New '70 Monte Owner

[NavyCPO]

Hello Everyone!  I just purchased a True Survivor '70 Monte Carlo from the estate of a man who purchased the car directly off of the production line when he worked at the Van Nuys CA factory.  It's been Garage kept it's entire life and is in Very Good Condition and has been kept completely all original.  350 2bbl car w/8.2 rear.  Not sure of the gears yet but I'm assuming they are probably 3.08. 

 

Anyway, I am on the fence about making any changes to the car.  I have HEI distributor sitting in my shop along with an aftermarket 4 bbl intake and carb.  If I keep everything else original on the car but make a few modifications like headers, HEI, 4bbl intake and carb would I be ruining it!  Or, would it still be considered original as long as I still have the numbers matching engine and drive train components? 

 

Also the A/C is not working and the person I bought it from told me that it needed a compressor clutch.  Now, I'm not sure but I thought that if you can not turn the front of the compressor clutch, that it was an indication that the compressor itself was locked up, but I don't recall for sure as I'm no AC expert.  I don't know if a bad clutch can be binding up keeping me from turning it or if it's actually a bad compressor.  Help here?

Edited April 17, 2023 by NavyCPO
spelling

[jft69z]

1 hour ago, NavyCPO said:

Also the A/C is now working and the person I bought it from told me that it needed a compressor clutch. 

Welcome to the club Wilbur!

Not sure if that was a mistake. as far as the condition of your A/C. I'm guessing it should have said 'not'? 

First place I'd check is to see if you actually have 12 volts at the connector for the compressor clutch when calling for A/C. If so, is it pulling the clutch in at all? Typically, you should be able to turn the compressor by hand, but its been so long since I played with an old A6 compressor, I'm not sure how tight they are. If the clutch worked, and the compressor was locked up, I'm thinking your belt would be smoking pretty quickly. See if you have 12 volts first, then go from there.

As far as the other stuff, my general feeling is it's your car, your choice as to how you want to modify it. Keep all the original parts, maybe don't drill too many holes in places, and enjoy it.

My latest Monte was a numbers matching, heavily optioned car, those drivetrain parts are now off to the side in storage with better stuff in its place. I'll be long dead before I care if someone complains the car isn't all original, when it gets sold or transferred to whomever.

[DragCat]

Welcome to the madness ...As been already said, your car, do what you want to it. You could post a few pictures of your new Monte and we will be happy to help you spend money on upgrades or original parts 🤣

Theres a great group of members here on the forums, lots of knowledge and experience. 

And thank you for your service 

[Scott S.]

Welcome to the insanity !!! lol

As Joe said, It's your car and what you choose to do is a personal preference.  

That being said, depending on how you intend to enjoy her will also have a bearing on your choice of modifications. 

4bbl, intake and headers MAY make you want to consider upgrading the heads and cam to..... Adding all that air/fuel flow will get restricted if the valves aren't big enough to let it into the cylinders. Just a thought. 

As for the HEI, It's a more powerful system that requires less maintenance. 

The 8.2" differential is the basic rear end, and might not take a lot of hard driving. But again, that would depend on how you plan to treat it.

But if you're keeping all the original parts anyways..... I'm pretty sure no one's going to give you grief over a few upgrades.

[Dtret]

Welcome to the group. Build it to your liking. But remember you can’t call it original anymore. Lol. 

[MC1of80]

Welcome Wilbur! Pics!

[cny first gen 71]

[Glen]

Welcome, Wilbur. Lotsa good people here with a bunch of knowledge. 
 

[willie]

Welcome Wilbur!!!  Like everyone says, its yours do what you like but keep all original parts. You can always throw them back on.  Great club here, plenty of knowledge with willingness to help!!  

[Canuck]

Welcome! This is a great group here.

I say build it how you want. The car isn’t rare or of significant value so you won’t hurt it with those modifications.

The 10 bolt rear is most likely a 2.73 ratio. If you find the resources section of our web site you will find several pages to help decode your car.

[Gregs70]

Welcome, lets see some pictures 

[Whons]

Welcome, I own a 1970 Monte that's had a lot of modifications. I'm not big in the matching numbers thing. I would build it the way you want it.

[sbarnette]

Welcome! You’ve found the best place for information and help on your First Gen Monte Carlo. Looking forward to following your progress! 

[NavyCPO]

21 hours ago, jft69z said:

Welcome to the club Wilbur!

Not sure if that was a mistake. as far as the condition of your A/C. I'm guessing it should have said 'not'? 

