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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/24/2024 in all areas
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Look at the vac line going to the transmission modulator. You may have pulled it off when redoing the lines.7 points
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I wonder if we can find the real owner of that internet pictured car, and maybe get him to be a club member...6 points
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I guess it may be time to start to figure out where "Big Red" is and see what, if anything she may need after a LONG winters nap. 🤔6 points
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6 points
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Bilsteins arrived. Found a coupon for a few extra bucks off. Saved $100 buying them in the BMR kit from Jegs.5 points
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5 points
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Sure is a pretty car. To bad I’ll never see it in person. 😆😆😆5 points
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4 points
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In 54 days and a wake-up our first members will start arriving in Carlisle for our 2024 Eastern Meet.4 points
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First… welcome, Kevin! It’s a great group of people here, you will have no problem getting advice as you progress through your work. Willie, I’m late to the party on the cups you’re talking about. I saw the chatter about them in the other thread got distracted before I could respond. I didn’t think anything of them as both of my cars have them. I purchased a new set for when I had the interior redone on the ‘70, but the shop that did the install didn’t attach them to the new console (maybe they didn’t want to drill holes into a brand new piece?). Never inquired with the trim shop and just left the belts on the floor when not in use for now. Here’s a couple pics of the interior of the ‘70 as it arrived as well as a couple pictures of the cups in the ‘71. When the better half rides with me I make her go seatbelt-less and I use the passenger side cups for my smokes and garage door opener 🤣😂 (Kidding)3 points
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I'm still looking into the side marker ones, so don't order anything just yet. The tail light numbers are good though. It says this number below is for the rear side markers, but I'm trying to confirm it with the assembly manual: https://www.amkproducts.com/search-result/?ser=g-4228 EDIT: For the front markers, your assembly manual will be page 12C-3, items 2 & 3. Those numbers look good for the G-4201 kit. I don't believe them in regards to the rear, I think just using the same type screws as the front markers will work fine (B-12152) So, I'd either order 2 of the G-4201 ($3.50 each), or get some bulk kits, with all the fasteners, and some left over. J-nuts (8 of them - $4): https://www.amkproducts.com/bulk-fasteners-products/?Product_ID=12245 Screws (12 of them - $4): https://www.amkproducts.com/search-result/?ser=B-12152 Realistically though, NAPA would have J-nuts that work, plus some #8 screws. Would be a lot cheaper once you figure in shipping.3 points
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AMK will have all that stuff. Side Marker: https://www.amkproducts.com/search-result/?ser=G-4201 Tail lamp bezels (includes screws and nylon nuts : https://www.amkproducts.com/search-result/?ser=G-42043 points
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Welcome Kevin. A couple days ago I was cruising around Facebook and seen your pictures. It didn’t take you long to tear in to it. Looks like a pretty nice car to rebuild or restore. You have started the process of getting involved with, in my opinion, the best Monte group. A great bunch of Monte heads here. You have questions, we are all here to help. Good luck on your project and hope to see you on the site often.3 points
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3 points
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Nope, all my Monte pic's are mine . Its easier to keep the story straight if your the only one telling it 🤣2 points
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2 points
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I'm surprised you didn't ask for a title, official, not a copy 🤣 If it weren't for Glen I'd probably be called the photoshop king 🤣 Not a dis Glen, you do some great work 🤘2 points
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I am betting when he does bring her we will ck the insurance card, should have his name and the correct vin on it! Right Mark????? lol2 points
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After looking at my old harness, it appears that the power for that switch goes thru the Radio/TCS Solenoid 10 Amp fuse, thru the power bulkhead in the engine compartment, and then to a short pigtail harness that goes thru a hole in the firewall to the Accelerator switch. From there, it would go to the transmission mounted switch. Dave and I were on the phone a few times and were both using multimeters at the same time, on our perspective harnesses, figuring out the circuit, lol. He doesn't appear to have power coming thru the engine side wire, which could be as simple as a poor connection at the bulkhead mating halves, or as bad as a broken wire. He tried to move the bulkhead connection a bit, but its location, plus it being bolted together produced no favorable results. We decided, If later attempts to re-seat the bulkhead don't work, a short jumper from a switched fuse block stab will work to power up the circuit. None of the diagrams or manuals I have showed that accelerator pedal switch.2 points
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2 points
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Welcome to the club Kevin. I see yours has the gauge package and tach. Is it by chance an SS? There is plenty of help here for any questions or problems you may have.2 points
