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Oil change 350SB


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Well in the next few weeks I was going to do an oil change on the MC and was just wanting to see what type of oil filter and oil everyone was using or preferred I was wanting to use Pennzoil 10w30 SAE but still trying to decide . All comments and suggestions will be appreciated. 
 

Thanks Wes

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I have a NOS AC Delco filter that I bought and will use that.  10W-30 

With a fresh oil change you should drive it up to our Eastern Meet in Carlisle PA this June,  76 members already registered with me to attend

 

rob

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With flat tappet cam engines it is recommended that you use a an oil with at least 1000 ppm ZDDP.  If you use ZDDP additives, be careful not to ad too much. Most oil designed for new cars has reduced ZDDP to protect the catalytic converters. Check with the manufacturer of your oil to verify the amount of ZDDP. 

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I use the Mobil 1 (M1-302) filters (Wix are good too), after cutting a bunch of them open. 

Any of the Delco's with an 'E' after them ex. PF-48E, are not made as good as they used to be, before FRAM took them over. 

The Mobil 1's are still of the same build quality as the original ones made by Champ Labs.

Some pics of various filters:

oil filters cut apart 

 

That being said, not sure about some of the Delco's out there now in the PF35 variety (larger, truck style capacity). I just ordered the ones below and will cut them open.

PF35

PF35 classic

PF1218

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14 minutes ago, MC1of80 said:

Rotella and wix

I recently read an article about Rotella. Said the diesel oil specs have changed a lot lately and may not be the best for what we do.

 

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I tried one of the K&N oil filters...... But didn't really see any difference than the filters that cost half as much. Giving Fram a try this go round. 

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42 minutes ago, Scott S. said:

. Giving Fram a try this go round. 

Most of the Frams are built like a kindergarten art project.

 

Original (good GM with metal endcaps) on left, newer Delco made by fram (middle) and fram on right.

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1 hour ago, cny first gen 71 said:

I've used frams before, wix, k&n Purolator, napa gold never seen much of a difference but I only put about 1000 miles a year. Last year don't think I did that because I couldn't walk to the car.

K&N, Mobil1, and the original AC Delcos (no longer available) are all good ones, made by Champ labs. The AC Delco, UPF48R line (black, for newer Corvettes, trucks) are still good quality too.

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Great question. I just bought some 10W-30 oil from O'Reilly and a K&N filter from Advance auto parts

I found it hard to locate a place that even sells regular oil, all now are synthetic and with 167,000 miles on my 71 engine I am too scared to switch.

 

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I have been using Castrol GTX 10W40 and the larger capacity AC Delco filters for 27 years and 80,000 miles (132,000 miles total on the car). I just had the engine rebuilt over the winter. The cam was heavily worn but the rest of the engine looked really good. He said to simply keep doing what I'm doing but he does prefer the Napa Gold filters.

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23 minutes ago, Paul D Valle said:

Correction: BradPenn 15W40

That's what I use.

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15 hours ago, MC1of80 said:

Rotella and wix

Though this isn't the article I was referring to, it has much the same info regarding diesel oil, and also standalone zinc additives as well. Keep in mind, these are oil company experts answering the questions.  The link, and a few pertinent excerpts:

https://classicmotorsports.com/articles/ask-oil-expert-industry-specialists-set-record-str/

 

EDIT: This may be the article I was thinking about, but I know there is one more out there regarding 'break-in' oils, and they also address diesel oil and standalone additives, but it's not in web form yet.(Hemmings Muscle Machines-January 2024 edition):

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/diesel-oil-in-gasoline-engine/

 

 

Q. A lot of people recommend diesel oils for older gasoline engines. Is this good advice? Why or why not?

  • A. The diesel oil recommendation most likely started when API reduced the amount of zinc in gasoline engine oils. Diesel oils contain higher amounts of zinc, so this is why people use them in gasoline engines.

Another potential factor is the wider viscosity selection of diesel oils. If your classic requires a 15W-40 oil, for example, it’s going to be hard to find a gasoline engine oil in that viscosity.

Diesel-specific engine oils are designed to help remove the soot and other byproducts of running diesel fuel–a greater amount than gasoline produces. Therefore, diesel oils usually contain a higher concentration of certain detergents to clean the internals better. Usually this is a good thing. However, the detergents can be so effective that they remove part of the oil film from the cylinder walls, and that can mean quicker wear.

There are other reasons why people use diesel oils in gasoline engines, but none of them are, in my opinion, valid. Modern, high-quality gasoline engine oils are much better at protecting the engine than any diesel oil will ever be.

STEFAN BRAUN
Application specialist
Liqui Moly

  • A. That diesel recommendation comes from the days when diesel oils contained more ZDDP than gasoline engine oils. Today’s API CK-4 diesel spec allows oils to be the same ZDDP level as a gasoline car oil, so the “advantage” of diesel oils has been eliminated.

