Crom Cruach Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Just installed a new starter this morning, runs lovely. However when I turned ignition off, and even removed the key, the engine stayed running for 10 or 20 seconds. I never had this issue before with the old starter, although now I think of it, sometimes the (awful) seat belt alarm would keep buzzing for a second with the key out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotinrob Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Did you replace with a standard GM starter or a mini-starter? Also do you have an electric fan on the radiator? rotin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 I believe it’s OEM replacement. Powermaster 3510 OE / Retro High Torque Starter w/ Solenoid 168 Tooth no electric fan, all standard. The GEN and OIL lights are on with the key out too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Had a similar problem with mine when I tightened the solenoid wires the one terminal broke and turned a little bit inside shorting it our internally in the solenoid I replaced it and it was fine after. I don't remember the lights being on but that was a few years back. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 4 hours ago, rotinrob said: Did you replace with a standard GM starter or a mini-starter? Also do you have an electric fan on the radiator? rotin It’s high torque but OEM shape and fitment. I guess that’s not the same as standard GM. I Didn’t overtighten, but my god it’s fiddly under axle stands trying to get at those solenoid nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Based on the 3510 part number, that’s the same number that most all aftermarket ( rebuilt) starters use got that model. That part number works on most small and big blocks for a lot of years. Same thing my 71 used. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Just wait until you put the headers in..... It's definitely got a short in the wiring. How's it for re-starting ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Check to make sure you didn’t pinch a wire between the starter and the block. Just spit balling here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 It needed a push of the gas to get her started, but it’s cold here and hasn’t started in a few weeks. Sounded lovely when running, and the starter sounded strong. it wouldn’t have anything to do with the seats being out would it? Or the steering wheel change? I guess I better look for a pinched wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 I’d say no on the seats, not sure about the steering wheel but I doubt it. Giving a push of the pedal is normal for carb cars. First push actually activates the choke if it’s original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 I had starter problems when I first got my car. New starter shouldn't be the problem but my car had a wire shorting out on the block so I just changed all the wires to the solenoid for piece of mind. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Is the battery draining when the key is off ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 1 hour ago, Crom Cruach said: It needed a push of the gas to get her started, but it’s cold here and hasn’t started in a few weeks. Sounded lovely when running, and the starter sounded strong. e If you have the owners manual and look at how to start the car you will see that this is normal. It is not like a fuel injected car so what Dennis said explains that the push of the pedal when starting is normal and that first push is to set the choke. I have always gotten in, pumped the pedal 3 times and then turn the key. rob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 Interesting, In that case it started beautifully, and it seems I have my rough idle vacuum issue sorted too. I’m thinking Dennis’s pinched wire theory is plausible here. forum search for dieseling brought up the idle solenoid, but it wasn’t a problem before so maybe not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 I had a dieseling problem. Advanced timing was the key for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotinrob Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 This will be tough to diagnose from afar. A pinched wire usually makes itself easily found, just follow the smoke, but not always. Anything else work when the key is off that shouldn't? The wiring on these cars is interconnected in such a way that something that you would think is unrelated can cause electrical gremlins. The door is open when the lights are on, do they go off with the door closed? Thinking it might be a ground or a fuse issue, power back feeding into an unrelated circuit, but the lights look to be too bright for that. I have some ground issues with my car but the lights are much dimmer and my car is a gauge car so the gauges do some strange things. Too cold here to do anything about that. Time for a wiring diagram and a test light and some poking around for stray power, a multi meter comes in handy also to check for voltage drop. I would start with anything that you unhooked when changing the starter and work from there. rotin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom71 Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 Noticed your fuel gauge is pegged at the 3 o'clock position. Is this a new problem? What causes this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 1 hour ago, tom71 said: Noticed your fuel gauge is pegged at the 3 o'clock position. Is this a new problem? What causes this? That's not a new problem Tom. Another thing I would love to fix. Rotin, the door sensors are good with the lights turning off when closed. the seat belt warning system buzzes away as soon as the key is I the ignition, even if I'm standing outside. Also not a new problem. I have a trickle charger on, maybe that's why the dash lights are so strong. I have the battery disconnected now in case of a short overheating something. Speaking of the battery, it was sparking more than usual when connecting / disconnecting the negative. Another sign of a short somewhere? Reading about short circuits, it seems like a 'short-to-power' type as it's powering something it shouldn't rather than blowing fuses. I have a multimeter and I can follow instructions, but I have to say I find wiring diagrams a bit intimidating! Nothing else was changed except the steering wheel, and I painted the air cleaner housing. The Haynes is suggesting a few options for the dieseling: Idle speed timing TCS idle stop solenoid thermac valve sticking I guess a short could play havoc with anything in the TCS system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 The TCS system should have anything to do with idle or dieseling. Found this on the google TCS=transmission controlled spark. This was a 1970 Emissions idea that was really B.S., the whole idea was give the engine advanced timing (via vacuum advance to the distributor) when it was only really needed, therefore reducing exhaust emissions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 I just shut mine off while it's still in gear. (Try the above first) I remove my TSC back in May of 1971. My brother in-law worked for Chevrolet and he suggested that I change it to direct ported vacuum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 Just a question.... How stiff is the operation of the key ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 Paul. I can't Diagnose when the water is hot in my tea kettle. But when i was going through my gremlins i was told to change the regulator. I did but had the same problems, so i was told to change it again. i did again and it did the trick. 2 new regulators. Not saying its going to work but it did for me thanks to the guys here. I was starting to pull my hair out, thank God i got to keep some. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 32 minutes ago, Scott S. said: Just a question.... How stiff is the operation of the key ?? Key is ok Scott, but I’m wondering if the battery-to-solenoid cable is installed too tight and is touching the other points. See photo. I thought the slot was the right way around but maybe I need to rotate it 180°? comparing it to this angle from professor google where it’s angled back towards the starter: A mechanic I am not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 Battery spark is usually caused by something on. They will all spark a little because of full time items the are always powered (clock etc). Also could be a shorted wire creating power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 1 hour ago, willie said: Paul. I can't Diagnose when the water is hot in my tea kettle. But when i was going through my gremlins i was told to change the regulator. I did but had the same problems, so i was told to change it again. i did again and it did the trick. 2 new regulators. Not saying its going to work but it did for me thanks to the guys here. I was starting to pull my hair out, thank God i got to keep some. Don’t get me started on voltage regulators. Ugh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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