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It makes no difference if you are a dues paying member or not, your comments are taken the same. As far as deleting the entire thread, I am not sure why. Nobody is saying to do anything that is not legal. As a matter of fact the post about the guy will make you a VIN tag indicated that person will not even touch it without seeing a clear title for the car. Unless I am missing something I did not see anything that was of concern. rob

Hello to all the First Gen fans out there! Been visiting here for years and finally joined. Started by looking around for cars to purchase and fell in love with all the knowledgeable info and fans like me.

I had a 454 74 Monte Carlo, 3-76's 5-77's a 78 and a 79. Still love the 70-72's the best.

I liken it to the medical profession. The dr. prescribes medication for an issue, but that medication creates side effects so they prescribe another medication. Next thing you know you have the medication box with the days of the week and all the slots are full.

Though this isn't the article I was referring to, it has much the same info regarding diesel oil, and also standalone zinc additives as well. Keep in mind, these are oil company experts answering the questions. The link, and a few pertinent excerpts: https://classicmotorsports.com/articles/ask-oil-expert-industry-specialists-set-record-str/ EDIT: This may be the article I was thinking about, but I know there is one more out there regarding 'break-in' oils, and they also address diesel oil and standalone additives, but it's not in web form yet.(Hemmings Muscle Machines-January 2024 edition): https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/diesel-oil-in-gasoline-engine/ Q. A lot of people recommend diesel oils for older gasoline engines. Is this good advice? Why or why not? A. The diesel oil recommendation most likely started when API reduced the amount of zinc in gasoline engine oils. Diesel oils contain higher amounts of zinc, so this is why people use them in gasoline engines. Another potential factor is the wider viscosity selection of diesel oils. If your classic requires a 15W-40 oil, for example, it’s going to be hard to find a gasoline engine oil in that viscosity. Diesel-specific engine oils are designed to help remove the soot and other byproducts of running diesel fuel–a greater amount than gasoline produces. Therefore, diesel oils usually contain a higher concentration of certain detergents to clean the internals better. Usually this is a good thing. However, the detergents can be so effective that they remove part of the oil film from the cylinder walls, and that can mean quicker wear. There are other reasons why people use diesel oils in gasoline engines, but none of them are, in my opinion, valid. Modern, high-quality gasoline engine oils are much better at protecting the engine than any diesel oil will ever be. STEFAN BRAUN Application specialist Liqui Moly A. That diesel recommendation comes from the days when diesel oils contained more ZDDP than gasoline engine oils. Today’s API CK-4 diesel spec allows oils to be the same ZDDP level as a gasoline car oil, so the “advantage” of diesel oils has been eliminated. LAKE SPEED JR. Certified lubrication specialist Driven Racing Oil Q. Which is better for my original, older engine and why: conventional oil or synthetic? And which one leaks less? And what if that older engine has been recently rebuilt? A. As long as your engine is mechanically sound, a motor oil isn’t going to cause leaks–whether it’s conventional or synthetic. If it’s leak-free and in good shape, use a synthetic oil to provide maximum protection. The same goes for healthy rebuilt engines. If your engine is older and does leak, the problem could be seals and gaskets that have become brittle or worn. Even if the engine doesn’t leak, those seals could still be in poor condition. Sometimes sludge builds up enough to effectively prevent oil from slipping past deteriorated seals or gaskets. Using a high-quality synthetic oil with good detergency can dissolve that sludge and reveal the true condition of the seals, causing leaks. If you suspect your engine falls into this category, we recommend sticking with a conventional oil. LEN GROOM Technical product manager Amsoil A. In most cases, classic engines that have been using conventional oil for several years should stay with conventional oil. The seals get accustomed to the lubricant, and big changes (like switching from conventional to synthetic) can cause them to leak. For rarely driven cars, the risk is not worth the reward, so just stick with conventional oil. Now, if the engine is getting rebuilt, then you can go with synthetic (and then stay with synthetic) after the breaking-in process. LAKE SPEED JR. Certified lubrication specialist Driven Racing Oil Q. How much zinc does my older engine need? A. It depends on the engine’s make, model and vintage as well as its purpose–is it for racing or just the occasional trip around town? Modern engine oils are formulated to be backward-compatible with older stock gasoline engines. However, plenty of modified older engines are out there with flat tappets and aggressive performance cams. For these souped-up old-timers, a higher-zinc oil (like some racing oils) might be prudent. Defer to OEM recommendations for stock engines and to the engine builder’s recommendations for modified engines. VALVOLINE TECHNOLOGY TEAM Compiled by Josh Frederick OEM technical manager A. I recommend above 1200 ppm if it has a flat-tappet cam and lifters. MANUEL A. GUTIÉRREZ Director of marketing Lucas Oil Q. Do you recommend using a zinc additive in older engines? A. Engine oils are a very precise balance of additive components and base oil(s) that work in harmony to provide the desired lubrication. The introduction of any type of additional additive disrupts this formulation synergy–like jamming an extra piece in a puzzle that’s already complete. This change in harmony can have a negative effect on the performance of the oil, not to mention change its identity. Bottom line: Additional aftermarket additives are not needed. Frankly, if an end user relies on an additive to change some aspect of their oil’s performance, then they’re using the wrong oil. KENNETH M. TYGER Director of Technical Services Penn Grade PennGrade1 Lubricants A. We never recommend using aftermarket oil additives. Engine oils are designed with a fine balance of base oils and additives designed to work holistically to provide optimal protection and performance. A properly formulated oil for the intended application doesn’t require aftermarket additives to provide good protection. In fact, adding aftermarket additives can disrupt the oil formulation and reduce protection. LEN GROOM Technical product manager Amsoil A. No! If your oil needs an additive to properly protect your engine, then you need a different oil. LAKE SPEED JR. Certified lubrication specialist Driven Racing Oil

