Crom Cruach Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 I bought a set of Fel-Pro HS7733SH2 head gaskets thinking they are stock replacements, but they are .015” compressed. Can I use these for a straight head / valve cover gasket replacement or do I need to get stock thickness .039 gaskets? 350 sbc https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-HS7733SH2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 The .015 compressed gasket will give you a little bit of a compression bump. For a 72 350 the bump in power should be a plus. With the lower compression pistons and heads, valve interference should not happen. If you are worried, a little clay, silly putty, playdoo on the piston with the head installed, rotate the engine, remove the head and see where the valves hit and how thick it is in that area. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted July 21, 2022 Author Share Posted July 21, 2022 Thanks Tom. That’s what you call deck clearance is that right? Do you use gasket maker or anything to help attach the gaskets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 You are welcome. The felpro gaskets usually have a adhesion promoter on them. Are they blue? If bare metal, you could use a promoter of you like. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 Can I pull the heads without disconnecting the AC? I have it moved over to the side but it’s all connected and I’m not messing with it. I haven’t done this before. With everything else removed can I just remove the distributor, plugs, loosen exhaust manifold and drain the oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 It'll be no problem to swing the A/C out of the way. The exhaust manifolds, it depends if you'll have good access to the lower row of head bolts. Remove accordingly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Paul, I have to ask why you’re doing this? Based on other threads you’re having the engine pulled and rebuilt at the end of summer. I thought you wanted to drive it for now? Sorry just curious. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 18 minutes ago, Dtret said: Paul, I have to ask why you’re doing this? Based on other threads you’re having the engine pulled and rebuilt at the end of summer. I thought you wanted to drive it for now? Sorry just curious. Agreed, A couple more bolts & the engine is out..... Me personally, I hate doing things twice. Why waste the time, effort & money on the same parts that you'll be doing again in the near future? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Let’s see. You have 4 converter shield cover bolts (if it has it on) ,3 converter bolts, 6 transmission bolts ( block up the transmission so it doesn’t fall) and 2 motor mount bolts. Probably a few wires too. O ya probably has clamp on oil pan for transmission lines. So one more. Pull it and call this summer a bust. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 50 minutes ago, jft69z said: Agreed, A couple more bolts & the engine is out..... Me personally, I hate doing things twice. Why waste the time, effort & money on the same parts that you'll be doing again in the near future? Yea I have to agree I understand changing the water pump and I would hate putting ugly parts back on but if it's coming apart in a few months that's when I would do all the other stuff. Water pump only takes a couple hours and your back on the road. Just my opinion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 I also agree, you're this far why not pull it and rebuild it if that's what you want to do at the end of the year. While the engine is getting rebuilt you can freshen up the engine compartment. Just my opinion too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Boyte Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 38 minutes ago, Dtret said: Let’s see. You have 4 converter shield cover bolts (if it has it on) ,3 converter bolts, 6 transmission bolts ( block up the transmission so it doesn’t fall) and 2 motor mount bolts. Probably a few wires too. O ya probably has clamp on oil pan for transmission lines. So one more. Pull it and call this summer a bust. Great answer and suggestion !! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 Hi lads, so I'm weighing up my options. If the other post is option A, this post is option B, and I want to understand the steps (and cost) involved with each route before I decide the best way to go. Option A, I have to get her towed to the mechanic as is. So I need to keep her apart until I have all the rebuild parts I want. I need time to figure out what I want, and allow time for the order. I guess I need to save for it too!. Looking at a new cam, pistons, timing set, bearings, probably headers too. I'm just reading up on static vs dynamic compression. Want to get the most out of her while on e5 fuel (91 octane). It's a bigger project, might be further away than end of summer. Option B, if I can do the freeze plugs, head gaskets, and engine mounts myself while I have the engine apart, I can put it all together and send it to my mechanic for suspension work. Call it done for a year or two of driving with no leaks. I can live without performance enhancements for now. Worth noting I don't have an engine lift so I have to work on the engine in place. Pulling it = mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 I'll add my .02, might as well pull it and do everything you want now, and hope for no snowballs during the project. As to your other questions, I pulled my motor out with the a/c and power steering just pulled off to the side. I also disconnected the exhaust manifolds. Yes you can remove the dizzy and plugs too just cover the holes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Since you posted options while I was writing my post I'll have to drop back on some lol. Do what you can afford and enjoy the car while you save/shop/ order for the next steps. On another note, I don't know how (not saying it can't be done) you replace the motor mounts without and engine lift. I'm sure others will chime in with the options you mentioned 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 You have a master plan in your head for what you want to do. But I guess I’m missing the point of WHY you’re pulling the heads. Your just wasting time and money on parts that are going to get thrown away when the engine is rebuilt. The job of pulling the heads is relatively easy. Reassembly on the other hand is a bigger project. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 20 minutes ago, Dtret said: You have a master plan in your head for what you want to do. But I guess I’m missing the point of WHY you’re pulling the heads. Your just wasting time and money on parts that are going to get thrown away when the engine is rebuilt. The job of pulling the heads is relatively easy. Reassembly on the other hand is a bigger project. I hear ya. Slightly leaky gaskets is all. I figured while I’m this far in I might as well replace them. I’m thinking about it while I paint the frame. I might still just replace the two front freeze plugs and leave it there - start painting the block, leave the rest for next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 12 minutes ago, Crom Cruach said: I hear ya. Slightly leaky gaskets is all. I figured while I’m this far in I might as well replace them. I’m thinking about it while I paint the frame. I might still just replace the two front freeze plugs and leave it there - start painting the block, leave the rest for next year. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 A leaky valve cover or intake gasket I understand. Go ahead, your only out a few bucks. But not the heads. Do you have oil in the cooling system? Do you have antifreeze in the oil? If not leave the heads alone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 I agree with Dennis, mine had leaking valve cover gaskets and I put the stock intake back on when I bought my car. If you take the heads off the snowball starts rolling 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 Ok valve covers and intake, clean, paint, gasket, bolt back on, no fuss no muss? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 1 hour ago, 1970mcss said: I agree with Dennis, mine had leaking valve cover gaskets and I put the stock intake back on when I bought my car. If you take the heads off the snowball starts rolling Exactly.... Once you pull the heads, then there's rockers, rods and lifters to look at....... Then comes the cam. At that point, you might as well go all in and strip it down to the block and refresh everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Honestly I wouldn’t even do the intake if it’s not leaking. And even if it’s just seeping I don’t think I would do it. Knowing the engine is coming out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 Thanks for the clarity guys. According to the Haynes manual you can replace the engine mounts in place. I’ll find out soon enough. I enjoy taking it apart and learning how it works! Strong dislike scraping grime and scrubbing with brushes and paint stripper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 If the engine mounts aren’t broken I wouldn’t do them either. If they are absolutely. They are generally not a “ maintenance “ item. When you pull the engine out I would definitely put new ones on to get rid of the 50 year old rubber. Later when you pull the engine tear it down and put it back together and play with it and learn how it all works. Then send it off to the builder cuz he’s ( or she) is going to completely tear it down anyway for the rebuild. I do that stuff all the time. In fact I picked up a 1.4 turbo engine for my Cruze just for that purpose. It was free and has a blown head gasket. I missed getting a free engine for Karen’s Subaru by one day. Another learning project. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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