Rock Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Quote: Definitely something for me to look into, then... I get a nice steady drip from the mirror onto my seats when it rains >.< FYI, the seals he bought from Tamraz are for the side glass and trunk, not the windshield. Isn't your leak at the windshield? The windshield was installed without a soft rubber seal. You can reseal it. Read here. Dan Exactly.....not the front or rear glass seals. Side glass, doors, hood and trunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Hmmm... this seems like a poor plan for me to be doing... I'd be nervous as all get out that I'd break the windshield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Also finished up the motor for now. It runs great with the new electronic choke Edelbrock carb....went with the 1406 like someone mentioned from here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Thought I was looking at a shot form under my hood. Same style valve covers, air cleaner cover, red dist cap and wires and shiney headers but I do not have that vacuum ball on my AC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Thought I was looking at a shot form under my hood. Same style valve covers, air cleaner cover, red dist cap and wires and shiney headers but I do not have that vacuum ball on my AC. Great minds think a like! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 I have not been called a great mind since the last time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Where to start pulled my 70 out of the garage and parked it in the driveway in case we take somewhere. With the 70 out of the way we push the U code 72 off the trailer and into the garage. Body is still on our body cart We went ahead and tacked the back half frame in place got our wheel base set and the 33x22x16 tires in place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Thems some wide tires... dayum. They're not as tall as the biggest I've had to work with, but I think they're about 6-10 inches wider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black07ss Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Where to start pulled my 70 out of the garage and parked it in the driveway in case we take somewhere. With the 70 out of the way we push the U code 72 off the trailer and into the garage. Body is still on our body cart We went ahead and tacked the back half frame in place got our wheel base set and the 33x22x16 tires in place Getting there ERT. Looks like the rear axle is backwards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Shhhhh, you'll embarrass him >.> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 It's a lovely 9" ford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Finally started installing Power Door Locks, Power Windows! Everything removed from interior doors, doors removed and doors / jams drilled for boots installed and doors replaced. Door harnesses run through doors & thru kick panels. This is what I had done today. Tomorrow will remove dash cap and run wiring That connects both doors plus anything else I may be able to get started on with power window regulators and door locks. Doing this is sections. Focusing on the power windows and door locks first in doors. Once hooked up and operating, will move to rear quarter windows until operating. Last, moving to power bucket seat installation. It's a work in progress. Here is a sampling of what was accomplished today. So, what I feared would be the worst part is now done. Whats left I'm calling cake! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostnFound Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Good going Doug. From what I understand from the guy who installed mine, it is not for the faint of heart and is quite a large job and quite time consuming. You rock! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Yeah, I had been pretty apprehensive about this back when I first decided to do it right up to today. During that interim before I got started, had plenty of advise and good instruction, plus allowed me the time to gather everything I needed to start / complete job. Planning my attack beforehand to now anyway, made it so much more easier. Spent roughly 6 hours (3 1/2 hrs. on driver door and 1 1/2 hrs. on passenger. After the trial period on driver door, passenger went way smoother! Figured doing it in sections keeps everything in front of me reducing a lot of confusion. Thanks for the props. Again doing it in stages removes a bunch of intimidation. Hope to be completed in the next weeks as I will only work on it intermittently as I have other obligations. Main thing is shes still drivable after each step. I wonder what people would say if I drove her home this way! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Doug make sure you wear your seat belt when driveing around without the door Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Looking good, Doug. You definitely have one of the more intimidating phases of the project behind you. Doing the rear quarter windows is pretty straight forward but will take some time. In addition to removing the rear seat and interior, I couldn't figure out a way to install the wiring harness under the carpet without removing the driver's seat - not difficult, just time consuming. Are you planning to run additional power direct from your battery or will you be tapping into your stock fuse panel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Looking good, Doug. You definitely have one of the more intimidating phases of the project behind you. Are you planning to run additional power direct from your battery or will you be tapping into your stock fuse panel? Hi Dennis, At this point I am looking at using the fuse panel. Once I get the wiring harness routed for the front windows & door locks I will see if I can take advantage of an idea I have. I have one void circuit in the fuse panel next to emergency flasher and I have a stock fuse circuit to fill it that originally could have been found there. It will power all the windows, locks and power seat (at least that's the plan). Malibu 400 (Rainer) had it and gave me one from a donor car he had. Don't really have to go to all that additional effort but I've been pretty anal about keeping as much originality into it as practical. I am however going to go keyless with the locks and trunk release. That is one of the limited luxuries beyond circa that I will afford myself. I haven't figured out just how I'm going to route the harness inside / across doors yet to connect door leads. I have studied your pics and provides some insight. (I saw a blue wire not part of your harness) that looks like grounded with screw to door exterior and travels across/up rear of door and then runs into access panel and out of sight. Was curious what that wires function is. Was that part of your keyless entry? Also deliberating on the relay (where to affix it). These are all questions I might figure out today if time allows. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Hi, Doug, I don't mean to hi-jack this thread so we can take this off-line or to another thread if you want. I originally wanted to use the vacant main power port on my fuse panel but I could not locate a new or used breaker and lug like Rainer included with your set up. That is the factory-correct setup so you should be good to go. I'm not sure which photo you are referring to that shows a blue wire going to ground, but I did not have any keyless stuff when those photos were taken so it must be something else. Here's a photo showing both the factory power window and the factor power door lock harnesses being installed in the driver's door. The blue wire at the bottom goes from the master power window switch module (4 switches) to the driver's power window regulator just behind the door panel. The green wire runs from the power door lock switch to the solenoid in the bottom back edge of the door. Just route the wire along the natural contours of the door panel and tie them in place at several points and you should be fine. The factory location of the power window relay is inside the cowl sill just slightly below the hole you cut for the accordion grommet. NOTE: I did not remove the driver's kick panel but I did loosen it along the front edge for access to mount the relay to the cowl sill with a sheet metal screw. I can't imagine why GM chose that location for the relay as it is nearly inaccessible for replacement if it fails. If you have already re-hung your driver's do, I have no idea how you will ever mount the relay in the factory location unless you remove the kick panel. Following are a couple of photos that might help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Picked her up from the shop after work, and boy does she sound pretty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Brought the 4 jack stands up from my basement. Looks like I'll be hi-rising it this week for transmission removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Took mine out yesterday for about a 40 mile or so cruise after changing the plugs and a fresh tank full of ethanol free gas it ran great Then took my girl and her daughter and granddaughter out for dinner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Spent today routing wire harness over top of dash to connect both front door power window / door locks. Ran a power lead from engine compartment into cabin (not yet attached) and installed driver power window. Used external source to actuate window and it is quick! Tomorrow will install passenger side power window and hopefully have power door locks installed/operational. This will complete phase 1. Going to take a few days off to recover!! Still need to install power source in fuse panel and replace kick panels. Saving installing dash cap after (ALL 4) windows are installed and operational. Also front door panels still need modification for switches and replaced. Hey McFan, I figured out at least what seemed to work best for me and the pic shows how I routed driver door wiring. I'm guessing I'll have operational front door power windows & locks with power coming from fuse panel by Sunday at the outside. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VETTEWITHLEGS Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 got a few pics of the 71 body work....if I can figure out how to upload em! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VETTEWITHLEGS Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 LEGHOME, CAN U HEAr me now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Hear u loud and clear had to turn the hearing aid though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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