72RustBucket Posted January 26, 2022 Share Posted January 26, 2022 Hey everyone! It's been awhile, working a lot of overtime so not much headway on the monte except stacking new parts lol. I'm working on installing new drivers quarter panel and outer wheel well. I have the well tacked in, apparently in the exact spot it should be according to my lines and measurements. Been fiddling with the new quarter and I think I've got it as good as it will get. All the gaps along the trunk, tail light extensions, rear window, well lip, rocker panel are good. They are all straight, even, and match the other side which is still factory. The gap between the quarter and door however is larger than it should be. It's not a ton but enough to notice. I'll get pics up when I'm at the shop tomorrow. The doors were removed to replace hinge pins but the hinges were never moved so there shouldn't be an issue with the doors Any advice? There really doesn't seem like there is any more that I can push the panel forward without possibly damaging/warping it, and it doesn't appear like anything is catching. I'm thinking I may need to weld a bead on the new quarter to make the gap look better. I know this is fairly common but I wasn't sure if anyone else had a similar issue with AMD full quarters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted January 26, 2022 Share Posted January 26, 2022 Need to see pics. I would also suggest adding weld to the door edge as opposed to the quarter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72RustBucket Posted January 26, 2022 Author Share Posted January 26, 2022 I was thinking I wouldn't want to do anything to the door as it's original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie Posted January 26, 2022 Share Posted January 26, 2022 I am not a body guy. But i agree with Tom, do the door. I think you would notice the 1/4 alot faster than the door. My $.02 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared Richey Posted January 26, 2022 Share Posted January 26, 2022 Please show me what you are dealing with here 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsorg Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 i am not a body man either , but was told a long time ago that the quarter and door gap is the starting point when doing any panel replacement,door, fender ,hood etc body work ,good luck,roger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotinrob Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 What's the gap/offset like at the front of the rocker panel? Might be able to move the door and still make the front work. If not I recommend adding to the door much easier than adding to the door jam. rotin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rancid87 Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 I agree. If you need to add material add it to the door edge. Some pictures would definitely help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72RustBucket Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 Thank you everyone, and apologies for lack of pictures. Maintenance on the truck ran into some snags on my days off, so I never got to the monte. I'll get some up this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72RustBucket Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 I need more clamps, but that's near the best I can get it by myself at the moment. I also don't have the door striker in its exact spot, so not sure how much that affects things. Passenger side for reference, as it is still factory. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 I'd put jack stands under the front and rear wheel locations instead of where you have them. Even though it's a full frame car, it'll still flex/sag and cause possible panel alignment problems. I see it on the lift all the time with car/trucks, sometimes to the point the doors won't open properly. Without door strikers, front fenders/inner wheel house tightened down completely, or panels welded in, it compounds problems. Whenever I hang sheetmetal, I'll make sure to put the stands under the front lower control arms near the ball joints, and at the rear axle tubes. If there's no front suspension at the time, I'll still support it where the wheel centerlines would be located. Not to be a dick, but cinder blocks aren't typically considered safe to lift vehicles. That being said, some bargain offshore jack stands aren't safe either, as I seem to remember there was a recall or warning about some of them not too long ago. Just hate to see someone get hurt if they crumbled and crushed you or some body parts (human parts that is, metal can be fixed). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 I am NOT a body man but if the door and fender are not set how are you checking for panel gaps? Also agree with Joe on the lifting positions but with the dirt floor I wouldn’t use jack stands either ( they sink and through frame positions off. I would opt for 2 ft long 6x6 or 8x8 wood cribbing and then shim it to a level position. If the frame isn’t straight nothing will be. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 5 minutes ago, Dtret said: wouldn’t use jack stands either ( they sink and through frame positions off. I'd just put steel plates or something under the jack stands. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72RustBucket Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 6 hours ago, Dtret said: I am NOT a body man but if the door and fender are not set how are you checking for panel gaps? Also agree with Joe on the lifting positions but with the dirt floor I wouldn’t use jack stands either ( they sink and through frame positions off. I would opt for 2 ft long 6x6 or 8x8 wood cribbing and then shim it to a level position. If the frame isn’t straight nothing will be. Well the fenders should be ignored for the moment. They are literally just hanging there, mostly unsecured so they will be out of my way. 7 hours ago, jft69z said: I'd put jack stands under the front and rear wheel locations instead of where you have them. Even though it's a full frame car, it'll still flex/sag and cause possible panel alignment problems. I see it on the lift all the time with car/trucks, sometimes to the point the doors won't open properly. Without door strikers, front fenders/inner wheel house tightened down completely, or panels welded in, it compounds problems. Whenever I hang sheetmetal, I'll make sure to put the stands under the front lower control arms near the ball joints, and at the rear axle tubes. If there's no front suspension at the time, I'll still support it where the wheel centerlines would be located. Will do. I was getting mixed results on where to support the car, using suspension makes sense because thats how you will be seeing the car i guess. I have the wheels off for some cleaning/ polishing and possibly new tires, but work etc has gotten away from me and i havent gotten around to finishing them up. The car was leveled when put on the blocks. 7 hours ago, jft69z said: Not to be a dick, but cinder blocks aren't typically considered safe to lift vehicles. That being said, some bargain offshore jack stands aren't safe either, as I seem to remember there was a recall or warning about some of them not too long ago. Just hate to see someone get hurt if they crumbled and crushed you or some body parts (human parts that is, metal can be fixed). Not being a dick at all! If it makes you feel any better, i don't really get under it at all in its current state. Also, the blocks are actually BECAUSE of that recall! I had a set from harbor and stopped using them due to the recall, and im not sure how much i trust the old set we have around, so blocks seemed like a save alternative for the time being. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 Basically you want the frame to be like it was sitting on the tires, so it's stressed like it would be on the ground. I can see how much a frame sags when raising the lift, especially with an engine in there & no fenders to tie it together. You'd be surprised how much those frames flex. If those quarters are off right from the start because of that, you're basically screwed because everything forward of that is based on those quarters being correct. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rancid87 Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 I keep the wheels/tires on while fitting body panels and I make sure to align the fenders and install the hood and trunk lid before I finalize anything. It looks pretty good though for just being mocked up. Not sure if you replaced body mount bushings yet but I'd make sure to replace those now. If you are looking for dime gaps adding material to the door edge would be the way to go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72RustBucket Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 3 hours ago, jft69z said: Basically you want the frame to be like it was sitting on the tires, so it's stressed like it would be on the ground. I can see how much a frame sags when raising the lift, especially with an engine in there & no fenders to tie it together. You'd be surprised how much those frames flex. If those quarters are off right from the start because of that, you're basically screwed because everything forward of that is based on those quarters being correct. Thank you! That is the main reason for the post. I don't want to put any welds on until i know it is exactly where i want it. I dont even want to use any sheet metal screws until i know i can basically get it where it is supposed to be with clamps. 2 hours ago, Rancid87 said: I keep the wheels/tires on while fitting body panels and I make sure to align the fenders and install the hood and trunk lid before I finalize anything. It looks pretty good though for just being mocked up. Not sure if you replaced body mount bushings yet but I'd make sure to replace those now. If you are looking for dime gaps adding material to the door edge would be the way to go. The body mounts are all new. I'll be putting the wheels and tires on soon to see if that changes anything. I have the trunk lid half installed. I'm an idiot an didnt properly install it before removing the old quarter, so it is on, but it isnt shimmed or tightened or positioned, but it still works to show how things can/will line up. The fenders need to be reworked, so that is why they are barely secured...i i figured its the best place for them until i rework them. I haven't put the hood on because the engine will be swapped again but the end weight shouldnt change too much. Ill get some more pics up after i get it back under its own weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 If you have a Fisher Body Manual, it has the specs for the door, fender gaps etc. I posted a link to it somewhere around here, if you don't have one, let me know. EDIT: Check this post here, there's a link to one: Even more stuff here: https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/23286-nosreplacement-washer-squirter-nozzles/#comment-218877 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared Richey Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 Put it on the wheels 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
714024SPEED Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 I agree put the wheels back on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72RustBucket Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 Wheels back on. It helped, but I think the quarter still sits maybe 1/8 - 1/4 inch higher than the door. This may be because I don't have screws or anything holding quarter down inside the door. Possibly could move door striker a hair to bring door up? I'm very close... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 Is the lower door gap even with the rocker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72RustBucket Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 On 2/14/2022 at 8:34 PM, MC1of80 said: Is the lower door gap even with the rocker? It seems to be by eye balling, but ill have to take a feeler gauge to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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