LAKE SPEED JR. 
Certified lubrication specialist
Driven Racing Oil

 

 

 

Q. Which is better for my original, older engine and why: conventional oil or synthetic? And which one leaks less? And what if that older engine has been recently rebuilt?

  • A. As long as your engine is mechanically sound, a motor oil isn’t going to cause leaks–whether it’s conventional or synthetic. If it’s leak-free and in good shape, use a synthetic oil to provide maximum protection. The same goes for healthy rebuilt engines.

If your engine is older and does leak, the problem could be seals and gaskets that have become brittle or worn. Even if the engine doesn’t leak, those seals could still be in poor condition. Sometimes sludge builds up enough to effectively prevent oil from slipping past deteriorated seals or gaskets. 

Using a high-quality synthetic oil with good detergency can dissolve that sludge and reveal the true condition of the seals, causing leaks. If you suspect your engine falls into this category, we recommend sticking with a conventional oil.

LEN GROOM
Technical product manager
Amsoil

  • A. In most cases, classic engines that have been using conventional oil for several years should stay with conventional oil. The seals get accustomed to the lubricant, and big changes (like switching from conventional to synthetic) can cause them to leak. For rarely driven cars, the risk is not worth the reward, so just stick with conventional oil. Now, if the engine is getting rebuilt, then you can go with synthetic (and then stay with synthetic) after the breaking-in process.

LAKE SPEED JR. 
Certified lubrication specialist
Driven Racing Oil

 

 

 

Q. How much zinc does my older engine need?

  • A. It depends on the engine’s make, model and vintage as well as its purpose–is it for racing or just the occasional trip around town?

Modern engine oils are formulated to be backward-compatible with older stock gasoline engines. However, plenty of modified older engines are out there with flat tappets and aggressive performance cams. For these souped-up old-timers, a higher-zinc oil (like some racing oils) might be prudent. Defer to OEM recommendations for stock engines and to the engine builder’s recommendations for modified engines.

VALVOLINE TECHNOLOGY TEAM
Compiled by Josh Frederick
OEM technical manager

  • A. I recommend above 1200 ppm if it has a flat-tappet cam and lifters.

MANUEL A. GUTIÉRREZ
Director of marketing
Lucas Oil

 

Q. Do you recommend using a zinc additive in older engines?

  • A. Engine oils are a very precise balance of additive components and base oil(s) that work in harmony to provide the desired lubrication. The introduction of any type of additional additive disrupts this formulation synergy–like jamming an extra piece in a puzzle that’s already complete. This change in harmony can have a negative effect on the performance of the oil, not to mention change its identity.

Bottom line: Additional aftermarket additives are not needed. Frankly, if an end user relies on an additive to change some aspect of their oil’s performance, then they’re using the wrong oil.

KENNETH M. TYGER
Director of Technical Services Penn Grade
PennGrade1
Lubricants

  • A. We never recommend using aftermarket oil additives. Engine oils are designed with a fine balance of base oils and additives designed to work holistically to provide optimal protection and performance. A properly formulated oil for the intended application doesn’t require aftermarket additives to provide good protection. In fact, adding aftermarket additives can disrupt the oil formulation and reduce protection.

LEN GROOM
Technical product manager
Amsoil

  • A. No! If your oil needs an additive to properly protect your engine, then you need a different oil.

LAKE SPEED JR. 
Certified lubrication specialist
Driven Racing Oil

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I agree. I’ve never been a fan of using additives in anything. Just use the product that’s was designed for that specific purpose. My opinion but I’ve always thought that additives were like an easy way out. 

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13 minutes ago, Dtret said:

I agree. I’ve never been a fan of using additives in anything. Just use the product that’s was designed for that specific purpose. My opinion but I’ve always thought that additives were like an easy way out. 

And chemically, the additives may not play nice with what you're adding it to, as a couple of the articles state.

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I liken it to the medical profession. The dr. prescribes medication for an issue, but that medication creates side effects so they prescribe another medication. Next thing you know you have the medication box with the days of the week and all the slots are full. 

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I have 3 pill boxes! 😁

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4 hours ago, Paul D Valle said:

BradPenn 10w40

Zinc is in the oil

Wix 51061

 

 

I didn't even know Brad Pitt made motor oil.............  Oh, never mind, you said Brad Penn

rob

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2 hours ago, Dtret said:

I liken it to the medical profession. The dr. prescribes medication for an issue, but that medication creates side effects so they prescribe another medication. Next thing you know you have the medication box with the days of the week and all the slots are full. 

Get used to that my friend, the older you get the more Dr's you have to see. Since I retired it's seems like I have at least one or two dr appointments every week and a handful of pills to take a day.

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10 minutes ago, cny first gen 71 said:

Get used to that my friend, the older you get the more Dr's you have to see. Since I retired it's seems like I have at least one or two dr appointments every week and a handful of pills to take a day.

I’m not that close to retirement, even though my body says differently. I do know that my time is coming. I just don’t want to face that reality yet. 

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