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Did you ever notice... on so many of the Facebook groups dedicated to the First Generation Monte Carlo how many Scam Ads and Knock -Off T-Shirt ads they have. If yes, have you also noticed that don't see much of that here on the FGMCC site or even the Facebook group that Aaron (Canuck) manages. That is because of the screening process we use here when someone wants access to post on the site. Even if some of them do get through it is almost always quickly noticed by our moderators and admins and those posts are quickly removed and the poster banned from the site. We rarely have members scammed on items posted for sale here and we rarely have to remove posts or ban people from posting. This is a very safe place to come to for your needs. rob1 point
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Its in the safe 🤣 Registration and Ins will have to do I'll pull the plates of just so there will always be some questions 🤣1 point
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But, did Glen provide you with a photo shopped photo? rob1 point
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On my car it used the same screws front and back, but the rear markers used nylon nuts similar to the tail light bezels. I believe they were a different size than anything that I had from the front or rear light hardware kits, I can see if I still have the package this weekend. I just measured the holes and did some measuring at Napa until I found the right one.1 point
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You can weld them with nickel rod, but you need to take steps to prevent cracking (preheat, etc).1 point
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Mark they are starting early this year!!! However she looks Great!!!1 point
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Welcome aboard the FGMCC boards, we hope you like what you see here and become a full fledged dues paying member of the club. rob1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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He's a decent guy too we talked to him one year, nice guy. I've always enjoyed talking to Candy Clark too.1 point
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Dennis it's impossible to repay everyone for the banana stuff, you really earned that yourself!!!! lol And we Love you for it!!!1 point
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1 point
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Yes I was. I am the Judge Of Elections at our polling place so I had to be up very early this morning. rob1 point
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1 point
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The 55 Chevy was the first year of the Tri-five Chevrolet series. Fifty-Five, 55 and Double-Nickles all have the same meaning. That reminds me, we are now only 55 days and a wake-up away from our first members arriving in Carlisle to kick off our 2024 Eastern Meet. rob1 point
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1 point
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Ron, you should know better than to pay up front, especially cold one payments. rob1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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Wow, Gene Winfield going strong at 96. I love it !!! Being around custom cars, car shows and automotive events keeps him young. He has been customizing cars since the mid 60’s. Come meet this customization auto legend at the Syracuse Nationals !!!1 point
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Gene Winfield will be a guest again and giving out his award. I had no idea he was 96 and still going strong.1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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Hi Thomas, The th400 has a 32 spline output shaft whereas the th350, 200r4, and 700r4 all have 27 splines.... so you'll have to change the transmission end of your driveshaft no matter which one you choose. The 200r4, which is the one I went with, is pretty much a bolt in, excepting for moving the cross member back. (350 cid/th350) and trimming the balance weight at the transmission end. The th400 cross member is different and the transmission is a couple inches longer, so you will have to find/build a new driveshaft. I've also read that there's minor clearance issues using the th400. Personally, I like the 200r4 for the wider gear ratios (0.67 to 1 overdrive and 2.67 to 1 first gear) for highway driving. But if you choose the 200r4, make sure you get it rebuilt with heavy duty internals..... 400 hp is a lot for the original "off the shelf" units where as the th400 could take that kind of hp. As for the rear gears, 3.55 should make a nice street/highway combination.... Montelishi originally had 2.73's, which are really nice on the open road, but a little lagging at the stoplight. I eventually went to the 3.42's. Still a little slow at the light, but I've pulled around 20 mpg on the highway with them. There are a few threads here that discuss who likes which better, I'm sure more will weigh in eventually. Good Luck with your swap, Scott.1 point
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Help ! I've broken my Driver's side exhaust manifold for my BBC and need another one to replace it. I had them all set to go in and then it dropped from the hanger I had on it prior to painting it. Great,Just Great, fell on the last manifold bolt hole at the rear of manifold and broke off. I doubt there's a way to fix it and be able to use it. Does anyone have an "extra" ? All I can find online are passenger side. What really gets me is they were "curing" for the last 9 days with said hangers and no problems. 1 step forward ,2 steps back. On the good side, new driveshaft is ready to be installed.0 points
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0 points