Rotella and wix

I have a NOS AC Delco filter that I bought and will use that. 10W-30 With a fresh oil change you should drive it up to our Eastern Meet in Carlisle PA this June, 76 members already registered with me to attend rob

One of the best cars I ever owned, after driving a 68 falcon, 67 vw bug, and a 62 dodge dart, this car was like driving a dream car . Even tho I prefer the first generation now, I alway liked the 4 headlight system.. someone has an 77 and brought it to the 2022 Carlisle meet. Was in excellent condition.. 77 was my favorite second gen… Monte…

On big Red I used a 9" booster from inline tube. I also, like Joe have a vacuum pump hidden under the front of the driver's fender, behind the windshield washer reservoir for extra brake boost. Don't know if I actually need it but from past builds, l just added it.

Opinions always matter, member or non- member. That’s why we are here.

I have been using Castrol GTX 10W40 and the larger capacity AC Delco filters for 27 years and 80,000 miles (132,000 miles total on the car). I just had the engine rebuilt over the winter. The cam was heavily worn but the rest of the engine looked really good. He said to simply keep doing what I'm doing but he does prefer the Napa Gold filters.

Here's my all original '72 402 that I found by luck one day searching the web. It came with some trophies in the trunk from late 80s and early 90s. Think whoever had it must of parked soon after because it could use some TLC.

Nah... I considered putting on a metal repair clinic under the club tent, to provide the type of thing that Carlisle said the Fiero people did better than us a couple years ago (poor excuse at best). But, it'll probably be 90o out there, so that's not happening... 🤷‍♂️ 😄 Plus, it'll cut into my nap time under the tent....

Most of the Frams are built like a kindergarten art project. Original (good GM with metal endcaps) on left, newer Delco made by fram (middle) and fram on right.

I've gotten the BBC into the car now. Now I cannot get my drivers side valve cover on because the brake booster is in the way. I have to run spacers under the cover(1/2") as to not hit the roller rocker arms (Comp.Cams Ultra roller tip rockers & poly locks). I see some of you have a 9" Diameter booster. What brand and /or where did you purchase it . I see InlineTube sells a 9" booster. I have already bought the disc/disc brake master cylinder I'm going to install next.

It has been a long road. As the saying goes when you have the time you don't have the money and when you have the money you don't have the time. Many things in life have happened in life during the restoration, some good and some bad. The good news is I sure hope to have it on the road by the time the salt has been washed away and I am able to put some miles on it and have the confidence to drive it to the 2024 Eastern meet.

The sun has finally made an appearance, and already the snow's melting !!!

Hey Steve, all opinions are welcome. I had a friend years ago that lost his newly purchased car because it had been stolen in another province and shuffled through the system. It took about a month after he bought it (privately) for the paperwork to catch up, and when it did, all he could do was say goodbye to both the car and the money he spent. That's why I'm curious as to my situation...

Here is another shot. I have 1/2" spacers with a factory stock valve cover.

I'm thinking that this will be the last of Mother Nature turning on the snow for us here in upstate NY.Even though it was a less than eventful ( around here anyway), I just hope it gets better from here. Maybe moving motorcycles from my trailer to the garage will give me some hope.😊

I had a 76 Cutlass S. Those GM colonnade cars drove very nice. Mine had the upgraded suspension.

