.S. I've since replaced the gasket in the cap and solved the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted July 1, 2022 Share Posted July 1, 2022 When the heater selector is off the vacuum closes the valve slowing water flow at a low pressure ( that’s why you always get some heat out the vents when it’s off). When you turn it on it opens the valve and releases full pressure to the heater core and hoses. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 So there is some type of flow regulation at the heater.... Can this valve be located inside the heater box ? My '70 doesn't have a valve on the fender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 No. All 70's had it on the passenger side fender well. Without a valve, hot water constantly flows through the heater core, when the engine is warmed up. Unless you have an aftermarket heating/ a/c system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 I've never had the heater apart, so I couldn't say for sure, but there's no valve on the fender.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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