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Some cool stuff I got with the car as well...

You guys like pics so I’ll put a few that I have so far here. Thanks! 1972, Sequoia Green, painted top, 402/TH400, 3sp/console, bucket seats.

Wheels back from the powdercoater and tires back on. Love polished aluminum but hate polishing. They'll go back on after I get some other work done.

That's just an "old age" thing...... LOL

Hi Members, here are Gideons Car pictures that would not load for us. Great start Gideon and welcome to the group…! Darren

Its beautiful, but i dont hate it but i dislike it very, very much!!!!!

There’s more! I got two spare rally wheels, another driver side remote mirror with the toggle and cable, 4 chrome rims, service manuals, assembly manuals, even the Fisher Body manual for 1972!

Welcome! Nice car. Also nice to see the other goodies that came with the car as well. 😎

Welcome aboard. Should be able to do donuts like the others have said. Also should be able to perform the famous straight line "one wheel peel", lol.

Welcome, very nice Monte

Welcome!! … beautiful ride and nice that you’ve got all the pertinent documentation for pedigree purposes. PS - yes you CAN do doughnuts with a one tire fire (ask me how I know).

Welcome to the madness, and another Green Monte and some nice paperwork

That’s some awesome sh.. right there. Well done.

That’s kinda what I was thinking but I didn’t mic the inner diameters; just eyeballed it. I still have the original. Original bushings too, actually. I’ll take it all apart and put the original back in, with old bushings and then new just for giggles, see if that does any better. If it is then I’ll see if I can dip and paint the original pedal.

Good Deal!! rob

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It’s starting to be bad feelings. Hmmmm 🤔

There are a lot of good ideas here. Just because all of the parts look new does not always equal that they are good, it just looks like they are new. If the booster is new the finish looks odd, usually they are plated rather than black. The booster would be my first pick. Scott mentions the push rod which is a possibility but I thought if it was the wrong length I would think it may different symptoms. I would also not rule out proper bleeding of the brakes. I thought air in the line would create spongy pedal. I was wondering if maybe collapsed or clogged lines. Have you taken it out onto a road that is gravel covered and done some braking and look at the skid marks to see if all 4 tires are locking/dragging gravel. If you have brakes not locking it may indicate bad brake line pressure or bad calipers etc. Bottom line, don't trust things that look new. We all know that nobody has ever received a bad part or two... or even three rob

Wow, Dennis has been left speechless a lot lately. Not necessarily a bad thing, just an observation on my part. rob

Not a first but possibly a first for you. Stupid banana.

That's pretty sloppy. Either the hole in the new pedal is bigger than the original, or the new bushing is not sized as the original possibly?. Doesn't appear to be a lateral 'sliding', side to side problem that a shim would correct, though it may help limit the swing. Looks more like it's 'sloppy' in the hole. (I'm sure Dennis' head is going to explode over that line..🤣) Do you have the old pedal available to see if it works better, or was it replaced due to damage, missing, etc?

Based on the 3510 part number, that’s the same number that most all aftermarket ( rebuilt) starters use got that model. That part number works on most small and big blocks for a lot of years. Same thing my 71 used.

The brake pedal doesn't use a return spring.... The release of hydraulic pressure returns it. That way you can tell if your brake system is failing by the amount of push on the pedal.

Check the inside diameter of the original vs. new one. I’ll bet it’s off. I think that’s to much movement. But may not hurt anything as long as it’s all locked together.

Vinyl top is peeling so it’s coming off anyway. I agree full quarter on drivers side and possibly patch passenger side. Double ditto frame issue first. Everything depends on that being right. Still very doable.

Had a similar problem with mine when I tightened the solenoid wires the one terminal broke and turned a little bit inside shorting it our internally in the solenoid I replaced it and it was fine after. I don't remember the lights being on but that was a few years back.

i guess we've all been there with "this ones too long/this ones too short"---but those pics-it doesn't get any better than than that super nice routing!!

Did you replace with a standard GM starter or a mini-starter? Also do you have an electric fan on the radiator? rotin

Yes RIP Dr Johnny Fever!!!

I saw that show when I was a kid. Loved it. Head of The Class was good too. ”Booger!!”

I agree. Come on down and enjoy the fun.

John, Living in York, we need to get you to attend the Eastern Meet in Carlisle this coming June. With almost 50 members already registered with me it will be a fantastic meet to attend. rob

Plug & Play Mark Those ones are US DOT legal. They have another version that's Euro spec, maybe that's what you are thinking about. Here are the parts numbers from the Hella site. If it says 'ECE' they're the euro spec. https://myhellalights.com/product/vision-plus-7-round-conversion-headlamp/ The yellow highlighted part number is what I bought. The first one on the list is a 'Kit' of 2 ECE lamps, the last part number is a single ECE lamp.

A little update on my progress all this has been done in the last year or so. new package tray and filler panel and right window channel, trunk cut out and new panel fitted , two new NOS fenders bought one for 350 the other for 275 you can find good deals if you look. and new cowl hood

I added my '70 to the existing policy ( Intact home/auto) and my rates are $125.00/year. After the June 2020 hailstorm, they wrote her off, and after some quick dealings, they wound up giving me $14,000.00 and let me keep her. That was more than enough to get all the damage plug the pre-existing bodywork repaired. Now I just need to get a new appraisal to verify her value.

To what Dtret mentioned, the fuel pump and rod must be removed, moved also. On a big block the oil pan does not have to be touched and the radiator must be removed. A small block cam will just barley come out with the radiator in place. The big block is 2 inches longer than a small block and that length is in the front of the block. That is why a big block fan shroud is shorter than the small block. Was told the camshaft would be a pain? Why? I know you don't mean swapping it out.

First of all hello back. The two engines (454) will be pretty much the same. There is no timing belt. It’s a chain and gears. Cam can be changed in car. Pull fan shroud ( probably the only advantage of the wasted space under the hood) and possibly the radiator. But my question is why are you doing that? Please post reasons for cam change. That’s not an easy job. Intake manifold, valve covers, rockers and lifters, water pump,harmonic balancer, possibly the oil pan, timing cover all have to come off. And then there is the little stuff.

Rest In Peace Howard Hessman who plated Dr Johnny Fever on WKRP in Cincinnati. Thanks for all the laughs! rob