First place I'd check is to see if you actually have 12 volts at the connector for the compressor clutch when calling for A/C. If so, is it pulling the clutch in at all? Typically, you should be able to turn the compressor by hand, but its been so long since I played with an old A6 compressor, I'm not sure how tight they are. If the clutch worked, and the compressor was locked up, I'm thinking your belt would be smoking pretty quickly. See if you have 12 volts first, then go from there.

As far as the other stuff, my general feeling is it's your car, your choice as to how you want to modify it. Keep all the original parts, maybe don't drill too many holes in places, and enjoy it.

My latest Monte was a numbers matching, heavily optioned car, those drivetrain parts are now off to the side in storage with better stuff in its place. I'll be long dead before I care if someone complains the car isn't all original, when it gets sold or transferred to whomever.

Yes you are correct, I meant to type "NOT" instead of NOW.  I did read the 12 Volts to the low pressure switch on the reciever dryer and it was present.  I then tried to jump the connector (hoping that it would engage the compressor clutch and that it was just low on freon, but not so lucky) but it still did not kick in the compressor clutch, and it doesn't move at all.  I then read the wire going from the low pressure switch to the compressor and it was also good so the 12 VDC is definitely making it to the clutch coil.  I took a couple of screw drivers and was able to force the clutch to turn but it was extremely tight.  I shot some WD-40 between and around the clutch assy in hopes that if it were frozen up it would free itself and at least attempt to start working, but nada.  I am thinking of going ahead and replacing the clutch assy and if it still won't work then I think I can order a compressor without the clutch and use the new one that I'm trying.  Haven't done it yet but thinking that may be a plan.  Also I have heard in the past that if you put a new compressor on a car that you should also start with a new Receiver/Dryer?  Any experience with that?  I don't know if you really need to do that or not.  Thanks for your input!

[NavyCPO]

19 hours ago, DragCat said:

Welcome to the madness ...As been already said, your car, do what you want to it. You could post a few pictures of your new Monte and we will be happy to help you spend money on upgrades or original parts 🤣

Theres a great group of members here on the forums, lots of knowledge and experience. 

And thank you for your service 

Cool, a fellow Navy Veteran!  Thank you for your service as well! And thanks for your input!

[NavyCPO]

Thank you all for your cordial welcome aboard!  I appreciate your inputs!  I'm already working on the car i.e. new shocks, plugs, thermostat, looking at brakes, etc. but I will post some pic's of my girl soon.  Again, thank you for the great responses!

[jft69z]

11 minutes ago, NavyCPO said:

 Also I have heard in the past that if you put a new compressor on a car that you should also start with a new Receiver/Dryer?  Any experience with that?  I don't know if you really need to do that or not.  Thanks for your input!

So, after you jumped the low pressure switch, you got a measured 12 volts there at the clutch coil (if I read that correct)? If so, with the compressor still turning very tight, that may still be a problem (stupid question, but I have to ask so please don't be offended --there is no fan belt on at this time?). You could also just jump 12 volts directly to the clutch coil (with a fused jumper wire) to make sure, if I misunderstood.

As far as the receiver/dryer. Depends on a couple of things. If the system currently has a refrigerant charge of some sort and has not been exposed to ambient air/moisture, that's a good thing. If you need to replace the compressor anyways though, well....now would be a good time to replace it, but it probably wouldn't be as critical as if the system had been opened up for a long time. 

[NavyCPO]

10 hours ago, jft69z said:

So, after you jumped the low pressure switch, you got a measured 12 volts there at the clutch coil (if I read that correct)? If so, with the compressor still turning very tight, that may still be a problem (stupid question, but I have to ask so please don't be offended --there is no fan belt on at this time?). You could also just jump 12 volts directly to the clutch coil (with a fused jumper wire) to make sure, if I misunderstood.

As far as the receiver/dryer. Depends on a couple of things. If the system currently has a refrigerant charge of some sort and has not been exposed to ambient air/moisture, that's a good thing. If you need to replace the compressor anyways though, well....now would be a good time to replace it, but it probably wouldn't be as critical as if the system had been opened up for a long time. 