Ac Delco oil filter Lucas hot rod oil with zinc

I’m not that close to retirement, even though my body says differently. I do know that my time is coming. I just don’t want to face that reality yet.

Get used to that my friend, the older you get the more Dr's you have to see. Since I retired it's seems like I have at least one or two dr appointments every week and a handful of pills to take a day.

I had a 77 back in my teens. Loved the ride of that boat.

You may need to consider an electronic vacuum pump too. I use the Leeds one on my Monte and Camaro, happy with it so far.

Welcome to the FGMCC!. Nice car !. Another non black interior we can add to the list …

Welcome !! Great looking Monte

I agree. I’ve never been a fan of using additives in anything. Just use the product that’s was designed for that specific purpose. My opinion but I’ve always thought that additives were like an easy way out.

Correction: BradPenn 15W40

Just talked to my brother again ender up with 19 inches but he got his snowblower fixed at least. He had to build a piece on his lathe to do it but got it done. Nice having a machine shop in your garage and the knowhow to use it.

I feel bad for you guys with the snow! Glad its only raining down here!!!

Include the mandatory adult beverages, and you might just get what you are looking for !!!

Hi Steve, 2" and 25 in Cleveland this morning. I'm hoping for a spring coming in like a lion and out like a lamb!

Great question. I just bought some 10W-30 oil from O'Reilly and a K&N filter from Advance auto parts I found it hard to locate a place that even sells regular oil, all now are synthetic and with 167,000 miles on my 71 engine I am too scared to switch.

They only show up on Jegs site, that I can see. The other available ones are completely different (look like junk), with NO holes or stamped relief on the bottom edge. Maybe it's their own product. If so, good on them for tooling up something with a limited audience/return on investment..

I use the Mobil 1 (M1-302) filters (Wix are good too), after cutting a bunch of them open. Any of the Delco's with an 'E' after them ex. PF-48E, are not made as good as they used to be, before FRAM took them over. The Mobil 1's are still of the same build quality as the original ones made by Champ Labs. Some pics of various filters: oil filters cut apart That being said, not sure about some of the Delco's out there now in the PF35 variety (larger, truck style capacity). I just ordered the ones below and will cut them open. PF35 PF35 classic PF1218

20's in VA this am, low 50's during the day. I'm over it already 🙃

I worked at an Olds dealer after GM school in the early 70s when they changed the body style of the cutlass in 73 I did like the new style but I've always liked the cutlass line.

I'd love 46, it was 19 here this morning and going all the way up to 30 something today but supposed to warm up a little more as the week goes on.

Rob or Joe maybe you could move this over to members only section.

Why don't you pick up the plastic 72 grill too, and bring it to Carlisle, so we can all see what type of quality it is...

The other ones that Joe said look like junk are just that. Leo said junk but usable with a ton of work. Not only that but that’s all that was available anywhere on the internet. It should also be noted that nobody has them anyway. This was the first time I’ve ever seen these one from Jegs. I can compare it to the one Leo sent me also. Just possibly more junk to set around. 😬 And a waste of money. We shall see. I’m not a body guy anyway so will it really matter. Maybe I’ll bring them to Carlisle anyway so everyone can have a good laugh. 😂

K&N, Mobil1, and the original AC Delcos (no longer available) are all good ones, made by Champ labs. The AC Delco, UPF48R line (black, for newer Corvettes, trucks) are still good quality too.

Hmmm..... Let 20 Monte fanatics tear Montelishi apart.......???? Are you sure you don't work for border security ????

Yes, the assembly plant codes should match. The rivet on your VIN tag doesn't look original. Dan

If the transmission was not giving you any signs like slipping or any other weird things I would start at the linkage hopefully the clip fell off or something simple like that. I would also find a new mechanic one that doesn't use the terms "it does not click". Good luck.

Sorry guys. I am looking to potentially purchase this rechromed bumper for $400. It's from a shop that closed down 5 years ago. They are selling all of their stock on hand. This is their last Monte Carlo bumper. The first picture is of the back of the bumper and the second is the front. The lady I spoke with who is selling everything on behalf of the old shop owner told me that what I'm seeing is residue from the process and can be scuffed off. I'd like some opinions on what you all think. P.S. I still have my original bumper but it has a minor ding in it also my back bumper has a dent and tear in it too. I've heard so many bad stories about aftermarket bumpers that I thought that it would be better to stick with the original.

Hard to say which is hardest to come by. rob

NOT trashing Vicky Glen.......but if ya had a cooler work vehicle and it was a bow tie (yea I'm partial to suburbans) you could try too