First Dumb mistake.  Yes the AC belt was on.  DUH.  I thought the front of the clutch was supposed to turn even with the belt on, but I'm glad you asked the question because now I know.  Like I said, I'm not an AC guy.  I've owned several classic cars in my life, 1st Gen '68 Camaro w/540 Big Block, '67 Lemans, 71 Nova, 76 Corvette (worst car I ever owned, couldn't give me another one!), 63 Ford Pickup, 68 Mustang.  Most of them did not have A/C.  I'll double check the Compressor in a few days.  right now I'm going through some of the basics, new thermostat, (so I know where I'm starting from), new valve cover gaskets to stop some oil seepage, and man I mean to tell you, it's been a long time since I changed V/C gaskets on something with so many accy's the drivers side was a real bear to get the cover off, remove A/C bracket, remove brake booster line and you know that thing had been on there for 53 years WD40 helped finally get that off, thought I was in the clear then the Bracket for the booster line was in the way too and had to bend that bad boy out of the way, gonna be a bear to go back on too I think.  Passenger side was a piece of cake, as it should be! Next comes new shocks front and rear, fix power steering leak, not sure where that's coming from yet but I have 2 brand new p/s lines ready to go on if it's not the pump.  I have new front wheel bearings and races coming and new pads.  Again, I like to know where I'm starting from, haven't looked at the rotors yet.  Tomorrow she'll be coming off the ground for my first REAL look underneath.  I have never seen a Chevy 350 with a Metal Plate between the carb and the intake either but that thing sure does get in the way!!!!  LOL  Must be a 350 2bbl thing.  I had a '70 Impala and don't recall it having that but it was the 300hp 350 4bbl.  Oh yea, I also owned a '68 Impala and a 71 El Camino.  Thanks for your help and input Joe!

[NavyCPO]

These are the only pics I have of the car right now and these were at Dusk when she first arrived at her new home in McAlester, OK on April 11th 2023.  White vinyl top (it's more cream colored but it may be due to aging, but body tag says white) but in perfect condition and not a bubble anywhere in it.  Car has been garaged it's entire life and completely unmolested "SO FAR"..............

Edited April 17, 2023 by NavyCPO

[Glen]

She looks great, Wilbur. Looks to be an early build car as she’s got the halo vinyl top and chrome molding strips under the headlights. What’s the trim tag say?

And if you absolutely feel the need to molest her, may I suggest the removal of the pin striping on the fenders and quarters 🤢🤮 (unless of course it’s some RPO I’m unaware of - in that case, leave it!). 

And since she’s Van Nuys built, pop that rest seat out and look for that Build Sheet.

Keep us posted! 

[jft69z]

3 hours ago, NavyCPO said:

 Yes the AC belt was on. I thought the front of the clutch was supposed to turn even with the belt on, 

Technically, even with the belt on, the clutch should turn when no a/c clutch is called for. The pulley itself should freewheel, then spin the compressor when the clutch actually pulls in to lock it into engagement. I was just thinking if the compressor shaft was indeed frozen, and the clutch didn't have power and then suddenly you do get the clutch working with a jumper, it could smoke the belt, etc. Better safe than sorry.

Those old compressors were known to take a lot of horsepower to run, as opposed to the new style Sandens, which can easily be turned by hand. If you can get it to turn by hand that's a good thing (but you did say it was extremely tight when using a couple of screwdrivers for leverage).

You can use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of the clutch coil as a quick test too. Something like 4 or 5 ohms would suggest the coil is good, if it's completely open, it's bad.

[Montemedic]

Welcome Wilbur to the best Club and place for First Generation Monte Carlo info. Thank you for your service too !!! 

[willie]

Congrats Wilbur, she looks Great!!!   As far as the pin strip goes, i would bet that's painted on, not tape. A little harder to get off.

[Vaughn]

Welcome, congrats on the nice Monte!!

[NavyCPO]

22 hours ago, jft69z said:

Technically, even with the belt on, the clutch should turn when no a/c clutch is called for. The pulley itself should freewheel, then spin the compressor when the clutch actually pulls in to lock it into engagement. I was just thinking if the compressor shaft was indeed frozen, and the clutch didn't have power and then suddenly you do get the clutch working with a jumper, it could smoke the belt, etc. Better safe than sorry.

Those old compressors were known to take a lot of horsepower to run, as opposed to the new style Sandens, which can easily be turned by hand. If you can get it to turn by hand that's a good thing (but you did say it was extremely tight when using a couple of screwdrivers for leverage).

You can use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of the clutch coil as a quick test too. Something like 4 or 5 ohms would suggest the coil is good, if it's completely open, it's bad.

I took the belt off this evening and the pulley spins freely, but the clutch will hardly budge.  I can get it to move about an inch or so.  I shot some WD 40 into it last night in hopes it might free it up, but it's still extremely tight.  I'm at a loss as to whether just try a new clutch and hope the compressor is not froze up or if the clutch is hard to turn means the compressor is bad too.  The disc seems to have some slack in it so I don't think the clutch is pulled in, but I'm not sure.  The belt was on and the car runs fine with the belt on, I guess the pulley is spinning freely like it's supposed to.  The car has a replacement compressor on it so someone has already changed the compressor on it at least once.  It has a 4 seasons compressor on it.